Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
#50032
hello, first post, so im restoring a mk2 scirocco k-jet 8v and as im working on the body work ive dicided to run speeduino, i will get post up of progress for you guys to see soon! ive started collecting parts for modern injection and testing them, but run into an issue with my speeduio 0.4.3 and my hall sensor cherry GS 100701, ive got the jumpers set to hall and the pullup resistor set to on like the data sheet says to, data sheet says 1k ohm at 5v and i belive the board is 1k aswell,

this page is what i borght, and has link to data sheet
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hall-eff ... s/7659321/

i have connected brown (vcc on datasheet) to pin 13
blue (ground on datasheet) to pin 12
black(output) to pin 25

ive tryed both rising and falling egde, as im testing with 36-1 trigger wheel(belive it should be rising,let me know if thats wrong)

tested with meter and can see 5v on brown wire to ground and 5v from blue(output) to ground,
when i stick a magent on the end the blue wire(output) goes to 0v

im asuming this is right and should be the high and low its looking for? but down even get a flicker on the rpm gauge on tunerstudio

ive ordeard a cheap osilascope to test, if that no good i can use my mates but hes a long drive away,plus ive never used one yet!

sorry if i sould like an idiot and this is a simple anwser, i have used serch and googled the hell out of it, but im determind to get this right! as have a few more projectes im working that would benifet from fuel injection(multiple classic motorbikes,cars and my beloved daily driver honda cd175) as much as i love the simplicty of carbs ive got to catch up with the year we live in! p.s sorry for the spelling.

any idears on whats to check/test, what signal speeduino is looking for? could it be 5v to 3.3v as my mate sugested?
#50034
Welcome, conor32! You're on the right track, but there may be some confusion. In your post for example, you say black (output) then later say blue (output). No problem, but keep it simple. With power (+5V) on BRN (brown), and ground on BLU (blue), only check signal on BLK (black) (output).

Do not use a magnet to test. Use a ferrous object (bolt, wrench, drill bit, whatever). That sensor already has an internal bias magnet, and using an external magnet can disrupt the sensor operation.

Watch the voltage signal on the BLK wire as you apply and remove the ferrous object. Properly connected and with the pullup on, the signal on the wire should switch from near 0V to near 5V in each condition.

Hall sensors do not have polarity issues like VR does, so you can choose either Trigger Edge setting, although Falling is generally recommended and what most wheels and decoders are designed to supply and read, and is the signal edge least effected by the signal filters built into most boards that use Speeduino (filters tend to distort the Rising signal edge). There are exceptions for certain decoders, but not generic configurable decoders, e.g., Missing Tooth or Dual Wheel.
#50037
thanks for quick reply, ahh good spot with the color coding, i will double check i have pluged everthing in right, im going to take my meter from work tomorow as it has more resolution, atm the cheap one in my shed just says 5 volt or 0 volts,
from what i recall it was 5v when nothing was next to it and 0v when tooth wheel was next to it, is that the right way round(dontthink it should matter though?) going to check i am getting some voltage and not zero volts compleatly,(dont worry the magent has gone back on the fridge! :lol: ) gunna add some labes to the wires to idiot proof it aswell, will let you know how it goes tomorow after work

cheers
#50039
conor32 wrote: Mon May 03, 2021 8:17 pm …going to check i am getting some voltage and not zero volts compleatly
When I say "near 0V to near 5V", that means approximately from actual 0V (ground) to +1V for low, and anything above about 3V to 5.5V for high. Arduino is looking for voltage thresholds. Typically real-world signals are near 0V and near 5V.
#50048
so had another stab at this, took the sensor off and re solderd it to test pins, put back on correct pins, i set it to basic dizzy and got rpm! set back to trigger wheel, and noticed half sync is lighting up, im guessing because the mount i made to hold the trigger wheel is offcenter and was just holding the senser by hand, so im chuffed its showing something, ill try making a better mount at work and test it in pillar drill,

next step finish making throttle body adaptor so i can mount a 1.8t throttle body ( has tps and bigger butterfly ) and wait for the plug for tb to set the tps up!

i best hurry up on the bodywork! thoght this side of things would take me as long to learn about and get working, but reliativly stright forward so far...

cheers for you help
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