- Sun Jan 21, 2024 10:53 pm
#66810
Starting this new forum thread to detail my experiences and recommendations for those who would consider such a project. My "getting to the road" thread is at; viewtopic.php?t=6153
The changes I have made are specific to my requirements/wants. Using the OEM connectors does not change the original wiring and will allow a person to revert back to OEM status. OEM pinout is as per original.
The major changes are the new Hall Effect sensors. A person would have to reinstall the VR crank and cam shaft sensors if going back to OEM configuration. The fuel injector wiring is OEM configuration. The COP units would have to be removed and the original coils installed, OEM wiring is unchanged. There has been some wiring additions and these could stay or be removed, otherwise all is the same.
Recommendations going forward:
Keep the 8/1 dual wheel configuration, remove crank and cam shaft VR sensors and install Hall Effect sensors in lieu of, keep the original coils and spark units. The OEM spark units are an unknown commodity but can be experimented with to use. The fuel injectors can be used as well. Can change the coil driver to one such as the Bosch 211 if wanting an upgrade and the data for this coil driver is well documented. Most GW EFI conversions do not use the CFI system spark units.
The engine timing needs to be looked at. The new ECU will do engine timing in degrees whereas Honda does it with match marks on the engine flywheel, and camshaft timing belt pulleys and covers. I would recommend installing an engine case timing pointer in the timing belt area, and mark the crankshaft trigger wheel for #1 cylinder TDC before starting this upgrade. I would use the new engine timing mod to determine the engine timing when at idle and at 3000 RPM. This will allow for a more educated guess when it comes to developing the spark table in the tuning software.
This would make initial TA easier to locate than using the engine case timing port that requires a timing port cover. The location of the the engine timing port is also an inconvenience because it is situated towards the middle of the engine under the frame, behind the fuel system and whatever is located in the way. The flywheel timing marks get covered in oil and this makes seeing the flywheel timing mark(s) more difficult.
The OEM fuel system can be utilized as can the FP. The fuel injectors are low impedance and you need to keep the OEM resistor unit. These fuel injectors are 315 cc/min (rated at 3 Bar/43 PSI) and the OEM CFI fuel system pressure is at 36 PSI static (key on - engine not started), and 28 to 32 PSI dynamic (key on engine started). The fuel system pressures need to be factored into the initial engine tuning software setup.
The passive IAC system used in the Honda CFI system works well with the Speeduino ECU, no need for a stepper motor.
The PB sensors (MAP) can be used if needs be. One can be used for MAP and the other for a baro sensor. Most new ECUs that are DIY have an on board MAP sensor that can be used instead.
The OEM CFI system wiring remains the same and allows for a reversion back to the OEM configuration.
Changes to sequential fuel/ignition, COP units, Hall Effect sensors, and other items sort of evolved over time and have worked.
Engine vacuum connections need to be rationalized. The 4 vacuum connections for MAP need to be consolidated for use.
Interface board connection to the OEM system needs attention. Where is it going, what is the enclosure going to be, and pin setup for sensors. Using Hall Effect sensors eliminates the need for a VR signal conditioning board. The interface board has the requisite pull-up resistor installed.
Having mentioned the above, an upgrade to the CFI ECU and components is only as extensive as a person wants. The KISS principle was mentioned early on in my project, but I kept going.
The information in this post is more than needed to answer @PSIG query. It's a dreary day, good time for some reflection.
More to follow.
The changes I have made are specific to my requirements/wants. Using the OEM connectors does not change the original wiring and will allow a person to revert back to OEM status. OEM pinout is as per original.
The major changes are the new Hall Effect sensors. A person would have to reinstall the VR crank and cam shaft sensors if going back to OEM configuration. The fuel injector wiring is OEM configuration. The COP units would have to be removed and the original coils installed, OEM wiring is unchanged. There has been some wiring additions and these could stay or be removed, otherwise all is the same.
Recommendations going forward:
Keep the 8/1 dual wheel configuration, remove crank and cam shaft VR sensors and install Hall Effect sensors in lieu of, keep the original coils and spark units. The OEM spark units are an unknown commodity but can be experimented with to use. The fuel injectors can be used as well. Can change the coil driver to one such as the Bosch 211 if wanting an upgrade and the data for this coil driver is well documented. Most GW EFI conversions do not use the CFI system spark units.
The engine timing needs to be looked at. The new ECU will do engine timing in degrees whereas Honda does it with match marks on the engine flywheel, and camshaft timing belt pulleys and covers. I would recommend installing an engine case timing pointer in the timing belt area, and mark the crankshaft trigger wheel for #1 cylinder TDC before starting this upgrade. I would use the new engine timing mod to determine the engine timing when at idle and at 3000 RPM. This will allow for a more educated guess when it comes to developing the spark table in the tuning software.
This would make initial TA easier to locate than using the engine case timing port that requires a timing port cover. The location of the the engine timing port is also an inconvenience because it is situated towards the middle of the engine under the frame, behind the fuel system and whatever is located in the way. The flywheel timing marks get covered in oil and this makes seeing the flywheel timing mark(s) more difficult.
The OEM fuel system can be utilized as can the FP. The fuel injectors are low impedance and you need to keep the OEM resistor unit. These fuel injectors are 315 cc/min (rated at 3 Bar/43 PSI) and the OEM CFI fuel system pressure is at 36 PSI static (key on - engine not started), and 28 to 32 PSI dynamic (key on engine started). The fuel system pressures need to be factored into the initial engine tuning software setup.
The passive IAC system used in the Honda CFI system works well with the Speeduino ECU, no need for a stepper motor.
The PB sensors (MAP) can be used if needs be. One can be used for MAP and the other for a baro sensor. Most new ECUs that are DIY have an on board MAP sensor that can be used instead.
The OEM CFI system wiring remains the same and allows for a reversion back to the OEM configuration.
Changes to sequential fuel/ignition, COP units, Hall Effect sensors, and other items sort of evolved over time and have worked.
Engine vacuum connections need to be rationalized. The 4 vacuum connections for MAP need to be consolidated for use.
Interface board connection to the OEM system needs attention. Where is it going, what is the enclosure going to be, and pin setup for sensors. Using Hall Effect sensors eliminates the need for a VR signal conditioning board. The interface board has the requisite pull-up resistor installed.
Having mentioned the above, an upgrade to the CFI ECU and components is only as extensive as a person wants. The KISS principle was mentioned early on in my project, but I kept going.
The information in this post is more than needed to answer @PSIG query. It's a dreary day, good time for some reflection.
More to follow.
Ernest Nash
Victoria BC
"Resistance is Futile"
"This is not a motorcycle project, it's my retirement career"
Victoria BC
"Resistance is Futile"
"This is not a motorcycle project, it's my retirement career"
- By Logicaluk
- By PSIG