[CAnAm]

Cheers Dave(?), I'll check that out.

Have your sensors (CLT, IAT, MAP, O2, etc) each been properly calibrated?
- To keep as simple as possible I used all common GM sensors for basic functions. The O2 is a "AEM X-Series Wideband 02 UEGO Air Fuel Ratio Gauge Kit 30-0300" which isn't in the TunerStudio list so I had to do the manual inputs. As far as readings go I am assuming they are accurate as no unexpected readings.
What trigger sensors are you using, and where are they?
- Triggering off of a brand new TR-S Magna/Diamante distributor, I wondered if it was faulty so bought a replacement HALL sensor https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/334878008057 . Turned out it was my settings which I have settled on:
Pattern "Dual Wheel"
Base Teeth "4"
Trigger Speed "Cam"
Trigger Angle "10" (See comments in your Q "total Ignition Timing")
What is the rated flow of your injector, and at what pressure?
- BRAND: Fit Nippon Denso/ FIT Toyota)
Part Number: 1001-87092 / Sard: 63564
TYPE: Side Feed Injectors
Flow Rate: 133lb/hr / 1400cc /min at 43.5 PSI
Resistance: 11.5 ohms
Injector Dead Time: 1.60ms at 12v
Confirm this is a 2.6L Astron engine?
- Correct
Do you know your base or total ignition timing?
- I couldn't find any info in the WIKI or WWW on how to set timing for Speeduino, found a couple of YTube examples and settled on "10" in Trigger Angle when the timing light and Speeduino correlated. I have noticed in "Spark Settings" tab there is also a "Cranking Advance" which is set at "5", but don't know if this means my timing is now 15 or? Again, couldn't find any explanations in the WIKI.
Did you begin your tune by modifying a Base Tune, or from nothing?
- base as supplied with https://www.everythingfuelinjection.com ... p161480124 .

Seems I've lost all spark again so I have to go through wiring/relays/fuses and see what's happened. Frustrating after having it running for about 5 mins

[PSIG]

What trigger sensors are you using, and where are they?
- Triggering off of a brand new TR-S Magna/Diamante distributor, I wondered if it was faulty so bought a replacement HALL sensor https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/334878008057 . Turned out it was my settings which I have settled on:
Pattern "Dual Wheel"
Base Teeth "4"
Trigger Speed "Cam"
Trigger Angle "10" (See comments in your Q "total Ignition Timing")

I'm not familiar with that distributor signal pattern, and your CSV file is not readable in my MLV. The primary (crank) signal sounds to be 2 signals per crank rev, 4 per 720° cycle. Can you say what the cycle ("cam") signal is?

Did you begin your tune by modifying a Base Tune, or from nothing?
- base as supplied with https://www.everythingfuelinjection.com ... p161480124 .

I did not find a base tune there, and I don't know if one was loaded on the ECM as-delivered. I would suggest starting with a Speeduino Base Tune (from SpeedyLoader), and add your settings to that, to make sure a basic setting somewhere wasn't missed and pooching the whole show. You can copy or export/import for tables to save some time.

[CAnAm]

@PSIG
Thanks David,
OK, I've got my ignition back.
(Cannot get it to work with the VR Conditioner but that will be testing for after I have it running and tuned - for now I need to focus on making it a mobile car again LOL)
Also need to go and buy a bigger battery charger tomorrow - I'm just killing the battery even with it connected with all the cranking.
Spent all day Sunday re-reading the Speeduino "manual" again but didn't pick up any tricks.

Because I'm "old School" playing with carbies and vacuum distributors can you confirm some thoughts I am having with the software as I can't find any answers - or it's just not sinking into my grey matter
Can you confirm:
Startup/Idle -> Cranking Settings -> Cranking advance Angle(Deg) "value"
- is this only when cranking
- does it get added to Settings -> Trigger Settings -> Trigger Angle (Deg) "value"
- does it get added to Tuning -> Ignition Advance Table "value(s)" (assuming not as this table only kicks on 500+RPM??)
So, following that logic path.....
To set initial timing (old school) with vacuum line removed;
Step 1 confirm TDC test light or timing light,
Step 2 set BTDC with timing light & lock/clamp dizzy,
would translate to (Hall effect non vacuum EFI dizzy) Speeduino steps:
Step 1 - Startup/Idle -> Cranking Settings -> Cranking advance Angle(Deg) "0" (confirm with timing light - lock/clamp distributor)
Step 2 - Settings -> Trigger Settings -> Trigger Angle (Deg) "desired value" (Confirm with timing light)
Then when running that value gets added to Tuning -> Ignition Advance Table "value(s)" .

