[5peedmanual]

I've been chasing this for a long time now and can't get to it.
I tried Baro off , Baro On , Fixed, with AFR and without AFR.. I remove all corrections from the equation, VE High, VE low I even discovered that the closed current ADC value of the Throttle changes the rpm... Advance angle never goes past 0 I needs to be pulled back so the RPMs don't increase
Anyone has this?
Next thing i'll try is placing inj open time to 0ms and required fuel to 0 also. Just going to use VE from the equation. Next thing is double check the throttle position if it's pulling too much air.

[jonbill]

Sounds like you've just got too much air. Where's it coming from?
If you set required fuel to zero, you'll definitely have no fuel injected.

[5peedmanual]

Sounds like you've just got too much air. Where's it coming from?
If you set required fuel to zero, you'll definitely have no fuel injected.

Throttle body gasket needs replacement but it has to be from the speeduino, the problem. Stock ECU idles right.
Hm, from the formula
PW = inj open time + required fuel + corrections + VE

[jonbill]

No, its not +, its *

[jonbill]

Pw = (rf * ve * corrections) + opentime

[jonbill]

Does it have an idle control valve? Maybe the oem ecu closes it and your speeduino tune doesn't.

[Rednaxs60]

Sounds like you've just got too much air. Where's it coming from?
If you set required fuel to zero, you'll definitely have no fuel injected.

Throttle body gasket needs replacement but it has to be from the speeduino, the problem. Stock ECU idles right.
Hm, from the formula
PW = inj open time + required fuel + corrections + VE

Good morning. Have been down this road and still a novice. Installed Speeduino ECU, had issues, reverted to OEM ECU - all's good. Had to be Speeduino, incorrect. I thought as you that it would be an easy tuning and be on the road in short order with all features enabled. It appears you are doing changes without knowing what the relationships are or what each does, BTDT.

The OEM ECU is calibrated/tuned for the engine components without any input from the operator. Having mentioned this, you are now the OEM and need to setup all parameters one at a time. Do you have the data for all the components? If not experimentation is the name of the game.

How did you set the initial ignition timing? Did you set the trigger angle with locked timing and the cranking angle to "0" degrees? If the cranking angle is not set to "0" degrees, it will be added to the fixed locked timing value, and throw the ignition timing and trigger angle out of whack.

The VE table cell values are a percentage of the total air volume of the engine at 100% and WOT. A VE table cell value of say 44 represents 44% of the 100%. The RF value is multiplied by this value in the PW calculation to determine the RF value in the PW calculation plus all other additions, hence the VE Table being referred to as a fuel table.

The issue with any DIY aftermarket ECU is you have to start with the basics only, then once tuned as well as possible, start adding in additional features to get to the final result. I have learned that there is no quick process to get to the end.

Go back to the beginning, start a new tune. disable all non-essential features, especially O2 sensor - don't want AFR table affecting initial engine tune. Set initial trigger angle using OEM idle timing value - cranking angle to "0" degrees at same time. Go for a start, set idle at engine operating temp, adjust VE and ignition timing for best idle (lowest MAP reading). Time for road trials. The tuning process starts.

I wanted the same quick process, played with a lot of settings/features, had to be something with the tuning software, but it wasn't. I would surmise that what is happening is a result of how TS has been configured. Would recommend going back to the beginning and start again.

Don't rush it, will go faster.

Good luck..

[5peedmanual]

Pw = (rf * ve * corrections) + opentime

right no fuel. So I started raising RF bit by bit, saw PW raising and trying to crank. At around 3.5 ms PW it started and RPM stayed at 500. Ah and oh throttle was open a little bit by too much
So ye all good now
thanks for the help

[5peedmanual]

Sounds like you've just got too much air. Where's it coming from?
If you set required fuel to zero, you'll definitely have no fuel injected.

Throttle body gasket needs replacement but it has to be from the speeduino, the problem. Stock ECU idles right.
Hm, from the formula
PW = inj open time + required fuel + corrections + VE

Good morning. Have been down this road and still a novice. Installed Speeduino ECU, had issues, reverted to OEM ECU - all's good. Had to be Speeduino, incorrect. I thought as you that it would be an easy tuning and be on the road in short order with all features enabled. It appears you are doing changes without knowing what the relationships are or what each does, BTDT.

