Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
By Tassuperkart
#68170
Hey all

After a long gestation, the injected 360 Bultaco road race replica is finally completed.

The EFI system has been tested by spinning the trigger wheel in the lathe and offering up the VRS sensor mounted in the toolpost.
Everything worked as it should at a minimum of 50 rpm and a max of 1500 rpm
I let the system run like that for over an hour and fiddles around with VRS wiring to see if I could incite some mis- triggering etc but even my ghetto spec 2 meter long extension wires to reach from the bike loom to the lathe, simply twisted and taped and then draped around the engine, wiring looms and importantly next to and actually laying on the ignition coil couldnt incite a mistrigger or reset so thats a good start.

Im currently using a Delco D585 "Truck" (LS-2/LS-6) smart coil. It produces a very strong spark on a long(ish) dwell time of 4.5 Ms but this is a low revving engine at 7500 rpm hard limit so no issues.

The stepper driver board works fine and set the GM style idle stepper and on power on the valve runs fully open, closed and then returns to whatever number of steps commanded.

The last thing I need to test before lighting a fire in this thing is alternator output voltage stability driven into an Ultra-capacitor bank Im using as a battery. Voltage regulation courtesy of a Shindengen MOSFET rec/reg.
The "battery" ran the entire electrical system for about 10 minutes after about a half minute charge from a 5a DC power supply so sufficient reserve capacity to get the thing running
The EFI system is only drawing about 2.2 amps with the fuel pump running less about 7 amps at 4.5Ms per spark event and the 220w 3 phase alternator should keep the system alive as the engine will idle around 2000 rpm

Im hoping to borrow a roller starter this weekend to do voltage checks and set primary ignition offset and its then time to add some fuel and light it up!!!

I took it out to a vintage and classic bike show a couple of weeks back.
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By Tassuperkart
#68184
purplelightning wrote: Fri Apr 26, 2024 4:12 pm Nice to see someone working with a pipe two stroke. Is the battery lead acid, or something fancier?
Cheers mate

"Battery" in this thing is a 16v ultra capacitor bank. I did this due to space constraints/packaging and light weight.
The ultra caps hold system voltage with all the lights on for about 10 minutes after a quick zap from a 12v/5a power supply.
plenty enough time to power the fuel pump and electronics for starting.

I did some testing of that alternator output yesterday on the roller starter and alternator output into the caps is quite steady and clean which is a relief.
I wasnt sure how the MOSFET rec/reg would behave driving into the very low internal resistance of the ultra caps.
By Tassuperkart
#68186
Alternator testing.
Its a 3 phase circa 200w alternator off a Chinese scooter modified to fit the engine and a Shindegen MOSFET rec/reg to control the show.
The "battery" is an ultra capacitor bank rated at 16v. basically a handful of "C" size cells joined up and shrink-wrapped in a nice and compact package.

As you all know, clean power supply is crucial to reliable ECU operation and I wasnt sure on the response of the MOSFET regulator driving into such a low impedance load.

I spun the engine over on a roller starter for about 30 seconds at probably around 1500 rpm, alternately witching the lights on and off and ocilliscopes the battery voltage which remained quite clean and stable.
At this relatively low rpm, Id expect some ripple but the ultra caps do a pretty good job of smoothing this out with only a few Mv of ripple. I dont expect any dramas there.

The ultra cap pack is very light and compact but a downside is they self discharge over a short time (think a week or two) and dont have a great deal of reserve capacity.
This isnt as much a pita as it sounds as due to the extremely low internal resistance, the cap pack will charge almost instantly directly off a car battery or a few minutes on a battery charger or just leave it connected to a small solar battery tender when no ridden.
Once running, the caps will accept whatever output the alternator can make so recharge fully within a few minutes of starting.
I have an external charge point wired up just in case.

That said, todays task is to set trigger offset angle and lock the alternator rotor up in position then check locked ignition timing and its ready to crank up.
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