[GolGT86]

Your idea was almost my final paper at my mechanical engineering college hahaha. I did a long study on how to put the SC in the engine of my Dodge 1800 Polara (Brazilian Hillman Avenger).
The magnetic pulley can be used via a customized output activated by a TPS load. You can use the WMI outputs as bypass control, including using the WMI advance delay as a way to slow down the SC input, etc., and you can use the VVT ​​as on/off for the pulley.
Boost control remains normal as in a turbo. Unfortunately, I was only able to do the ignition part, with a detailed study on the advantages of using a mapped ignition on an old engine with the good old SU touching fuel, and then the entire fuel part with a manifold made with long runners, etc. SC was left out... My plan A was to use SC + wmi! Then I would just go to SC, but for personal reasons I didn't have time to come up with the original idea for the work!

[huramentzefix]

Dude, use whatever you think will work best, or whatever you like, for any reasons you like. This is not an argument of which blower is awesome or crap - it was(?) a discussion of general points, principles, and perspective to approach your stated goals in different ways that could help in best success. Well, it was for me, anyway.

My story of the Samurai was not a social discussion or "do it this way", but to begin looking at the pros and cons of real-world results of similar projects and goals, and how one or another approach worked well (or not) and why.


That info might be helpful to your project. From this, is there a way to configure your SC to be even more effective with your needed boost profile? I have other projects I have done that are also similar, that could be of interest to you for how they worked better or worse, and could benefit your project success. An LQ3 5.7L low-rpm boosted street truck comes to mind that held a lot of lessons for me.

I don't care what you use, but I hope you succeed. You do not need to be defensive about your favorite stuff, as I discuss on technical points and merits, not which one you like to pet. I would appreciate if you are going to argue instead of discuss, that you get more general facts right, or accept other ways they could work that are not typical. I don't argue what color people like, but I'll discuss what colors might have benefits for a purpose, if you see what I mean. Having done a lot of this stuff for many years, I try to help users help themselves to get to where they are happy, quicker and/or better. Well, that's my intent anyway, and that does not appear to be happening here. Let us know how it goes.

[huramentzefix]

[huramentzefix]

I am after low end torque, I don't want HP.
I appreciate your input and love a good discussion but a turbo is not giving me what I am looking for.
I am after something that makes my car strong so that it pulls my trailer well, I don't want a racecar. I need Nm not kW.

[PSIG]

Do your thing, and I'll leave you to it, but your examples were set up for higher rpm hp, which is not what you're after. The LQ3 I built was into full boost by 1800 rpm, and held boost until it hit choke at 4300. 1800 is only 150 rpm above cold idle on that engine. The boost curve was similar to my graph.

It's how you set them up, which is not how you will find others setting them up, so using references like that will be misleading. I 'm not pushing turbo (I use SCs too), but demonstrating how there are configuration options that may fit your goals you may not be considering by focusing so hard on one option. Good luck with your project.

[EdMcGuirk]

If you look at cars that have superchargers with clutched pulleys, you will see that they also have bypass valves. (like my MR2) The bypass valve does most of the work and the clutch gets the last 5 or 10% of the non boosted efficiency.

The existing bypass valve should open whenever any vacuum is present after the throttle (or when the pressure after the throttle is lower than before the throttle if you are boosting before the throttle). You could add an auxiliary bypass valve to kill boost with wide open throttle (for high RPM) or you could depend on the freewheeling supercharger impellers to induce a vacuum when the clutch is disengaged. (that seems inefficient to me) Either way the bypass valve must open whenever boost is off.

A positive displacement supercharger like the eaton should produce relatively constant boost at all RPM except for very low RPM and very high RPM where the supercharger is naturally inefficient. This should produce a relatively constant torque increase across the rpm range. My MR2 produces exactly 8 PSI of boost from just under 2000 RPM up to around 5000 RPM where boost will begin to fall off unless it is a warm day and the intercooler is failing to cool the intake charge (in that case the boost pressure and boost temperature go up) (although exhaust back pressure also gets reflected back into the intake pressure).

Therefore knock is most likely at low RPM. Danger of engine damage actually goes down as RPM goes up past the engines unboosted torque peak RPM. Or saying it another way, the danger comes from how much you increase the torque, not how much you increase the HP.