[panpan]

@tubeglower

That guy's K100 website is a mine of useful info, and there's another USA one for the older flat twin BMWs too.

The GTS1000 doesn't have a build page yet, as I'm using a small form factor unsupported board, so not sure what use my fiddlings will be. I have dabbled with these things before, and had some success, but I last played with this in 2009-11, and that was MicroSquirt based using B&G & MSExtra software. I still mess making ignition conversions for old cars, and hence why I could offer some help to your project, as I've modded similar stuff in the past. I'm just making driver boards at the moment, but need to clear the area for another round of bench testing, and eventually update the website with my findings.

That injector site is great, and very comprehensive, just a shame Nippon Denso's 195500-2680 are not listed, which would have been useful for me.

All the best
Mike

[tubeglower]

I think I will try to test the system in an engine. My racer engine it is being build, so I have to wait some time for that, but I do have another "very tired " engine that could be a nice "guinea pig" for the tests in the workshop. Things I need to do to prepare it:

- Clean the engine a bit (it is the nastiest engine I've ever seen)
- Assembly cooling radiator and hoses
- Adapt a TPS to the ITB set
- Adapt IAT sensor
- Decide and get a WB
- Think how to adapt the O2 sensor
- And start to think what should be a basic TS map to start it.

In respect the map and TS, I am a bit confused in respect what strategy of control to adopt. I assume that Alpha-N will be the easiest, but that speed density should be desirable. Then maybe Alpha-N with MAP compensation I think it is also a possibility. What do you guys recommend me to start with?

[LAV1000]

Start your "guinea pig" at Alpha -N, it is easier to follow what is happening.
You can always ad a map sensor and or a baro sensor to it.

If you used to tune carburettors, then you can get the engine running by sound and smell.
O2 makes it a lot easier to tune and its better for us to follow what is happening in the log files.
Get the figures for injectors right !!!

[LPG2CV]

Hi again. cant help but follow you both as I have an 86 RT. its stuck at the back of a barn, and no plans for it but it needs work. Though not necessarily speeduino.

Suggest you get the spare engine running on the oem system first, if that's feasible. That way may help with where issues lay.

[tubeglower]

@LAV1000

Thanks for the hint. Will try as you say.

@LPG2CV

No need for that, I bought the complete bike as a donor for some parts. The bike worked before I desassembled it, so I know the engine works... (actually I brought it home riding it)

I will go directly to try with speeduino.

[tubeglower]

I got a TPS from my parts box, it comes from a carb (a keihin if I recall it well). I've test it and seems to work properly.

TPS1.jpeg (103.81 KiB) Viewed 5969 times

Now I have to make that this

TPS2.jpeg (89.96 KiB) Viewed 5969 times

works with this

TPS3.jpeg (93.31 KiB) Viewed 5969 times

I am with the CAD, so I will try to print some parts to make it compatible.

[LPG2CV]

Easy then

[tubeglower]

The TPS is adapted

IMG_1904.jpg (127.64 KiB) Viewed 5929 times

IMG_1906.jpg (456.25 KiB) Viewed 5929 times

The ITB assembly, due to a physical stop, is able to "sweep" more or less 60% of the TPS range, but I guess it is not that impostant, since I will be able to tell to TS what is the minimum and maximun signal setpoints...

IMG_1905.jpg (161.15 KiB) Viewed 5929 times

[tubeglower]

Hi, I am back after some off time with this project. I've been able to decent clean and prepare the other engine and I am in the process of assembling all I need to do the first tests. Update of work done, so far:

- Clean and prepare engine
- Assembly cooling system
- Assembly TB with the new TPS setup
- Adapt the IAT sensor in the airbox
- Improvise Air filter

Now I am figuring out how to set up the trigger settings, and I will appreciate your help on what I am considering here:

The engine turns anticlockwise, and in the orihginal pick up setup I can turn it directly from the cranck using and allen key.

The operative hall sensor in the sensors plate is the one at 12 o'clock
The timing mark is at 3 o'clock
I am estimating that the "end of original window" is matching the sensor at 12 o'clock, so if continuing rotating ccw, the sensor should end detecting air gap and start detecting metal tooth. That correspons exactly with the original arrangement, since the window is the same and the hall sensor also is in the same position (we cut the extra slots to the wheel, as you will remember, making a 12-1 trigger wheel.

If I am not mistaken, each tooth covers:

360/14(teeth + slots) = 15 degrees
The original "big window" includes the missing tooth
Should I introduce in Tuner Studio 90 dgrees as the angle between TDC and the leading edge of the tooth after the missing tooth? (see the picture with the meaning of the sentence)

[LPG2CV]

The secret is, not to make it complex.

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=2895