[Marvin2Shoes]

Most likely.
When you calibrate, you just create a look up table that converts the output voltage from the controller, to an AFR. No physical connection.
It will just read wrong, if calibrated incorrectly.

OK I have tried to autotune but it just sits there saying it is calibrating the O2 Sensor... I think I may have it set up incorrectly. Does anybody know how to set the settings for the Spartan 2 controller supplied optionally with the NO2C?

[LPG2CV]

Ok

You won't be able to do much with autotune without the engine being in the bike, and riding it.

You don't really need auto tune for idle. Though yyou can practice to understand it in that area.

Regarding it not calibrating, what firmware version do you have?

[Marvin2Shoes]

Regarding it not calibrating, what firmware version do you have?

I don't have the latest October release... Mine will be what speedyloader installed back in May/June.

[LPG2CV]

There were some issues with Speedy writing the calibration. Try the latest release, and if that doesnt work, then try the Master.

I know it was fixed, I just don't know where

[Marvin2Shoes]

There were some issues with Speedy writing the calibration. Try the latest release, and if that doesnt work, then try the Master.

I'm taking it the master isn't a time lord from Gallifrey but rather another version of firmware?
I will try that this morning (16 Nov 2226h Zulu 17 Nov 0826h Kilo)

[Marvin2Shoes]

I have flashed the October firmware and set the Spartan 2 controller as a "14Point7" and wrote this to the controller.
I then reverted back to a known working tune file and started the engine.
Here is the log and tune file:

[Marvin2Shoes]

This morning I started the twin and it was very reluctant to start. It was smelling quite rich so I started watching the AFR gauge. It was reading about 10.9.
Idle was also high at about 1300rpm.
I stepped the VE values down while watching the AFR and it was increasing as it should.
By this time the engine was up to oil temp (the oil flow into the oil cooler starts when reaches oil temp of 111*C).
I then decided to see what autotune thought the fuelling value should be. It started reducing my values further and ended up at 34. That is almost half what they were when I started today.
the change I have noticed is the AFR gauge sits around 14.3 to 14.5 but it is idling very smoothly at about 1500rpm. I checked target idle rpm is set to 780rpm at that coolant temp so unsure how I get things back down now. There is no O2 compensation, idle control is off and the idle screws on the butterfly valves haven't been adjusted since the original ECU came out. Given they are independent of one another on separate throttle bodies I am loath to touch them without making sure this is my next step.
I have watched video after video on the subject of idle tuning, fuelling and AFR but nothing seems to hold any clues as to how to fix this so I'm hoping it's just manual idle screw adjustment.

[LPG2CV]

Yes, I would leave the idle stop screws alone.

That was a good move regarding veal at idle to get a ball park value.

Perhaps the idle control starts by being open, until the engine starts and then it begins to close. If it's not connected, or controlled, then it will stay open.

[LAV1000]

In your latest tune, ignition advance is locked at 20deg.

To me it seems bike doesn't have some idlecontrol valve.

idle stop screw;
If it was my bike i turned them down and started adjusting fuel and ignition to it.
Do this when engine is warm.
Use AFR as your guidance.
Don't get fixed on 14.7, for idle it is mostly lower , depents on how engine is reacting to it.
Forget OEM settings and start "playing" whit settings for fuell and ignition, hear, feel and smell (human AFR) how engine reacts to it.

If it makes you feel better make notes on how much turnig was involved on those idlestop screws and which tune you used.
So there might be a reference/starting point for you.

[Marvin2Shoes]

I think I'll count both idle screw rotations back to fully backed off and see how things work from there. If I could run two separate MAP sensors it would solve all these problems... and no doubt create more work with second fuel/afr tables.
it would be nice to be able to run separate manifold vacuum gauges to sync idling tho. I think boxer twins with two throttle bodies that are not mechanically linked like many engines are, may not be well suited to the NO2C. Add to that the need to run two idle steppers and two knock sensors and things are not exactly falling into place.