Just some back ground on what I have done over the years.
I have been tuning cars before there was an O2 sensor.
I am so glad that they were invented because they sure help with good tuning. I have been using NB O2 since the early 1990s.
I have tuned mechanical injection systems with them
(k jetronics) All types of carbs including propane. NB O2 has worked very well using a voltmeter.
Now I just got into ECU building ten months ago. So far I find them very fun and good to work with.
Then I kept reading that NB O2 cannot tune correctly yet I have been using NB O2 for nearly thirty years.
So I set out to find out what was the truth.
How can it work for 30 years and now they don’t work on ECUs?
I can get volt readings from 1.2v down to minus .7 volts with an NB.
Then I get to the point where I am calibrating my NB O2 on TS and it just fell off and gave no readings on TS below .4 v.
So I set out to find out why.
This lead me to need to learn about electronics. I took readings of both volts and amps of the NB O2. The volts were there but the amps drop off very quickly around .4v. So I concluded the O2 is just fine and it had something to do with the ECU.
It is the forward voltage or voltage drop of the ECU making the NB O2 not work. Mostly.
Now I was on a mission to beat this problem.
I got a good WB O2 and a good NB O2 and set up a test.
I created a controller that could work with the NB O2 and use a friends WB O2 for a comparison.
I like the WB. It works very well. But I was still on a mission to get the NB to work. So lots of learning of electronics and hard work I got the NB to start to give a wide range of volts/AFR to TS.
I finally got both NB and WB calibrated to work well and liked both.
But with all I had done on this test I should finish the NB controller and it’s calibration to see what it really could do.
In the end the WB can be more accurate in the extreme rich and lean areas but they are in AFRs that we don’t need.
Just to be clear. I like both WB and NB now.
My NB can show on TS and MLV as lean as 23 afr and as rich as 7 afr and will tune correctly with in about .5 afr of target AFR.
I set my NB on the controller to 11 afr and 20 afr because any more is not needed. On my NA economy car I set the controller to 12 afr and 18 afr. With that and setting up the calibration on TS to match tuning is much easier.
In conclusion I find WB just slightly better at the extremes but the NB is cheaper and less likely to have an internal heater to fail.
I have an NB that is 25 years old and it still works and is accurate.
I like both and can tune well with both so you will get no conflict from me.
I have now got both calibrated dead on and both now have dead on lambda delay set up with my new way of finding delay.
I am new to this and find all of it fascinating and fun when it is not being frustrating.
Hope it helps someone.
Thanks to all here I can now install, configure, calibrate, base tune set up and road tune and hand tune.
There is much more to this and it would be hard to find the words to make the test work clear on a forum.
I will try to answer questions if I can, but understand I am new to ECUs, electronics and just started tuning 2 months ago, so I may not have all the lingo yet to say it right. I will do my best.