Speeduino is now on Github Sponsors (Rather than Patreon): https://github.com/sponsors/noisymime
Anything not specifically related to the Speeduino hardware. Eg sensors, bluetooth, displays etc
User avatar
By PSIG
#57611
JanKovalski wrote:
Sat Oct 16, 2021 10:12 am
I can't believe no one brought this version before:
I think you already answered yourself, that the added expense and clumsy use of a USB-UART adapter is not worth 3mm. :?: Did you find any other benefits to it?
User avatar
By DeeEmm
#57612
They are functionally identical to the larger board apart from the serial USB interface. However I think that they are NLA as I tried to buy some a short time ago and could not see them listed any more.

They are simple to program via the ICSP with a pogo adaptor but that is not for everyone of course.

If 3mm is that much an issue it's probably better to go custom SMD, there's a LOT of space taken up by pin headers.

/DM
#57622
PSIG wrote:
Sat Jul 02, 2022 10:28 pm
JanKovalski wrote:
Sat Oct 16, 2021 10:12 am
I can't believe no one brought this version before:
I think you already answered yourself, that the added expense and clumsy use of a USB-UART adapter is not worth 3mm. :?: Did you find any other benefits to it?
The CH340G-less version is out of stock now while the one with CH340G is widely available. I ended up just removing that IC and it solves the bluetooth issue. And it's really not that bad solution because I expose a single 4 pin socket for comms and now I can choose if I want to plug in a USB-UART cable or a bluetooth module - I wouldn't install it inside anyway because the case is full metal and would block the radio signal.
User avatar
By DeeEmm
#57624
It's pretty trivial to make a bluetooth aerial. You just need to match the aerial length to the signal wavelength or a multiple thereof. From memory it's something like 25mm. So simply solder a wire to the BT adaptors Aerial 'track' and run it through a hole in the enclosure making sure that you have exactly 25mm of the wire sticking through on the outside. I simply tie a knot in the wire inside the case to set the length. It often improves the range over the PCB printed aerials, which are always a compromise.
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