[jonbill]

It should probably be 'going low'. Most are.
Can you sketch how the distributor, ignitor and coil are wired to each other and power etc?
The spark table X axis is a little screwy - you've got TPS load index set, but your X axis goes from 2.5 to 25.
It should go from 0 to 100. I *think* it should work anyway, but it might be worth setting a more correct range.

occasionally the RPM is jumping up to nearer 400, so there may be noise issues to deal with too, if there really are no sparks.

[tristessa]

Not in a place where I can actually sketch and my artistic skills are practically nil, but this is now it's currently wired:
Distributor points -> VR1+ pin of Speedy -> Speedy IGN1 -> PRW-2 pin 3 -> PRW-2 pin 1 -> coil (-)

I've got an ignition test light between the coil wire and distributor cap, and it doesn't flash at all while cranking. If I manually trip the coil, either directly or with the PRW-2 module, the light flashes so I know the coil functions as it should....plus the ignition worked fine before and the only thing changed is what's triggers the coil. Speedy sees RPM while the engine is cranking, so I know it's getting signal from the distributor and does appear to cycle the injector based on fuel wetting the inside of the TB after cranking and attempting to start. It seems that Speedy just isn't telling the ignition to spark. I've quadruple-checked the wiring between the distributor, Speedy, the PRW-2 module and the coil both visually and with a continuity tester and it's all as it should be, assuming the points signal is supposed to go to the VR1+ pin and the ignition signal for a single coil l is supposed to come out of the IGN1 pin.

I'll try "going low" again and fix the spark table X axis this evening. Might it be better to start from scratch with a new tune?

[jonbill]

I think the fact that your reading rpm does confirm the distributor->vr1+ is correct.
Is PRW-2 pin 2 to chassis/block ground?
It won't hurt to eeprom_clear and reload everything, but I dont think thats where the problem is.

[PSIG]

It should probably be 'going low'. Most are.

Agreed, for PRW-2. Set JP1 to 5V. All 3 pins must be correctly connected and secure, and the module mounted to a good heat sink surface. The PRW-2 and similar types typically run fairly cool, but heat sink paste on the clean and flat mount surface can be helpful for better heat transfer.

The spark table X axis is a little screwy - you've got TPS load index set, but your X axis goes from 2.5 to 25.
It should go from 0 to 100. I *think* it should work anyway, but it might be worth setting a more correct range.

+1. If changing column or row header values in any of the tables (for better range or just to make them match), then make the changes and click the 90° double-arrow in the bottom-left corner of the table to iterate and re-distribute the table values to the new header values. This reduces the possibility of your brain smoking , and limit the need for re-tuning.

Not in a place where I can actually sketch and my artistic skills are practically nil, but this is now it's currently wired:
Distributor points -> VR1+ pin of Speedy -> Speedy IGN1 -> PRW-2 pin 3 -> PRW-2 pin 1 -> coil (-)

The points signal is digital on/off, effectively like Hall. Verify they are clean and well-adjusted, and any condenser or capacitor is disconnected.

Assuming you are NOT using a signal conditioner module - verify distributor points wire to VR+/RPM1, JP2 set to Hall or Direct (not VR), with JP4 (5V pullup) jumper ON. Agreed, PRW-2 pin 2 high-current ground to the engine block. If using a signal conditioner module, use VR settings and jumpers, including the cam unused channel.

Might it be better to start from scratch with a new tune?

Do not be afraid to experiment. Save the tune you have if you want to go back or refer to it. Just Save As the current tune under a new name to make any test changes, and re-save it if the results are better as "last best" backup. Repeat as much as you like. Reload any older tune to go back in a click.

You are only cranking with no fuel while testing ignition, so be sure your spark plugs are out and well grounded to spark, and test for proper function. I like to zip-tie the spark plugs together in good contact for common ground, with a single jump-wire to a good block ground. While it's nice to see the sparks, note exposed sparks make a lot of signal noise, so consider that when diagnosing.

