[PSIG]

If you are confident the signal exists at the sensor, then you can diagnose from the other end - test for signal at the processor board input pin, and work your way out if signal is not found. The section between where you found signal and did not, is your failure area. If no failures from sensor to processor, then you are looking for a processor or code or settings issue.

A voltmeter can sometimes work, if it is fast enough to register a pulse, indicating a signal of some sort exists. A simple test LED can substitute if the pulses are slow enough to see on/off action. Cranking speeds are generally slow enough. At this point, we need to know if some signal exists, more-so than exactly what that signal shape is.

[DaemonCo]

An oil pressure gauge connects directly to the dash, it would be great to be able to log this data too as it's currently 'dumb'

986/996.2 canbus from the cluster has the oil pressure

[Shalmaneser]

An oil pressure gauge connects directly to the dash, it would be great to be able to log this data too as it's currently 'dumb'

986/996.2 canbus from the cluster has the oil pressure

Interesting. The 996.1 sensor is resistive and just goes straight to the dash. I'm interested to see if the OBC still works with Speeduino - ie. how many miles left in the tank. Can't see how the dash is getting the MPG info other than wheel speed and fuel tank %age...

I've been being a bit lazy with this as have been distracted with other stuff but have pulled my finger out and got some silicone tubing to hook up to the inlet, going to get back on it. Do need a timing light!

[Shalmaneser]

Last thing of note- It's a standard 60-2 Bosch wheel with a 1 tooth Cam Position sensor. It's an inductive sensor, and the missing teeth lie 84 degrees before TDC on Cyl 1.

Given the above should I be putting 84 or -84 or 276 in Tunerstudio? Will confirm with a timing light obviously.

Also three wire Bosch icv is making periodic snapping sound? Anyone else seen this? Doesn't sound great!

[apollard]

-84

[Shalmaneser]

-84

That's what I've inputted into TS - slightly disappointed she didn't just fire up when I turned the key but I do need to confirm the ignition timing is correct, this is for pretty much the same engine but it could be different. Assuming the above is correct can anyone suggest a process for troubleshooting a no-start issue? As it's batch spark/injection I guess I'm fairly safe in terms of timing, so am I best increasing or decreasing fuel when going for that first start?

[jonbill]

Confirm there are sparks and that the trigger angle is reasonable with a timing gun, confirm there is some fuel being injected) check a plug after cranking) and then as you say, vary the fuel amount.

Start with a decent size injector priming pulse - 20ms maybe?

[Shalmaneser]

Have checked fuel and spark and have both. Timing gun is taking an age to arrive, can't wait for another go! Will check priming pulse length. Thanks for the tips.

Wiki is useful on the topic:

https://wiki.speeduino.com/en/configuration/Priming

[PSIG]

After a couple of no-starts, pull a spark plug to examine for fuel. If excessive (wet plug tip), dry or "burn-off", as wet fuel is a form of fouling and can cause a no-spark condition even if good fueling is found.

[Shalmaneser]

Finally managed to get some spare time and got the timing light working. Given the sensor offset is currently -84 degrees, the timing mark is at roughly 10-15 degrees mark (per the drawing above). Should I subtract 10 - 15 degrees to give -94 degrees timing offset if this is the case? Will double check but getting time to set this up and a willing volunteer is not easy to come by!