Anything not specifically related to the Speeduino hardware. Eg sensors, bluetooth, displays etc
#65840
PSIG wrote: Sun Nov 19, 2023 12:21 am 1. Those steppers are descendants of the old GM stepper IACs. I'll bet you can drive both in-parallel from one module.
2. Check the ohms of each coil in yours.
3. Sounds like some testing is in your future. ;)
1. Everyone said that would be impossible because they needed to be controlled separately.
2. DC resistance of 59 Ohms
3. I hope this is the case! :)

Here is the engine running:
https://youtu.be/Cl4H12B1XQY
#65841
LPG2CV wrote: Sat Nov 18, 2023 4:24 pm You don't need to close the idle screws completely, just close them both a sixth of a turn at a time each. I say a sixth because screwdrivers often have flats on them to turn with a spanner.
I have turned them a quarter turn at a time like I used to do on my carbys.
Altogether I backed them off three-quarters of a turn and the engine seems pretty happy there at about 1100-1200rpm. I have attached the tune file and log
Here it is running:
https://youtu.be/Cl4H12B1XQY
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#65844
Thought it must have some :D

I remember reading this now, but refrained from any input, as I have no experience of idle control, other than throttle stop.

Purely from a logical point of view. The purpose of the idle control, is to help maintain idle, by bleeding additional air into the inlets, to pull the idle up under load, and when warming up. PWM idle, I suspect, would normally react against a spring, and the spring would keep the vent closed when not running and the power is off. Stepper on the other hand, homes the vent pintle to a required position every time the sytem is powered up. Engine conditions then dictate it's movements.

Again, logically. when warmed up, the oem system required a specific amount of air and fuel to idle at the correct rpm. as you are getting a higher rpm with speedy, than oem, it follows the steppers are not in the closed position.

Myself, even if I didnt want to use idle control, I would be trying to close the steppers (with a controller), before setting up idle on the throttle stops.
#65851
Not looking to get into the whole idle control topic here, but a few suggested approaches that may help in project development. Tuning vs advance vs air. First runs typically use no IAC air, and the engine is made to run with throttle until warmed. Then, the idle tuning results in the throttle stop setting for a warm stable idle at a reasonably stable target rpm. All good so far, and the engine is running stable at fueling for peak-torque and stability (e.g., minimum MAP).

Next is warm re-start tuning, finding warm priming pulse with zero or very low ASE and WUE for quick and reliable warm restarts. Good. From there we can alter fueling for colder conditions, using our previous tuning as the baseline, adding fuel, air or timing in order to maintain the target Lambda/AFR for stable operation during warmup. OK, as some engines typically need a little more help with cold-start stability than going straight to warm idle rpm target with more fuel.

Air versus advance. Air is slow to react and I view it as a general idle speed range correction, bringing idle to the neighborhood it should be when conditions or loads change substantially (temperature, altitude, fuel change, whatever that is relatively slow). Conversely, idle timing advance is very fast response, but can be limited in its correction authority. So, stable tuning with timing advance to maintain target, and added air if it's needed to get there.

Depending on the engine, with common load changes and other conditions, the air can be simply set by throttle stop as carburetors were (step 1 above). This is all that's needed with many or even most engines, and works especially well for larger or well-tuned engines. All good. For cold warmup, cold advance timing can be added, but this often isn't enough stability and air can be added - if necessary - with an on/off valve, cable lever, or open-loop steps, etc. As-above, air is added to again bring it into the general area, where timing can quickly push or pull it to specific target rpm.

I hope you can see the incremental development of the idle controls, as the engine shows demand for each. Tune it well for warm stability, then use timing for quick and smaller corrections, and air for larger, slower corrections to bring it into the timing correction range. I hope that helps. 8-)
#65853
PSIG wrote: Sun Nov 19, 2023 6:01 am
Marvin2Shoes wrote: Sun Nov 19, 2023 5:05 am Everyone said that would be impossible because they needed to be controlled separately.
Why?
I looked again... Most of the conversation was here:
viewtopic.php?p=62768#p62768
Thanks for all that.... I will look into it. It's getting quite stable now when oil is over 70*C.
#65855
LPG2CV wrote: Sun Nov 19, 2023 10:10 am Thought it must have some :D

Logically. when warmed up, the oem system required a specific amount of air and fuel to idle at the correct rpm. as you are getting a higher rpm with speedy, than oem, it follows the steppers are not in the closed position.
Myself, even if I didnt want to use idle control, I would be trying to close the steppers (with a controller), before setting up idle on the throttle stops.
Woops... Too late! But at least I can undo my throttle stop adjustment if the idle actuators aren't 'homed'.
It seems that I should try connecting he steppers in parallel then... given they are 59 ohm windings?
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