Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
By LPG2CV
#71270
There is still weirdness with the tune, as some of the settings are still at zero!

So ... download the generic base tune again. load it into TS, and then save it to the board. Then configure Engine Constants and save again, and then .... give it a crank. :)

And cpost the tune for confirmation.

Do you have a wideband connected for O2?
#71275
WBO- its a long story. I purchased a 14point7 SLC free 2 in 2019, when this idea first got underway. Around the same time I purchased a Bosch 4.9 sensor from Ali Express (turns out it's not a real Bosch) For lots of reasons nothing happened and the WBO sat in the box until recently, the project resurrected. Assembled the 14point7 and it didn't work. Research showed that 14point7 shipped some SLC Frees that were incorrectly programmed, right about the time I bought this one. At the time Alan To offered free replacements . Not expecting much I enquired a couple of months ago (ie 5 years after the purchase!)
and was very pleased to receive a replacement board at no cost. Excellent customer service from 14point7. Research also showed that 14point7 does not support any sensors other than genuine Bosch, so the reading I am getting from the SLC free could be right or it could be random. I do have a genuine Bosch 4.2 so I am going to try that and see what happens.

Will try your suggestions and post the results. Putting the carb back on is looking increasingly attractive :-)
#71276
"Once more into the breach..." ok downloaded Speedyloader again, run EEPROM clear, loaded firmware 202501.1, installed on Mega, downloaded and installed "Speeduino Generic Base Tune - stock".
Start a new project, then work through the differences between this four cylinder and my single cylinder engine. VE table is as generated by tools - 1000 rpm idle is about what it used to be on carb, kpa is a guess as I cant get the revs that low in current form. Engine redline is 7500, HP I've allowed 40@6500 and torque 35@5000, based on rear wheel HP charts I've seen for one of these. Spark table is based on standard ign timing of 10@1300 -> 30@4000.
I had to manually input the startup/idle settings as the base tune has temps of -40 for everything - I have altered to be basically 100% fuel at temps that are normal for here.
I didn't get to try running the engine. Last night as I was looking at the Polulu driver board and attempting to probe some pins, I shorted between a couple of pins and a little spark ensued. It appears I fried my Speedy NO2C board. The Mega fires up ok and I was able to upload the tune etc, with the NO2C uplugged from the mega, but with Speedy plugged in, no power light on the mega and U1 gets really hot quick (on the NO2C) D4 is showing a dead short. Needless to say I didn't get to try the LSU 4.2 either. New tune attatched, no log
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By LPG2CV
#71295
Been a good while since I have done this, so from memory (and an old one at that :lol: ). And not had my first cup of coffee yet!

When there is a difference in tune in TS to that of the controller, it asks which one to update. Copy the controller to eeprom, or vice versa. I do wonder if when asked to update TS or the controller, you are updating the wrong one!

The reason I say this is because there are some values in the tune that the user cannot enter or alter, and this is why it is necessary to load a base tune rather than just key in values.

So for the moment, don't worry about eeprom clear or the firmware, try loading the tune again until you get the desired default settings as seen in I/O Summary
Attachments
Your Default Settings.png
Your Default Settings.png (44.04 KiB) Viewed 13438 times
Base Tune Default Settings.png
Base Tune Default Settings.png (42.83 KiB) Viewed 13438 times
#71296
Thanks for the update. I have replacement zener diode on the way (none available that I could find in New Zealand, one of the downsides to living in paradise on the other side of the world, but Digikey will have some here next week). Meanwhile been fitting the Mega/NO2C to a case and trying to find a permanent location for it, probably up behind the fairing by the headlight. I'm hoping the length of vacuum tube from TB to there, about 1 metre, wont affect things too much . I also need a loom connector, no more than 16 pins (ie never going to need launch, boost, VVT, second ignition or cam sensor, etc) sealed or at least splashproof - any suggestions?
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By PSIG
#71300
PeterJones wrote: Sat Mar 22, 2025 9:11 amI'm hoping the length of vacuum tube from TB to there, about 1 metre, wont affect things too much .
To calm your fears, tests involving MAP hose to over 30 meters (100 feet) showed no negative operational effects. Put the ECM anywhere in the vehicle that is most appropriate. 8-) The usual concern or desire is to use a wired remote MAP sensor, e.g., manifold-mount, versus an ECM MAP sensor. Take your pick.
By LPG2CV
#71303
You can also buy hard vacuum hose. it's about the thinkness of a wire and has some flexibilty. I used it from my manifold to inside the car. I strapped it to the wiring harness. Just need rubber connectors each end.

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