[Zipdrive]

I agree with your process. Similar approach to what I've done in the past. I placed as many "good" guesses into tuner studio as I could. I was not sure if there was a known "good" base map I could start from, as I was not having success over the weekend and Monday.

Turns out that after spending some time today I found the culprit, bad connection to the coil. Woomp, woomp.

Got the motor to start with a few stabs of the throttle. Does not stay lit, but thats o.k. for right now. Tomorrow, hunt down air leaks, as baro was measuring same as outside, and get a stable idle.

Thank you to all for help and encouragement.

[TxBxSx]

That’s awesome! Congrats!

So you were still able to get spark through the bad coil connection?

[Zipdrive]

I was testing spark by pulling the wire off the center point of the distributor and adding a spark plug, shorting it to the A/C. Doing this "pulled" on the coil as it is not attached to the motor, but held by gravity. This put the temporary wires in the "right" spot, but would pull the connection after I put the coil wire back on the distributor. Things were rigged to see if I could get it to work. Now I need to go back and add real connectors and make a better harness. Well, after I get it to idle properly.

[Zipdrive]

Update for the week.

Trigger angle is -6, as per the injector timing schematic previously shown and the needed value to start the motor! MOPAR diagrammed it interestingly in my opinion.

The throttle plate does have an adjustment stop for min open. The screw is located with a 1/4" gap to the intake manifold and upside down, i.e. not accessible unless the tb is pulled each time. A pair of popsicle stick chunks and duct tape remedied the problem.

First real start settings (a number of tries to get it to stay lit before this, all previous were 3 to 15 sec runs.)
* IAC connector unplugged
* tb at 12% open by popsicle sticks
* Trigger timing, -6 deg
* O2 disabled
* Timing on the ign map set at 8 deg (Map 20 to 60 kPa, rpms 600 to 1400)
* VE originally around 50 (Map 20 to 60 kPa, rpms 600 to 1400)
I did get it to fire and stay lit. Warmed the engine up, with very rough running. Idling around 1200ish rpms. Changed the VE once it got warm (H20 ~170) down to the low 30s. Keep lowering the VE, and it died. It ran for a good 3 mins.

Tried to re-start with the throttle at 6% open to bring down the rpms closer to the 650 rpm base, no success. It was getting late, and after 10 hrs working on it. I needed to step away. I need to clean up some of the wiring and add some connectors vs flying leads with a bare socket hanging there. Its way to janky.

[PSIG]

Trigger angle is -6, …

Did you confirm the table timing matches the actual timing with a timing light?

Changed the VE once it got warm (H20 ~170) down to the low 30s. Keep lowering the VE, and it died.

Once fully warmed, adjust the VE until you find minimum MAP. It is usually a fairly wide range, and many like to set it a hair on the rich side of minimum MAP for initial tuning, then tweak it later.

[Zipdrive]

Well... update for the week if you can call it that.

Chasing no start or hard start conditions. Could not get the timing light to flash. Unplugged the coil from the center of the cap, crank test, and sometimes spark.

Log composite logger. Please see pic and or attached file. It is showing a lot of no-sync. Super frustrating.

One thing I read somewhere was to change the voltage on the input from 5V (what I am currently using) to 12V. I think that the chrysler sensor might use 8V nominally.

* Does anyone think I'll burn out the sensor with 12V?
* Can I use the 12V right off the ECU board?
* What else to look for? I have tied all the grounds (ECU and wiring harness) to a single point.

I think that once this issue is resolved, it will run / start no problem. But, I am racking my head on this one.

[jonbill]

@zipdrive I think you may be struggling with the wrong code.
You have to be running pr #931 for this 4cyl engine.
https://github.com/noisymime/speeduino/pull/931
You can't run any released version of speeduino because this decoder hasn't been merged.
When you have the right build, I think you will find that triggerAngle is greyed out and you don't need to set it.

[Mr_Hypnotic]

@zipdrive I think you may be struggling with the wrong code.
You have to be running pr #931 for this 4cyl engine.
https://github.com/noisymime/speeduino/pull/931
You can't run any released version of speeduino because this decoder hasn't been merged.
When you have the right build, I think you will find that triggerAngle is greyed out and you don't need to set it.

I believe this is the 4.0L 6 cyclinder engine. Would that advice still apply?

[jonbill]

Ah, no, it might not I may have misremembered the history of all this!
So... What engine/trigger pattern are we talking about ? And which software build? I thought the sequential capability that Jared added was for 4 cyl, but either way, if that sequential capability is the goal then I think PR 931 is needed.

[jonbill]

OK, so I think I went off on the wrong tangent. Sorry
@zipdrive - are you simply trying to run the existing Jeep 2000 decoder, with paired injection / wasted spark?
Jared Sellers work on the 4 cylinder engine isn't involved.
I think he was right that triggerAngle shouldn't be used on these decoders. Since it *is* used in the Jeep 2000 decoder, I think it should be set at 0. I think this is because the crank angles are fixed (and defined in the code) in the relationship between the crank teeth and the cam tooth with the sensors in their stock position. If you moved the sensors you might want to vary triggerAngle but otherwise not. I think the presence of the triggerAngle in this decoder is just a carry over from whatever decoder the original author cloned to get started.

The Jeep 2000 decoder also has carried over the trigger filtering logic, but that logic is dependent on teeth being evenly sized/spaced - which isn't true here. as @nickz found viewtopic.php?t=4602 turning on any level of filtering breaks the decoder.