Speeduino

You can apply incremental steps in sensor heating, from no control (immediate heating to full temp on power-up), to a timer delay either in the vehicle or the controller, to heat on after start signal, to RPM sensing, e.g., 8Hz/500rpm before heating, to one OEM-style with an exhaust thermocouple that triggers full warmup above condensation temperature.

Additional parameters might be for other cold-shock conditions such as spark-cut rev-limiting, or conversely a bypass for hot sensor start-up tuning.

If you look at the sensor datasheets, you'll see a ramped warm-up profile, where it immediately begins low-current PWM heating on power-up in order to prevent damage, and follows with 100% PWM to full temp by time or temperature. Your decision is for what level of heating control to apply, based on your actual conditions and needs, and the trigger (if any) for each control step (if any). How deep do you need to go?

Remember, the control theories were to strive for long life in your Mom's car. In performance and racing we abuse them consistently for other purposes, where the sensors are regarded as consumables, similar to spark plugs and oil filters.

I have been testing these for some time, But i have lost 2 Genuine bosch sensors at 2 race meets on it, i'm running these alongside a AEM wideband with the same Bosch sensor, and it's been used for the last full year.
The sensors start out working great but start getting erratic after half day racing and then just get stuck on heating or sensor fault.

Anyone else running one yet?
https://youtu.be/OI7tZ5fAW9I

Is it the controller or sensor problem? I've had one running standalone on my bike for the past month. I'm even using a used sensor I got from the junkyard, off a vw if not mistaken.

Id say it was a controller problem, i use 2 brand new genuine Bosch sensors, both have only lasted one race meet, the first one made it a full day, the second one lasted about half a day and it just bouncing around as you can see in the video. ive been running between 12-15 afr , i have then tried the sensor on the AEM controller (they are side by side) and the sensor doesn't register anymore, the AEM is still working as it should the whole time with the same sensor for both meetings.

Hmm I'm wondering if it's the Bosch chip. Have u tried replacement another chip? U have the 30522 chip?

yes it a genuine bosch 30522 chip, But i haven't tried another controller on it, ill do that next and see what happens.
But im going to use a chinese sensor this time as i can't keep putting expensive bosch ones on it.

That doesn't sound like a typical condensation or shock-cooling failure. Offhand (and I could be off-base here), that description sounds more like either a sensor placement or heater control issue. Placement issues (including minimum angles) should be obvious. Heater control could be verified by deviation on the Nernst voltage (black wire), and cross-checked by a thermocouple on the sensor if readings indicate it.

AFAIK, all Asian sensors use original Bosch sensor elements, and the assembly and calibration is done over there. I've had some "original Bosch" sensors assembled elsewhere, and the reply I got when I challenged them was that the sensor element is true Bosch, so they feel they were not actually lying, and that I should find a place to stick it. Buyer beware.

Problem is, if these are fakes, we are in trouble. Sensor is in factory location at 45 degrees.

Hi Nick,
in my opinion it could be possible that these are fakes. The engraving on it looks really different to the original parts i have seen until today. It looks lasered and it could also be "state-of-the-art" in a newer production process. The older originals i know looking more "engraved".

The following picture is taken from a ebay auction which is for sure a fake. And it looks really near to the laser markings on your sensor: Pic taken from following auction:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/144016345145


The following pictures are from original sensors in the style i know:
Best regards,
Chris

Well I think the argument Nick is trying to make is that he's using the same sourced sensor on an Aem controller and there's no failure on that. What I've seen on this controller is that if there's intermittent or borderline acceptable input volts the controller just goes through the startup cycle endlessly, maybe constant cycling of the heat cycle might cause premature sensor failure?