[tristessa]

JP1 is set to 5V, I'll switch to "going low" with the new tune. All pins on the PRW-2 are connected correctly and securely including #2 to ground. Module is securely mounted to a fairly large sheet metal bracket that's bolted to the sheet metal inner fender, flat surface to flat surface with white CPU thermal compound underneath. Bracket surface had some mild corrosion so I wire brushed it clean before mounting.

I do have a signal conditioner installed, but that's easy enough to pop out of the socket. When I ordered the NO2C board & components, I just ordered everything that I thought I even might need so I'd have it on-hand instead of having to wait for things to come in. Points are fresh, adjusted to .016" same as my Volkswagen that uses the same points/cap/rotor. Condenser is physically mounted to the distributor because it's part of the bracket holding the wire grommet in the distributor body, but the wire to it is clipped off with the end insulated. Points wire does go to VR1+, verified both visually and with the continuity tester of my meter

I'll start over with a new tune just so I've got a clean start that I haven't monkeyed with too much. There's a backup of that saved on my desktop and also posted to this thread. No idea why I had it set to TPS for the ignition load source or why some other things are set the way they are; I hadn't done any actual tuning to this one, just adjusting the various settings to where I thought they were supposed to be based on my physical configuration and what I thought I understood from the wiki. But, I'm not as smart or as clever as I think I am sometimes.

[PSIG]

No problem, and initial settings are the first big effort, to get them right or as-close-as-possible for a clean and successful first-start. Note I gave guidelines for both with and without a signal conditioner. Either way is fine with points, though noisy points can sometimes be helped by a signal conditioner. Begin either way, with appropriate settings, and consider changing to test for best results.

The condenser may be reconnected later (at the coil, between coil(+) and coil(-)) as a noise suppressor, once it is tested to be in proper functional condition.

It sounds like you are very close and on a good path. Rock on!

[tristessa]

HOO-EFFING-RAY!

Just got the first signs of life out of the engine with Speedy connected. There's definitely work to be done with the ignition timing since I had the distributor out for new points/condenser and only eyeballed it on reinstallation, but it did fire up and run very roughly for a moment....backfires and all.

It turns out what's been kicking my hindquarters with the lack of spark is that..........while I've checked the wiring between the coil, PRW-2 module and the harness plug that goes to Speedy, I've always just ASS-u-me'd the pins in the harness plug were actually connecting to the receptacles in the socket. I'm using a panel socket with wires, which allowed the receptacle for IGN1 -- as well as VVT, launch and tach, but I'm not using those -- to back out of the housing, and not actually connecting to the harness. I must not have seated them as fully into the housing as I thought I did, so I re-checked them all and the rest are secure like they should be.

I'd taken the harness back apart to quintuple-check everything before I found this, so I have to get new harness sleeving material in the morning, but wanted to report that there are signs of life before I call it a night.

[PSIG]

[tristessa]

Wrapped the harness back up, and since I now know everything's essentially working hardware wise fished the wiring and vacuum line through a convenient unused grommet in the firewall to put Speedy inside under the dash. I'd temporarily stuck it to the RH inner fenderwell with some dumdum putty to.

Got some more VROOM a little while ago. If I let off the pedal it won't idle and it seems to fall over some in the higher RPM's, but I don't know if the IAC is working for the idle and also dont know if the falling over at higher RPMs is something with Speedy or if that's ignition timing I don't know. I static timed it same way I used to do my Volkswagen -- turn the engine to #1 TDC and line up the rotor with the notch in the distributor body -- but until I can get it to idle I can't put a timing light on it. Gamma enrichment dial face in TunerStudio was red most of the time too.

Log attached for chuckles, photo attached for posterity. Not the prettiest shiniest engine in the world, but not bad for 49 years old with under 90k original miles.

[tristessa]

IAC stepper motor graphs were all at zero. Working on correcting that now.

Also thinking this should be in the "User Projects" forum instead of "Getting Started" at this point. Should I start a new thread over there, or can this one just get moved?