Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
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By gpineau
I went out for a short 15 minute ride.

I turned on auto tune before I left and let it adjust the VE tables as I drove around. The original tune that was done with the larger injectors and injected from behind the butterfly is a lot different than the new configuration. With the smaller injectors and throttle bodies instead of re-purposed carbs the original tune was way too rich and auto-tune spent most of the time leaning out the VE table. A few cells at low RPM required more fuel.

when I go to wide open throttle too quickly it will bog down for a second or two. I think that is why Kawasaki put the secondary throttle plates in the throttle bodies.

Worst of it I lost one cylinder on the final half mile. I got on a strait road and opened up, I got up to 85 then shut it down and glided the rest of the way to the stop light. Just as i reached the light it started backfiring and running really rough. I thought I was going to have to push it the rest of the way home. But it stayed running long enough to get back the house. It would run fine for a few seconds then start sputtering again.

the fastest I have ever ridden it is 85 mph, it had more but I was coming up on an intersection so I shut it down.
I need to address the problem of it running out of steam at full throttle. Up to 3/4 throttle is does very well with great acceleration. But that last quarter turn on the throttle does not seem to add much. It still goes a bit faster but the acceleration is slower. I think it it going too lean at wide open throttle but... it may be too rich?. . I can do some logs of the AFR while running and see exactly what is going on.

I checked the plugs and number 1 was fouled or on the verge of it .
If you have a fouled plug, its lightly to make the other cylinders run weak if you have correction turned on. When auto tuning as well, if it samples the issue a sufficient amount of times, its going to think it is normal, and write it to your tune.

Consider auto tuning a rev band at a time working up from idle. Once you have a band set to the required VE, then save, and move on to the next band. That way, if you do get an issue, you can still drive home in the lower revs.
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^^ +1 to all that. This is why I never use live-tuning, and also tune in stages. I use MLV because it is highly configurable, returns much more data, and allows review for odd issues (like you found) before they mess with the tune. You could also use TS with constraints (rpm range, MAP range, CLT range, etc), it's just slower due to less feedback data. Tuners should do as they are most comfortable and productive (do your thing); but I've had too many WTFs wasting my time when just telling it to think for me and hitting the throttle. ;)

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@Gpineau - just saw your post on excessive current draw on your bike. I would address the over-sized fuel pump in your setup in order to reduce power consumption. By calculation, your bike needs 40 LPH at WOT for 116hp. 48 LPH with a buffer. 135 LPH is pumping fuel in circles and some significant electrical savings could be found there. I hope that's helpful.
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By gpineau
Yep, My fuel pump is overkill for sure. I did manage to drop a few amps by changing the headlamp to an LED lamp. That's all it took to bring the battery up to 13.9 in a few seconds after start. I had started a design on a PWM fuel pressure regulator but didn't get far before I was able to get where I wanted with the LED lamp. The bike is running great now. The only complaint is that if you go to WOT too quickly it will bog down and take a couple seconds to recover. Other than that it is very exhilarating to go through all 6 gears on flat ground.

I have a custom seat made for it that is 2 inches thinner than stock and I have lowered the frame 1.5 inches. Now I can stand with both feet on the ground without leaning to one side. And I put pullback risers and Honda Magna handlebar on it. So now I can sit up straight and still reach the controls. It's a fun bike to ride now.
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By gpineau
Before and after handle bar change Of course it didn't come easy. The throttle cables had to be changed to longer ones. and the clutch, brake hydraulic cables also need to be change.
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gpineau wrote:
Sun Jun 28, 2020 8:08 pm
… The bike is running great now. The only complaint is that if you go to WOT too quickly it will bog down and take a couple seconds to recover.
Post a log with the issue, and the tune you took it with. ;)
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