The OEM ECU is calibrated/tuned for the engine components without any input from the operator. Having mentioned this, you are now the OEM and need to setup all parameters one at a time. Do you have the data for all the components? If not experimentation is the name of the game.

How did you set the initial ignition timing? Did you set the trigger angle with locked timing and the cranking angle to "0" degrees? If the cranking angle is not set to "0" degrees, it will be added to the fixed locked timing value, and throw the ignition timing and trigger angle out of whack.

The VE table cell values are a percentage of the total air volume of the engine at 100% and WOT. A VE table cell value of say 44 represents 44% of the 100%. The RF value is multiplied by this value in the PW calculation to determine the RF value in the PW calculation plus all other additions, hence the VE Table being referred to as a fuel table.

The issue with any DIY aftermarket ECU is you have to start with the basics only, then once tuned as well as possible, start adding in additional features to get to the final result. I have learned that there is no quick process to get to the end.

Go back to the beginning, start a new tune. disable all non-essential features, especially O2 sensor - don't want AFR table affecting initial engine tune. Set initial trigger angle using OEM idle timing value - cranking angle to "0" degrees at same time. Go for a start, set idle at engine operating temp, adjust VE and ignition timing for best idle (lowest MAP reading). Time for road trials. The tuning process starts.

I wanted the same quick process, played with a lot of settings/features, had to be something with the tuning software, but it wasn't. I would surmise that what is happening is a result of how TS has been configured. Would recommend going back to the beginning and start again.

Don't rush it, will go faster.

Good luck..

More or less . You can pull a tune with wrong variables but that doenst make a good tune, so you should aim for setting as good as oem ecu. I spend like a month with idle bc I wanted to have a solid base before I moved to the next step. I havent even riden it yet really just trying to get a good idle.

Did it all bought a timing gun to confirm trigger angle, AFR helped to know where to aim regarding misture but at some point just got me more confused. But anyway lots of research (ive built a personal database for my car ) and lots of experimentation and ye a some point I was just messing with the program bc I was running out of options
Turns out it was the air and I actually checked once this just wrongly

thanks for the help

[PSIG]

Did it all bought a timing gun to confirm trigger angle, AFR helped to know where to aim regarding misture but at some point just got me more confused. But anyway lots of research (ive built a personal database for my car ) and lots of experimentation and ye a some point I was just messing with the program bc I was running out of options

Let me try to simplify it a bit, so you can focus on what you need to do:
Tune to performance.

Use diagnostic tuning, based on data feedback. Diagnostics are simply using engine feedback to seek "better". If feedback of indicators is better, go that way. If indicators say it's worse, go the other way. Simple. Now you need to find and see those indicators. Some describe it as looking for 'happy'. What makes the engine happy right here?

The internet is full of smart people suggesting good stuff, but sometimes from the wrong direction, or chasing a different goal. Cart before the horse. For example, suggesting to target x.x AFR for idle. Maybe yours doesn't like that AFR. Let's find out. A better idea— we need to go back to how they tuned carburetors, by performance results.

From a stable warm condition, make an adjustment to fuel, or air, or timing, and note if the idle improved (better performance). Let's try fuel first. Adjust fuel in the cell it's idling (+) or (-), and check results after a few moments. Adjust air to maintain target rpm as you go. If the idle performance decreased, try the other direction.

Did the idle improve? Did the rpm increase? Did it become more stable? Did the MAP reduce? Yes to any indicator of improvement - keep going that direction until it no longer improves, or even gets worse at that same rpm, then back-up to best. Find that best point.

Stop. Now try a different adjustment. You've done fuel and air, now try timing. Repeat seeking performance. Go the 'better' direction until it no longer gets better. Stop. Make other adjustment (if needed) based on indicators.

It should be running very well at that target idle speed. Repeat the process with the new settings to see if there's more hiding in there. Let's leave it there for now, and move to the next step, which could be warm-restart settings (prime, cranking fuel, ASE), based on those new and good idle settings.

Always tune for the performance you seek (power, stability, response, economy, emissions, etc). Note the timing, Lambda or AFR, etc, when you find it in each area. Keep going!