[androidcho]

Probably offtopic, but I hate these connectors, nah. Not water resistant in any way, and the contact resistance degrades with time, especially when some water or moisture goes in.

[PSIG]

Well, it's not a sealed case, so any moisture that can get in the connector can also get directly on everything inside. Hopefully, it's not installed in a way that any of that bad stuff is a concern. However, sealed case or not, I always weatherproof my connections and prevent contact oxidation with dimethyl siloxane ("silicone dielectric grease" or "tuneup grease"). Everything from ECMs to light bulbs to spark plug boots. This stuff has been used for decades to weather-proof connections, and is still used and spec'ed by aviation, telephone companies, personal watercraft makers, and most other industries for this purpose. Even most "weatherproof" connectors use this stuff to ease assembly and ensure they really are.
  
David

My weapon of choice:

[PSIG]

While on the Fritzing parts topic, I am still having issues with editing new parts. I have not done it enough to know how without fumbling. Is there a solid step-by-step out there that works well? The ones I have seen are either generic for uber-geeks or too detailed using different OS or programs. I'm using Win and Inkscape if that helps suggestions. Thanks!

David

[Old Grey]

Alignment/silkscreening seem pretty much perfect on the Denso connector:

That's great. Lucky that uneasy feeling I had when you said you were actually going to use it made me go back in and work out the missing bits.

Probably offtopic, but I hate these connectors, nah. Not water resistant in any way, and the contact resistance degrades with time, especially when some water or moisture goes in.

It's actually a connector that is inside the cabin. I have cars with them that have run fine for 32 years, so they can't be that bad.

While on the Fritzing parts topic, I am still having issues with editing new parts. I have not done it enough to know how without fumbling. Is there a solid step-by-step out there that works well? The ones I have seen are either generic for uber-geeks or too detailed using different OS or programs. I'm using Win and Inkscape if that helps suggestions. Thanks!

David

Unfortunately not, and was the reason my first attempt wasn't perfect because I had to reverse engineer it from other parts.
When I roughly work it out I told other people, and they worked out more of it and told me back, so I'm still learning things now.
There are some videos now, but not comprehensive instructions yet - FZ makes it's money from making parts so it's all reverse engineering -.

I try to help in the FZ forum by telling people how to do it, rather than doing for them, so that they learn.
I'm practically making a part per week, so if you need a hand.

The biggest eyeopener in Inkscape was the EDIT/XML Editor.
You don't even have to know XML because you can move stuff around and edit in the XML tree.
You can click on nodes in the XML Editor and they are selected in the actual svg.
I found that once you knew the structure of the XML in the different svg views it was more an Inkscape learning exercise.
Inkscape is weird, and is the hardest part, because sometimes to select parts you have to switch to node select, select the object, and then change to arrow select to move it.

The second eyeopener was checking it in Gerbview, to confirm that the actual part is correct for production.

I'm also finding parts in the CORE bin that aren't perfect, and the biggest one is not dimensional accurate parts in PCB. Found one today that wasn't made on a 0.100" grid, so the contacts were out, and I had to edit the PCB svg.

Had one today were I couldn't assign the contacts in FZ - a box appears over them so you can't select them -, so I had to go to the svg and lift the contacts to the front.

These days I get a part that is close and save it as a new part.
I then export parts that have a view I want, or can modify it to something I want, and unpack them by changing the .fzpz to .zip and working on the individual svgs.
I then edit the new saved part and import the individual svgs into their views and mod the META and save it.

[noisymime]

Probably offtopic, but I hate these connectors, nah. Not water resistant in any way, and the contact resistance degrades with time, especially when some water or moisture goes in.

Not going to lie, I'm not a huge fan either. In the MX5 the unit is located in the passenger footwell which can be prone to leaking too, which is less than ideal. I've seen a few of thee that are rusted out and suffering from water damage.

But if you want to make a PNP unit, you don't exactly have a lot of options

[androidcho]

Same shi* happened on a KIA Sportage 2.0TDI, same type of connector. Been flooded, because Asians like to put the ECU in the passenger footwell.

[cx500tc]

They also like to orient things so water can run down the wires and into connectors as opposed to slightly longer wires and the ECU mounted with the connectors facing downwards. It's kind of stupid if you ask me- wire at pennies per foot might add another one or two dollars to the cost but they won't do it.

Which brings me to another little niggle of mine: the default via drill size in Eagle is something like 0.6 mm but the default 'rules' in Eagle say the drill size is too small and you have to bump up to 0.7 to pass a rule check. Why do the defaults contradict each other? And, which one is really correct?


Anyhow, the dielectric grease idea is, my opinion here, the best solution. Any barrier you can place between metal and water is a good option. I might say doubly so if one lives near the ocean or any body of water. Along with that goes a warning to avoid any RTV sealant that uses the acetic acid cure process anywhere near electronics, wiring and such since, well, it's giving off acid vapors and acids and metals play so well together.

[Old Grey]

EEVBlog #543 - PCB VIA Current Investigation

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPm-qMyNwpo

[noisymime]

EEVBlog #543 - PCB VIA Current Investigation

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPm-qMyNwpo

Interesting stuff!

[Old Grey]

He has another where he adds solder to a track to increase it's current capacity.