Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
#62874
Paolo Ponzano wrote: Sat May 06, 2023 6:56 amBut, if it wasn’t fast enough, wouldn’t it give problem at high rpm instead?
Correct, and all sensors have a maximum signal speed (Hertz) that must stay within max crank speed x tooth count. That said, the most common issues are instead related to sensor aperture (how many or enough of one tooth it can see at one time), minimum target (tooth) size, and depth (readable height of teeth)affecting reading at any speed. There are several factors to consider with sensors and target features (wheels and teeth, holes, slots, etc) and reliable function. Unfortunately, most specifications are not available, and you end-up testing for results.

To make the point, one of the popular Hall sensors on these forums is actually categorized by the manufacturer as a transmission speed sensor, not crank or cam. Use whatever has the qualities you need for your setup to work well, as @dzener did. Even minor differences may mean a different sensor than what the next user found to work well. Just because one type worked or did not work for you doesn't mean success or failure to other setups, IMO.
#62915
I'm not sure of the code, according to my research it's 37500-PNB-003.
I used this one because it was the easiest to install that I had available here.

You can use any hall sensor you have available, but I think it's best to get an original crankshaft speed sensor (you can buy a used part)
#62967
FiatDuino wrote: Thu May 04, 2023 9:17 pm The TPS ADC range is very narrow.
Try recalibrating that sensor.

TPS ADC range.png

There are no TPDot values that are negative.
Sync loss occurs only when TPSDot = 0 and TPSDelta = 0 (+/- 0.1%).

TPSDot snd TPSDelta.png

TPS sensor and Hall-effect crank sensor share 5 volt reference and sensor ground connections.
Perhaps the TPS sensor is the source of noise.
I would like once again to thank everyone here for the suggestions you are providing 🥰
The day before surgery I was able to check again the 3 throttle bodies I have on hand, and I determined that all of them have some problems reading the first 10-15% of opening (values jump a lot ). After seeing which of them was worse I tried removing the potentiometer to try cleaning it. Unfortunately it’s not sold as replacement and instead the whole throttle body needs to be bought new.
As soon as I will be able to use my right arm again I’ll see if cleaning makes a difference and if the sync loss happens with any of the 3.
A new throttle body is not too expensive so it’s still a possibility.
Furthermore, I’m also replacing the gas tank with one from a factory efi panda with submerged pump. I’m curious to see if that will also make a difference.
Hoping to bring good news soon! Thank you again 😌
Attachments
camphoto_1903590565.jpeg
camphoto_1903590565.jpeg (6.45 MiB) Viewed 1046 times
52398eb62e7fe57798107ab2c4be837e.jpeg
52398eb62e7fe57798107ab2c4be837e.jpeg (110.33 KiB) Viewed 1046 times
#62971
As a suggestion for testing, when you calibrate speeduino tps, work out the minimum value, add 20% and then put that as your minimum. If will mean you have to press the accelerator a lot to get any output but the system will miss the bad area and you can prove other things. I'm just thinking you could play with the car whilst bits heal without having to do any major car changes.

Hi, I am trying to assign Signed values to the x-a[…]

Vr Conditioner Noise when cranking

New version 202305 don't fix the issue. Now after[…]

blitzbox

I've finally figured out why MAP and Lambda weren'[…]

Hello, I bring news!! Let me tell you that after […]

Still can't find what you're looking for?