Second firmware live stream happening this weekend: viewtopic.php?f=13&t=3992
Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
By evo_lucian
#42013
george-angelosvoudouris wrote:
Sat Apr 11, 2020 4:15 pm
@evo_lucian oh I forgot about the trigger teeth 24 if the sensor is on crank 12 if on cam correct? Thanks for the tips I'll check them one by one!

I decided to check the distributor signals on the bench for the factory distributor! So speedy on the bench a second distributor I had laying around hand drill and off we go!

I noticed 2 things.... on low RPM (cranking) I get to many trigger signals on higher RPM the signal starts to clear up!
The second thing is that as I stopped the drill and came at a full stop I saw all the ignition LEDs come on and then they stoped!

i have attached a composite logger file if someone likes to take a look
The cam rotates at half the speed of the crank. So with a cam mounted 24 teeth trigger wheel, If your are using "crank speed" reference in TS then it's 12 teeth, "cam speed" then it's 24 teeth. So essentially with 1 rotation of the crank you are telling speeduino that it would see 12 teeth. A complete cycle is 720° so 2 crank revolutions 12x2 teeth = 24. Hence why we can remove 1 tooth from the 24 tooth wheel in the distributor and be able to run full sequential.

Which trigger were you using for your bench test, 24/1 or basic distributor?
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By george-angelosvoudouris
#42046
evo_lucian wrote: The cam rotates at half the speed of the crank. So with a cam mounted 24 teeth trigger wheel, If your are using "crank speed" reference in TS then it's 12 teeth, "cam speed" then it's 24 teeth. So essentially with 1 rotation of the crank you are telling speeduino that it would see 12 teeth. A complete cycle is 720° so 2 crank revolutions 12x2 teeth = 24. Hence why we can remove 1 tooth from the 24 tooth wheel in the distributor and be able to run full sequential.

Which trigger were you using for your bench test, 24/1 or basic distributor?
I tried 24/1 and one thing that I found odd was that when I touched the body of the distributor with the wire that should go to the negative the speedy still was giving a pulse(to clarify : Positive(+) to Speedy, Negative(-) to Air, Speedy Negative to Dizzy Body).
Yesterday tried to fire the car and for a few seconds it fired for around 800 rpm and died! this happened for 2-3 times but I was already low on battery and I had to put it on the charger!
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By george-angelosvoudouris
#42527
Good day everyone as far as progress non so far but I managed to track down a broken ECU that I was looking for in order to take the HIC-1 board. But it's still in the mail :(

Because I'm still waiting I set my eyes on a few thinks I'd like to change
1st is the dizzy cap (although I want to get rid the dizzy altogether) and secondly to finish the air box for my ITBs

I made a dizzy cap in CAD and as far as the air box I already have reached the 3d printed prototype (pics from cad and cfd flow test)
Attachments
Post-processor Screenshot.png
Post-processor Screenshot.png (221.65 KiB) Viewed 188 times
air box v3.png
air box v3.png (554.62 KiB) Viewed 188 times
Dizzy cap 2.PNG
Dizzy cap 2.PNG (114.82 KiB) Viewed 188 times
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By george-angelosvoudouris
#43058
It's been a while since I wrote anything so it's time to bring you up to speed.....

So far I'm still troubleshooting what is happening with speedy and the crappy Honda sensors that for some reason refuse to touch...... Somebody else in my place would have already replaced the sensors and continue with his life but not me .... not me...So lets cut to the chase...

After a troubleshooting season, I had with @Karl B it seems software-wise there is not an issue reading the fucked up Honda sensors... With a bit of help (actually with a lot of help) from the guys from Slack I got some things sorted out...

So far C24 was replaced with 223J that it was at hand and R60 470 Ohm Resistor... The signal from the crappy sensors became better and actually stable from 980-1000 rpm up to 5600 rpm that my drill could reach (still troubleshooting)...

One suggestion that I had was to try the DSC VR conditioner instead of the MAX9926 to see If I could get better results...

The DSC finally arrived today and the first test was made...

Results so far.....

MAX9926+C24=223J+R60=470Ohm

Stable results from 1000 Rpm and Up

DSC+C24=223J+R60=470Ohm

A stable signal from 300rpm until 2800rpm after that all triggers going erratic

Further testing is due and I'm still waiting my hobby oscilloscope so at least give a bit more accurate info...


Special thanks to @KarlB, @LAV1000,@jama, and @noisymime

Your help is truly appreciated

Will update as soon as I have more results
By LAV1000
#43069
George,
I was thinking you kicked the dizzy already into the Mediterranean sea. :D

So the working area of the sensors has dropped to 2800 rpm.
Above the 2800 rpm voltage spikes from sensor gets to high and it stops working.
I suspect the 24 tooth sensor, to get voltage down you need to install a resistor across the sensor.

That is why they put in the possibility to add an extra resistor in your earlier VR conditioner.

Advise: If you mention a capacitor use its value like in uF (micro Farad), nF(nano Farad), pF (pico Farad).
It is easier to read and better to understand of what should happen.
Like if you mention a resistor you use its value like Ohm. kOhm, MOhm, and not the color code. ;)

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