[lovosal]

Hello
The gun arrived and I tried it, but it still doesn't work.
It seems that the problem is in the spark configuration on the speeduino.
I attach several photos in which you can see the spark from the spark plug with the Original ECU and then with the speeduino.
The amount of energy generated by the original ECU is much greater than that generated by speeduino with the configuration I currently have.
I need the technical data of the coil so that it works or change it for a competition one that works for my car and that of course comes with the technical data, which is what I need. But I am not able to find anything at all and I no longer know where to look or how to search...
I'll post the photos and give me your opinion.
Thank you

[JHolland]

That looks like insufficient dwell time, I suggest that you buy a cheap oscilloscope and measure the dwell time from the stock ECU.

[lovosal]

Thanks for responding.
I have a two channel digital oscilloscope that I bought, I don't think it's too good but I have it.
The problem is that I don't know exactly how to do it.
I'm going to watch some videos on the Internet to know how to do it.
I leave some photos of the oscilloscope

[lovosal]

Ask,
They can be removed. Data I need from myself. Ignition coil and my injector from the original ecu?
The thing is that I have a copy of my ECU file from when we tried to reprogram it, and that is the tuned file that the coach sent me. (I have both files, the original untouched and the Tuned one)
And I thought that maybe from that file we can get the information we need for my coil and my injector.
I am attaching the file in case. I could do

[JHolland]

That scope will be good enough, you don't need a high spec for the vast majority of automotive stuff. I have several very expensive high performance scopes in my lab and a DSO2512 in my toolbox, if it gets dropped, run over
or falls onto the exhaust manifold I'll get another one, it cost less than a calibration on a good scope.

[lovosal]

Hello
Today I was with the car again. Knowing that I couldn't do anything with my oscilloscope since I'm missing the ammeter clamp and without it I haven't seen how I could do the checking of the coil dwell times, so I've done it the old way with the test method and mistake.
I have removed the fuel relay so as not to choke or waste gasoline and I have started to touch the dwell menu...
I have been raising and lowering the spark dwell, the cranking dwell and even changing the doing low to the doing high.
I have reached very dangerous values, but since it was a test I was not too worried. But still, the spark did not come out like the original ECU. Already, desperate not to understand what is happening, that even raising the values ​​to critical levels the spark, the spark was still not like the original, I decided to see more parameters and at that moment I saw the Dwell voltage correction and modified it. And at that moment the spark was already coming out like that of the original ECU!!! I could'nt believe it!!! so I quickly replaced the fuel pump relay to try to start the car.
Well, things have improved a lot but they are still just starting out. I only get it to almost start if I press the accelerator pedal to the floor, it seems that by doing so more air enters and also cuts off the fuel, I suppose to clean the excess (I think that function was programmed to enter when it was depressed more than 90 % of the accelerator pedal) and it started to want to start (I have several records that I am going to place so you can see them).
Now I have two doubts:
1st, if you try to start with the pedal depressed, could it be that I have too much fuel assigned in the table? I'll take a screenshot of the one I left now since with this one I seem to want to start better.
2nd, once I manage to start the car, will I be able to maintain the Dwell voltage correction table with those percentages? Because if I removed them the spark would barely appear and I don't think it would work. And if I left it, wouldn't the coil get hot by leaving it like that throughout its operation or should that be the case and nothing would happen?
I add several consecutive records of the improvement in the boot attempt.
I await your opinions.
Thank you.

[PSIG]

… I decided to see more parameters and at that moment I saw the Dwell voltage correction and modified it. And at that moment the spark was already coming out like that of the original ECU!!! I could'nt believe it!!!

Congratulations, and thank you for posting your experience. I talk about voltage corrections and other small settings that can make a big difference, and that new projects should review every setting. Some think it is silly. You can tell them it is not.

1st, if you try to start with the pedal depressed, could it be that I have too much fuel assigned in the table? I'll take a screenshot of the one I left now since with this one I seem to want to start better.

