[Jason hall]

So:
the crank vr sensor is wired to black b2 and b3, and the cam vr sensor is wired to black b4 and b5, and their shield is wired to black c1. Is that right?

Yes .

The shield I can clip lead to anywhere for now , b-/ analog ground / chassis ground . Won’t make a difference . factory harness wasn’t even shielded for all these wires originally using 20 year old ecu tech and had faultless cam and crank signals as I tested them all running before repinning the harness to speeduino connectors .

Surely I don’t need to convert this to hall sensors somehow or break a crank tooth off for 12-1 .

I don’t think the ecu is understanding the vr sensors even when it’s got clean input now . The signal in matches what it used to be before the ecu was even swapped over .

Look at these two , I do notice it’s much higher voltages but one is idle , one is cranking I guess but it’s a massive difference , thoughts ?

[Jason hall]

Latest update before I switch to hall sensors somehow

Cam sensor connector disconnected, still shows a replica signal on the composite logger

Depinned cam sensor from ecu all together

Crank signal is not right inside the ecu - has varying time frames and shapes all across it even though it’s held full speed on the starter with no plugs in it . I don’t think it can understand the 12 tooth crank just by itself . Same result set to falling aswell.

No shorts to ground or each other on the cam and crank
Both sensors 504 ohms and 534ohms across them

[LPG2CV]

Perhaps try shorting cam sensor input to ground.
Does it mess with crank pattern?
That would indicate wiring.

[Jason hall]

Perhaps try shorting cam sensor input to ground.
Does it mess with crank pattern?
That would indicate wiring.

With cam totally disconnected out of the ecu connector it still can’t even read the crank

[PSIG]

He said to try grounding the cam signal INPUT to ground, cam sensor disconnected. Give that a shot.

Your last 'scope image of cranking is a good signal pair for 12/1. Idle shows cam signal is poor (too many signals like a 12/4-1 or something).

You could also have a PCB or solder issue. Disconnect crank and cam sensors, power the PCB, then test for any voltage on the inputs. Both sides of the VR conditioner. Then remove the conditioner and test again. Should be 0V-0V. Sensors connected, PCB powered, should again be 0-0.

[Jason hall]

He said to try grounding the cam signal INPUT to ground, cam sensor disconnected. Give that a shot.

Your last 'scope image of cranking is a good signal pair for 12/1. Idle shows cam signal is poor (too many signals like a 12/4-1 or something).

You could also have a PCB or solder issue. Disconnect crank and cam sensors, power the PCB, then test for any voltage on the inputs. Both sides of the VR conditioner. Then remove the conditioner and test again. Should be 0V-0V. Sensors connected, PCB powered, should again be 0-0.

Yeah the last scope pattern is good from the sensors , just the ecu can’t interpret it .

The “ idle “ scope pattern is a good pattern , it’s back when the bike was on a stock ecu and has the stock 12 crank / 3 cam ( 2 and 1 opposed ) .

The ecu is fully pre assembled being a dropbear V2 but it came from factory new with the map sensor solder joints completely undone so who knows what else is up with it.

I want to buy 5 more dropbears but not until I’m confident the product works as it should in the first place .

Latest update is I’m giving up and trying to fit hall sensors inside the engine casings , have managed to squeeze one in between the timing chain for the cam. Next project is making mounts to hold the crank sensor in and around the lower chain area . Will wire it up and see if it can interpret hall sensors correctly .

Bit of a disaster as this whole project was to develop this ecu package using all factory sensors

[LPG2CV]

Just a curiosity .. what continent are you on?

[Jason hall]

Australia

[Jason hall]

Ok ,

So , rewired crank and cam through shielded cable to ecu entirely external to the bike .
Depinned entire ecu except
12v Power
Sensor ground - to shielded cable shield only
Power ground is via clip leads direct to battery negative externally around the bike .

Ran composite logger - excellent pattern , repeatable 100% spot on.

Now , connected only ign1 output which goes to brand new Bosch 7 pin igniter
Then direct to coil 1/4

As soon as I do that it loses the pattern and picks up false cam triggers .
Leads are on coils with plugs and grounded
Tried jump cable extra ground to battery - same
Tried igniter only with no coil attached - good
Reconnect coil - bad signal again
Even reversed coil wires - different but still bad signal

I mean I can’t possibly take out any more noise , the fuckin loom is on the outside of the bike with nothing else even connected or working , it’s all unplugged .

Regardless of off to aggressive filter it does the same thing . Rising /falling doesn’t matter .

As long as you don’t have ign1 connected the signal is good.

[Jason hall]

Ok fiiiiiiiiiinally may have found something .

Ign1 is where the noise is . Coils all test the same , if anything could 1/4 is the stronger purple sparking coil.

So swapped 2/3 coil to the ign 1 connectors and grounded plugs to exact same location and hey presto we have clean triggers .

Swap to no2 wiring with bad coil - clean triggers

Swap back to no1 wiring with bad coil - back to clean triggers

I think I will replace the two coils and retest .