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By stum
#35465
Yes one tooth each side.

I thought I had a photo of it, but I cannot find it.

so it would go 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ... repeat
/\ /\
missing tooth and other one

Was 24 now 22 with 2 bigger gaps. and when it run and you look at the tooth log you will see two big pulses where the 0's are.

hopefully that clears things up. I had a spare dizzy to play with.

You could also try 24-1 with a missing tooth cam. which only needs one tooth removing. but when it tried it i could not get a stable ign pulse. but thing may have improved since then. see below link

viewtopic.php?p=24501#p24501

regards
#35503
stum wrote:
Sat Jun 08, 2019 3:56 am
Yes one tooth each side.

I thought I had a photo of it, but I cannot find it.

so it would go 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ... repeat
/\ /\
missing tooth and other one

Was 24 now 22 with 2 bigger gaps. and when it run and you look at the tooth log you will see two big pulses where the 0's are.

hopefully that clears things up. I had a spare dizzy to play with.

You could also try 24-1 with a missing tooth cam. which only needs one tooth removing. but when it tried it i could not get a stable ign pulse. but thing may have improved since then. see below link

viewtopic.php?p=24501#p24501

regards
do you have a facebook or messenger that i can contact you with?

took one tooth off and tried 24-1 missing wheel, it started but lumpy idle.
it quickly dies when i put a little throttle
tried different settings and trigger angle but i can't seem to make it idle stable
TSultra tooth logger is not working

wiring
NE - VR2+
G- - VR1- and VR2-
VR1+ - open
G1 and G2 - open

here is my TS settings, i hope you can shed some light :D
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pLOoS4 ... sp=sharing
By stum
#35518
I have to agree with theonewithin

Sorry I don't do Facebook or messenger. Anyway all this info will hopefully help the next person.

Every time i remove the dizzy or swap engines OR when its not sounding 100% that is the first thing I do. in TS. set the ignition to fixed 10 deg.

And then the check the timing and adjust the offset as as necessary. it can change by 5-10 deg easily. And depending on what tooth you have removed, it could be anywhere.

I think Mine is wired

NE - VR1 - & VR2 -
G - VR1 +
G1 and G2 not connected.

Rising edge

Speeduino VR conditioner.

Toothed log can take a bit to show up. mine normally takes 15-20 seconds before the pretty lines show. (i have never timed it but takes a while)

Set the timing and have another go. And don't forget to set it back to normal. I ran my truck last weekend at fixed 10 deg. not a smart move. but ran all day. Ooops.

Once you have it running at fixed 10 deg, have another look at timing. When I last used that decoder (18+ months ago) it was scattering by about 10 deg (on my install). But the god's (noisymime and team) may have sorted it

I then went to 12-1 crank by removing a second tooth. steady as a rock (for me)

The thing that blows me away every time I have a problem, is how far out things can be and it will still run.
Timing out by 40+ deg. motor runs. not well but runs
One bank of cylinders 360 deg cam timing out. engine ran on 3. but ran.

Sounds like you are close. good luck.
User avatar
By PSIG
#39873
kimdrummel wrote:
Sun Mar 27, 2016 9:14 am
… the Toyota 24 + 2 (should we call it that?)
If this unusual combination is addressed in code, it would likely be designated Toyota 24/1/1, to both hold to naming convention and which highlights it is not like other typical systems.

Per the Wiki, the first number is the primary wheel teeth or pulses (24). The character "+" means additional teeth are present on the wheel, which is not the case here. A couple examples of "+" wheels are here. A "/" character signifies the following number(s) are cycle pulses. As there is only one cycle tooth, but two cycle sensors; each outputs one pulse-per-cycle, ergo 24/1/1.

Part of my point in this is to highlight some of the causes for issues in decoding using the current decoder methods. Cycle pulses are per 720° in order to signify the cycle the engine is in, allowing sequential identification. However, if both cycle sensors are connected, then it violates the assumption that cycle pulses are in specific places. With the cycle pulses every 360­° from two sensors, Speeduino does not know which is correct and it also does not expect another one in the same cycle, leading to processor confusion that it should occur 720° apart or at least within the same 360° crank rotation.

To add to the mess, all three sensors share grounds. This tends to cause "ghosting" signals which can confuse the VR conditioner. So, even if you do not connect one of the two cycle sensors (making it a good 24/1 setup), the VR module may still 'see' the 2nd sensor ghost signal though the shared wiring, as shown in some 'scope images. Some suggested workarounds are to ground the unused cycle sensor signal with a low-value resistor, and/or ground all sensors off-board so the module only sees positive module inputs more like a Hall or optical signal, or remove the second cycle sensor (if possible).

To add one more issue that prevents easy application of this Toy distributor is the signals, which could "work" with Rising or Falling setting for crank (careful with your module's signal inversion ;)), but (depending on conditioner) may work better with opposite edge on the secondary cycle signal. I have not had enough time with one to test what the golden combination is, nor even to verify the polarity of the signals is what the system expects. This would of-course cause issues to those removing primary wheel teeth.

As the original poster's images are no longer working, some fresh 'scope images of the three sensor outputs would be very helpful at this point for analyzing the Toyota 24/1/1 decoding and settings options. We need reliable information in order to tell Speeduino what to do with it. Any volunteers?

David
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