Yes, opening the throttle to Flood Clear stops fuel, and leans the cylinders. If you need to cut fuel to start, the priming or cranking fuel is too much -or- the VE table values are too much (cranking fuel adds to VE value).

I would get it started, warm to normal temperature, then tune your idle and low speed first. Blend the table cells up to the top in the first few rpm columns. Your warm restart prime and cranking settings should be set next for quick warm restart.

Then cold restart will add more prime and more cranking fuel to the tuned VE for quick cold starts. Once it fires cold, then it uses WUE to maintain running Lambda/AFR to warm-up, assisted by ASE for a some seconds after start until it runs smooth. One step at a time, and each setting relies on the setting before it.

2nd, once I manage to start the car, will I be able to maintain the Dwell voltage correction table with those percentages? Because if I removed them the spark would barely appear and I don't think it would work. And if I left it, wouldn't the coil get hot by leaving it like that throughout its operation or should that be the case and nothing would happen?

Yes, the voltage corrections are for all uses. The corrections ensure proper spark at any voltage. As voltage increases with speed, dwell reduces for proper current. So, the coil will have good spark, without getting hot at higher voltage.

That's true, but assumes your corrections are... correct. They look OK for now, and you can test for best values once it's running better. Check temperatures of the coils and coil drivers to verify they are not much hotter than other nearby engine parts. You are winning the fight!

[lovosal]

Hello,
How informative. Let me tell you that a while ago I requested the FAE brand coil factory. FRANCISCO ALBERO. S. A. U. Technical data of the mi coil. Car. I thought they would laugh and not answer me, but what was my surprise?
They have answered!! I don't know if the data that has been sent to me in PDF will be enough, but I share it here, so that everyone who looks for it doesn't have the same thing happen to me and that it helps them.
I would also like to comment that it would be good. The idea is that we will form a database of all the Coils that we find with the data that we have all needed and searched for so much, to be able to complete the tunerstudio and leave our cars/motorcycles well tuned.
I think it would be very interesting to have the database even if it is in Excel.
For my part, I start this idea, doing my bit with this first PDF.
Tell me if it's worth it.
Thank you

[lovosal]

Hello
Today, I have been with the car again. I had modified the ve table and removed the extra priming of the injector (one of those added to the ve table apparently), but it still won't start... Same symptoms, if I don't step on the accelerator, it doesn't try to start, if I step on I put the accelerator down, it does want to start but it can't...
I may have found part of the problem that I can't start... And it was my fault...
Apparently with the desire and the nerves, it seems that I was left without mounting the additional resistance that I have to put on my injector, since my injector is low impedance (about 2 ohms)
So I think the. Injector is putting gasoline in a very beastly way...
I'm right? Without the resistance, the. Does the injector get more gas, why does it stay open longer?
Apart from this, I have noticed that a part of the plate gets very hot, step photo. Would it have anything to do with the heating of the plate if the injector did not have its resistance installed?
Thank you

[Spidii]

Hello
Today, I have been with the car again. I had modified the ve table and removed the extra priming of the injector (one of those added to the ve table apparently), but it still won't start... Same symptoms, if I don't step on the accelerator, it doesn't try to start, if I step on I put the accelerator down, it does want to start but it can't...
I may have found part of the problem that I can't start... And it was my fault...
Apparently with the desire and the nerves, it seems that I was left without mounting the additional resistance that I have to put on my injector, since my injector is low impedance (about 2 ohms)
So I think the. Injector is putting gasoline in a very beastly way...
I'm right? Without the resistance, the. Does the injector get more gas, why does it stay open longer?
Apart from this, I have noticed that a part of the plate gets very hot, step photo. Would it have anything to do with the heating of the plate if the injector did not have its resistance installed?
Thank you

Hola,no se exactamente como es la placa no2c, pero diría que es el regulador de voltaje y es normal que se caliente