Is my logic on the right path or completely flawed ?

[PSIG]

OK, I've got my ignition back.

Can you confirm:
Startup/Idle -> Cranking Settings -> Cranking advance Angle(Deg) "value"
- is this only when cranking Cranking Advance - yes, only at cranking (over 50 rpm and under start threshold rpm) it should be only that value.
- does it get added to Settings -> Trigger Settings -> Trigger Angle (Deg) "value" Added to TA - no. TA is set FIRST to tell the ECM where 0° TDC #1 cylinder at compression (sequential) or either TDC (batch/waste-spark). Once it knows where zero TDC is, then it can add 5° for Cranking Advance from there, or whatever you command.
- does it get added to Tuning -> Ignition Advance Table "value(s)" (assuming not as this table only kicks on 500+RPM??) No, as above, TA sets zero, and when running above cranking threshold the Spark Table provides current timing value from there. Running, it will fire at whatever (interpolated*) timing is in the current cell. If the timing table cell says 14° (and no other corrections, cold timing adders, etc), it should be firing #1 spark at 14° with the timing light.

Trigger Angle (TA) is often called trigger offset, from sensor location at TDC to tooth #1. When the ECM sees Tooth1, it knows TDC is x° (360 – TA degrees) away. Trigger Angle can be either a positive or negative value (-360 to 360) in order to allow a TDC offset anywhere in a 720° cycle. TS 120 is the same as -240, but two strokes earlier/later (1/2 cycle TDC).

* Interpolation - a scaled value from one cell to another. If one cell is 10, and the next cell is 20, the interpolated value running between the two cells is 15. If the engine is not operating dead-center of a cell, the value may be different, depending on each cell's value. Interpolation is why we don't need a zillion cells like some other systems. The 20+ year-old MS v1.01 ran many very high-power engines, using only 8x8 (64 cell) interpolated tables. That's only 1/4 the size tables we use.

So, following that logic path.....
To set initial timing (old school) …
would translate to (Hall effect non vacuum EFI dizzy) Speeduino steps:

STEP 1 - Settings -> Trigger Settings -> Trigger Angle (Deg)-> Set estimated degrees offset from sensor to Tooth1.
STEP 2 - Startup/Idle -> Cranking Settings -> Cranking advance Angle(Deg) "10" (or whatever yours would be). Cranking can be any degrees, and should roughly match with timing light while cranking.
STEP 3 - Start engine, establish warm smooth running, and re-test for Spark Table value matching timing marks with light. Adjust TA until it does.

Then when running that value gets added to Tuning -> Ignition Advance Table "value(s)" . Trigger Angle results in zero TDC. Timing then duplicates value in Spark Table. Confirm with timing light.

Is my logic on the right path or completely flawed ?
[/quote]Just a bit out of sequence. If you have that in your head, then this other method should make sense: "Brick Timing Setup" (simple as a brick) :

1. Set Cranking Timing (example 10°).
2. Crank with timing light. Do you see the timing marks?
3. No = change Trigger Angle by 90°. Do you see the timing marks?
4. No = repeat change Trigger Angle, until you see both marks.
5. Adjust to Cranking Timing marks (10° in this example) with timing light.

This is very similar to mechanical distributor setup, using TA and/or twisting the distributor to alight timing marks.

I'm just killing the battery even with it connected with all the cranking.

I wouldn't do that. Electronics hate humming battery chargers and can do weird stuff to ECMs. I would jump another battery/car or wait for charge. For setup, you can reduce power drain and cranking speed cycling (compression) by pulling the spark plugs, and collectively grounding all the plugs or plug wires. I zip-tie them all together and to a block ground. The smoother and faster cranking also makes setting cranking timing more accurate.

[CAnAm]

@PSIG
Hi Dave,
Thank you so much for your assistance.

Things I will have to do:
- Hook pump to a separate battery until I get the car running properly - it is eating too many V's
- Find a larger alternator - I think the standard Sigma one is about 30A.

Had it running for a short period again. Same as last time: as soon as I go to attach vacuum/boost line she stalls out.

