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By Wlad
#59745
PSIG wrote:
Tue Nov 22, 2022 3:44 pm
You certainly can run the VR signal directly to a signal conditioner on your PCB
Does the "Mini MAX A2" conditioner works OK with the GM Distributors VR output ?

PSIG wrote:
Tue Nov 22, 2022 3:44 pm
a separate coil driver will be needed
I suffered a lot with my GM trucks, all the 7/8-pin Ignition Modules that I can find near me are crap "Made in China",
and I keep having trouble over and over again with them :evil:
I'm willing to make my own ignition "coil driver" pcb just to have some piece of mind...
Is there any diagram that you know, that will work with the e-core coils of the GM HEI ignition system ?
By Izzy46
#59749
I have suffered too with these ignition modules, I think this will be my forth module in around 100 hours of boating. The local boat mechanic always checks this first if a boat fails to show spark.

I'm also interested in going down the DIY coil driver in the future. I don't know of any that are in production at the moment though.

For now I'd like to get the boat running in a basic format before looking into a coil driver.
User avatar
By PSIG
#59757
Wlad wrote:
Wed Nov 23, 2022 7:24 pm
Does the "Mini MAX A2" conditioner works OK with the GM Distributors VR output ?
I've only tested the MiniMax-A2 once on a GM HEI distributor VR pickup, but it worked well.
Wlad wrote:
Wed Nov 23, 2022 7:24 pm
I'm willing to make my own ignition "coil driver" pcb just to have some piece of mind...
Is there any diagram that you know, that will work with the e-core coils of the GM HEI ignition system ?
Yes, search here for coil driver and igniter circuits like this. I used to build my own for fun, but it is so much easier and typically more reliable to use a factory unit. Any of the many modules out there in the wrecking yards or online, such as the J121, J701, PRW-2, or Bosch "034", etc.

The J121 is one of my favorites (random example), as they are everywhere (usually found on single-coil Mitsu, Suzuki, Ford, Mazda, Mercury, Geo, etc. pretty much late '80s to late '90s) and I've never seen one fail. All typically under $20 online, or next to free (with connector) at the wrecker's. I have collected a box full of them, as they are the simple and easy solution, for me anyway. If no connector, use 2.8mm spade connectors or just solder the wires to the pins. :lol: Also multi-channel ones for single or multi-coil setups.

BTW - @Flood posted a GM 8-pin HEI wiring example here. Again, the power ground is through the mounting holes, so get good ground there - and use heat sink paste on the metal back to the mount to get the heat out.
User avatar
By Wlad
#59815
PSIG wrote:
Thu Nov 24, 2022 6:23 pm
but it is so much easier and typically more reliable to use a factory unit.
Thanks for the idea, I will take a look at them...
PSIG wrote:
Thu Nov 24, 2022 6:23 pm
the power ground is through the mounting holes, so get good ground there - and use heat sink paste on the metal back to the mount to get the heat out.
Things I learned about the GM 7/8-Pin modules over the years:
- always wipe clean and get a fresh HeatSink-Paste under the module
- always add a wire to the module GND bolt, and route the wire direct to a good and clean engine ground
- always use new spark plugs, wires, cap and rotors; if one of them fail, the spark may "jump" to the table inside the distributor, damaging the ignition module
- always check the connector of the ignition module, the terminals may get hot and melt
- (hard to do in 2022) avoid ignition modules "Made in China"
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