[LAV1000]

You might try to set secondary trigger to falling.
Take a log and see if synclos is gone.

[Rednaxs60]

You might try to set secondary trigger to falling.
Take a log and see if synclos is gone.

Secondary trigger is set to FALLING, doesn't like RISING. Tried switching the cam signal wires, no joy. It is definitely trying my resolve.

Looked at the plugs after a test this afternoon, very dry. Thinking injectors not firing. Wiring is good, don't know how to test injector circuit just yet. Will peruse the forum threads.

Using a different Arduino Mega for the next trial. Thinking a fresh tune can't hurt.

[Rednaxs60]

This weeks work is to revert back to OEM configuration, take some scope traces of the cam and crank sensors. Time to go back to the beginning and start fresh. This has got to work.

[LAV1000]

When starting a fresh tune;
1 ignition timing !!!
Make sure spark happens where you want it, and setting in speeduino is exactly the same.
So the spark advance in speeduino is what you see with a timing light.

Make toothloggers, composite ones, since you have crank and cam signals.
Tooth loggers also show sync losses.
No point in start tuning when ignition doesn't work like you expect.

To make it easier on startermotor, get the sparkplugs out but keep them connected to ground.
Also disconnect fuelpump, we don't want flames outside the cillinders.

[Rednaxs60]

I hear you. Timing is paramount. Going back to the beginning and start fresh. So many unknowns with an older FI system, especially this Honda CFI system, no specs, trial and error. Honda did some good voodoo with this system.

Looked at one of the tooth logger charts. The profile fits the cam sensor wheel. Wonder why Honda needed such a long cam sensor pulse.

[Rednaxs60]

When starting a fresh tune;
1 ignition timing !!!
Make sure spark happens where you want it, and setting in speeduino is exactly the same.
So the spark advance in speeduino is what you see with a timing light.

Did a flower pictorial of the timing marks. Seems 135 degree trigger setting is the start. Comments?

Timing for trigger Setting.jpg (169.79 KiB) Viewed 621 times

[PSIG]

Close enough to crank (plugs out and grounded, FP off) and see what TA needs to get spot-on. If you can see the timing marks at any crank angle, you don't even need to calculate. Just set fixed cranking timing, crank it and watch the marks, make some TA adjustments until the marks line-up at the correct cranking timing.

Don't forget to unlock your timing when you're done.

[Rednaxs60]

Have been browsing the various forum threads regarding trigger wheel setups. Have a good idea of what I want to do.

The dual wheel setup is not an issue even with the bare minimum tooth count. Thinking the cam sensor trigger wheel is not optimal for the Speeduino.

Found web site regarding VR sensors and the recommended design of the trigger wheel compared to the sensor being used. It recommended the trigger wheel tooth/teeth be approximately the same width as the pole pin of the sensor. Not trying to overthink this issue, but is it possible that the drawn out cam sensor signal is giving Speeduino grief. Like the energizer bunny, keeps going and going, and so on. OEMs do weird and wonderful things in the design of such systems, Honda has a very unique CFI design for its third iteration of the CFI system.

First iteration, 1982 CX500 Turbo, second iteration 1983 CX650 Turbo, third iteration 1985/1986 Gold Wing Limited Edition/Special Edition - injected (SE-i).

Just thinking.

[LPG2CV]

The dual wheel setup is not an issue even with the bare minimum tooth count. Thinking the cam sensor trigger wheel is not optimal for the Speeduino.

The main issue is the dimple in the middle of the Cam. Works fine as intended with Honda ( I like Honda ) Does not work well with Speedy.

Not sure you will ever achieve being able to revert from one system to the other without mechanical alterations.

[Rednaxs60]

My thoughts as well. Thankfully, Honda's got some good company in this regard.

Will be able to revert, but have to be aware that it may take a day or so. The next owner, not for a while though, will need to be an electrical engineer.

Have found a program on the Mac - Freeform. Used it yesterday and today to do a wiring schematic for an interim wire hookup - not the most advanced, but allows me to do a relatively good schematic. Doing continuity checks to ensure the pins are correct. Counted up the wires and there are some 21 wires needed for the new harness. Using the accessory fuse box for power and ground may help as well. Power needs to be from a switched source. This fuse box is grounded directly to the battery, not the bike chassis - maybe a little less noise on the ECU side, perhaps. Will be changing the schematic to reflect the actual install such as using an OEM MAP (PBR) sensor wiring for the O2 sensor.

New/temp wiring schematic:

New Temp Wiring.jpg (174.79 KiB) Viewed 494 times

The fuel pump relay, coils, and CFI main relay will stay as per the OEM wiring. The fuel pump and CFI main relays are part of the OEM fuse block and would be a bear to rewire. Spark units may stay the same as well. Bit more work to be done on the schematic.

On the Kawasaki ZG1000 EFI Retrofit thread, gpineau installed ferrite toroids on all the sensor inputs to filter noise. Interesting.