In the log:
- Running is about 890s
- Playing with the vacuum/boost line is about 1020s

Observations.
What is "Sync Loss" related too?
- I see it steadily climbs to 255 and then resets to 0
- Is this losing the pulse from the dizzy? If so would:
- Settings -> Trigger Settings -> Trigger Filter "ON" &/or Re-sync Every Cycle "YES" improve that?
AFR is 9/10 while VE is averaging 70 & MAP is 70
- Once I start to slide vacuum/boost line on it goes into vacuum state and VE goes to 40 & AFR stays pretty constant
- then as it settles the AFR starts climing as does the advance until it plateaus at about 30 advance 40 VE 11.6 AFR
- then the AFR runs away to 16 and it stalls. If I'm quick enough and pull the vacuum/boost line I can recover it then try again and the same thing happens.

Thoughts.
In the line of "Only change one thing at a time" I am wondering if I should lock the advance and see what effect that has:
- Spark -> Spark Settings -> Locked Timing -> Enable.... "On" & Fixed Angle (Deg) "20"
Then maybe set VE for 1200-2500 to "40"
Basically trying to find what helps stabilise it so I can keep it running.

[PSIG]

Had it running for a short period again. Same as last time: as soon as I go to attach vacuum/boost line she stalls out.

I noticed you have no corrections for dead time or voltage corrections. I would change this in two steps. I don't know your injector spec's, but most TBI injectors are fast, and ones I've used are generally around 0.6 to 0.8ms at 12V. So, Step 1 I would change Injector Characteristics > Injector Open Time(ms) to 0.7, as a test. If that's better, then also change the Injector Voltage Correction table to get something in there. No, it won't be right, but hopefully closer than it is:



I would also enter some "idle" level fuel in the cells only used as it starts, I call transition cells. This avoids weird fueling as the engine tries to start. Something like this, that you can modify as-needed for quick and smooth startups. I do similar stuff to the same cells in the Spark table:


Finally, it's very hard to "hear" in a video, but while it seems to have fueling issues, it also sounds like an ignition issue. I would pull and clean the plugs well to ensure they're firing properly without fouling on them. Do a web search for some tricky ways to clean fouled plugs.

What is "Sync Loss" related too?
- I see it steadily climbs to 255 and then resets to 0
- Is this losing the pulse from the dizzy? If so would:
- Settings -> Trigger Settings -> Trigger Filter "ON" &/or Re-sync Every Cycle "YES" improve that?

Yes, the signal is lost and confuses the ECM, so synchronization is lost. Where the signal is lost can be several places, from the distributor, wiring, connections, PCB, or even a mist-match of the code decoder or a simple low-voltage at some point. This is why I enable all the little gauges in MLV, so I can keep an eye out for anything weird or twitching that could be a clue, when I play the logs back.

Yes, you can try settings and filter changes. If the issue is not signal dropout, then it may help. If it is signal noise, it may help, but we would strongly prefer solving the noise source than to fight it with software. I usually approach sync issues by collecting more clues to guide my direction. The settings, then probing the signal wires and Arduino/uC input pin, etc, until I find something to chase.

In the line of "Only change one thing at a time" I am wondering if I should lock the advance and see what effect that has:
- Spark -> Spark Settings -> Locked Timing -> Enable.... "On" & Fixed Angle (Deg) "20"
Then maybe set VE for 1200-2500 to "40"
Basically trying to find what helps stabilise it so I can keep it running.

That's a good mind-set for diagnostics. The more info you have, the more guidance you have, and closer you get to answers or fixes. Try stuff based on previous test results or logical relationships, and continue combining the resulting signs you see until a picture forms of what's happening. Keep going!

[CAnAm]

@PSIG
Thank you Dave
I will do some 'probing'.

Injector Details:
BRAND: Fit Nippon Denso/ FIT Toyota)
Part Number: 1001-87092 / Sard: 63564
TYPE: Side Feed Injectors
Flow Rate: 133lb/hr / 1400cc /min at 43.5 PSI
Resistance: 11.5 ohms
Injector Dead Time: 1.60ms at 12v ---------- Have Injector Open Time (ms) "1.6" and Injector Duty Limit% "80"
MADE IN JAPAN
Listing / Price is for 6 injectors

[CAnAm]

Hi Dave,
Doesn't look like you can edit posts?
So in addition to above.....

Woohoooo - managed to get it to idle at about 13.5 AFR - still a bit eratic - still can't connect MAP line. Excited - it's a big step. Winning

Can't show a log file as it got corrupted and won't open.

Interesting
Being cam driven dizzy I had ;
Settings -> Primary base teeth "2" but what I did notice was that RPM was at least doubled. I set it back to "4" and things seem to settle down.
Also, Spark -> Spark Settings -> Enable Fixed/Locked Timing "20" does not lock timing at 20...it was still bouncing from 26-32 depending on what RPM it thought it was sitting on (RPM seems a bit shady) .
- Just thinking while I'm sitting here compiling thoughts, I may just set the whole spark table to "20" and see if that settles things down given the lock feature doesn't work.

Test
Out of interest I thought I'd try "auto tune" to see what VE number it thought was good for the RPM it was sitting at - that's when it got down to VE 26 and really seemed to settle and be a lot more stable - still can't attach MAP line even in Auto Tune.
- So may set whole VE table to "26" and see if that settles it down as well, and small changes from there.

Question[ - VE Table/b]
Below the table there are 3 prompts, which were set at .....
Multiple VE value by MAP ratio "Fixed"
- reading notes, should I change that to "Baro" - is that maybe why it flares and stalls when I try to attach MAP line?
Multiply by ratio of AFR to Target AFR "No"
- Thinking this should be a "yes"?
Multipy by ratio of stoich AFR/target AFR (incorporate AFR) "No"
- Thinking this should be "Yes"
- The one line eplanations in the "?" field isn't really conclusive

We're a lot closer today than we were yesterday !!

[PSIG]

Thanks for that. When you have better info, follow that info. Do you have voltage corrections available for your injectors? If not, find something similar, and for your ignition coil also. Some correction is better than no correction.

[PSIG]

Doesn't look like you can edit posts?

Correct. You can edit, but only for a limited time. This is to prevent SPAMmers from adding stuff to their posts later. Unfortunately, it also prevents us from updating info or spec's in previous posts, so readers must read much more to find later that the old info was incorrect. Sometimes they don't get that far and are frustrated as things aren't working. Double-edged sword. For the efficient transfer of info, I would prefer the editing remain open to users with higher post counts (20 or 100 minimum), but that's not my call, as I have no authority on this forum. Just a user like you, trying to help other users.

Woohoooo - managed to get it to idle at about 13.5 AFR - still a bit eratic - still can't connect MAP line. Excited - it's a big step. Winning

Yay! But something is still far wrong. Verify your sensors - including MAP - are still properly configured and calibrated for each of your specific sensors. Just the fact that your last posted log shows the MAP was reading 69 with engine OFF (ambient pressure); something is wrong there. Find and fix that issue FIRST.

Interesting
Being cam driven dizzy I had ;
Settings -> Primary base teeth "2" but what I did notice was that RPM was at least doubled. I set it back to "4" and things seem to settle down.

When you select Distributor, or "cam speed", it multiplies or divides automatically. Don't try to out-think it, unless you are doing something unconventional.

Also, Spark -> Spark Settings -> Enable Fixed/Locked Timing "20" does not lock timing at 20...it was still bouncing from 26-32 depending on what RPM it thought it was sitting on (RPM seems a bit shady) .
- Just thinking while I'm sitting here compiling thoughts, I may just set the whole spark table to "20" and see if that settles things down given the lock feature doesn't work.

OK. This is yet another function that is not working right for you. Perhaps you have a corruption or bad setting in any portion - TS, tune, the uC… somewhere. It isn't this hard. Really. It almost begs for a complete re-do of everything, with minimum changes to a standard Base Tune. I would, and it doesn't take that long.

Have you tested New Ignition Mode = Yes?

Test
Out of interest I thought I'd try "auto tune" to see what VE number it thought was good for the RPM it was sitting at - that's when it got down to VE 26 and really seemed to settle and be a lot more stable - still can't attach MAP line even in Auto Tune.
- So may set whole VE table to "26" and see if that settles it down as well, and small changes from there.

OK, that says your VE at idle would be ±26, in the MAP/RPM cell correct for idle. Have you tried setting the whole lower-rpm area of your VE table to 26 and plug the MAP in?

Question[ - VE Table/b]
Below the table there are 3 prompts, which were set at .....

• Fixed
• No
• No

The documentation is missing a small amount of important info. Just set it this way for this project.

We're a lot closer today than we were yesterday !!

Indeed, but it seems you are fighting something amiss. Injector spec's? Actual fuel pressure? Dwell settings? One big thing we've missed, or a combination of little stuff that adds-up? Fortunately, as you struggle you are also getting clues for what's wrong. At this point keep going to find that big clue, or start over. It's your call. Best of luck to you!