Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
By DannyP
#48490
Bugster,

I have enough space for a distributor, just not a good one. The "009" has a crappy curve and inadequate accuracy, especially when running 10.2:1 static CR.

I have the 911 fan and shroud, therefore not a lot of space on a type1. Yeah, you can fit an "009" in there, or maybe an SVDA(with my marginal vacuum) but back when I built the car the Mallory Unilite was the only decent distributor available. Today, we have MSD, Pertronix, and CB Magnaspark. But none of them will physically fit in the space, the distributor caps and bodies are too wide. So back then in 2006 or so I went for Megajolt and installed it and never looked back. Superior spark, accuracy, and control of the curve is what I need and have without a distributor.

Today, I am merely using my already-installed VR sensor to fire a VW smart coil-pack instead of the Ford EDIS coil-pack.

There is nothing wrong with the VW coil, it was merely my lack of knowledge that burned it out. Hopefully others will benefit from my noob mistake.

David, thanks for your help and instruction. Eventually I'll get there, and because of people like you I'll get it sorted sooner. This whole laptop tuning and programming thing will get clearer to me with time.
By bugster_de
#48549
Michael1 wrote: Sat Feb 20, 2021 8:10 am So, what is the problem with the VW coil packs?
I thought they are the way to go?
eventually nothing wrong with these. I just fried of couple of them due to:
(a) there seem to be units which require 5V and others require 12V on the trigger pin. I have actually never figured out which is which
(b) to me it seems you can fry them when mis-configured (going-low, going high)
(c) I have fried one due to spark plugs not connected
As I use my cars a lot and also going places, road-side repair is an important factor to me. Hence I decided the coil pack is too fragile for me and hence went to classical coils, that I could get at a scrapyard, should I need it for road-side repair. Just my view on this. Again, nothing wrong with the coil pack, as others are using it with success

DannyP wrote: ... the Mallory Unilite was the only decent distributor available. Today, we have MSD, Pertronix, and CB Magnaspark. But none of them will physically fit in the space, the distributor caps and bodies are too wide.
Ah, got it. You're right, these dizzies don't fit the Porsche fan shroud. I'm running an old german 009 (original Bosch) for 30+ years now. Works flawless but eventually the aftermarket units don't work as well.
PSIG wrote:
DannyP wrote: Thu Feb 18, 2021 2:56 pm… I already purchased the paid version of Tunerstudio specifically to use the autotune feature.
There is always some confusion in the term "auto-tune". VEA and VEAL (Live; real-time) are auto-adjusters. They simply save time in doing all of the cell-to-cell adjustments for you with the instructions you give them, but are stupid as to what the changes should be and why. That's your job as the tuner, but there is help.

Not to throw more expense at you without cause, but TS is used for settings and adjustments, while MegaLogViewer (MLV) is for data analysis. The data can show you the "big picture" and can give clues to what to change and why, and is your window into how the engine is responding. So, TS with VEAL can help you get running OK quickly (better if you have big skills) similar to tuning a carburetor, but if you're serious about tuning well, sharply and quickly, MLV is by-far your most-used tool in tuning.

Note that tuning is a range of special diagnostic skills that require learning and understanding, and programs such as TS and MLV require their own training to use effectively. Be patient and committed, as there is no easy or instant solution to gaining the knowledge necessary to be a good tuner, anymore than being a good musician. It takes practice and constant learning. Other comments I've made are here and elsewhere. Good luck, but you can do this. 8-)
Good statement. Usually I'm not that precise using the words tuning, calibration, adjustment, etc.

The way I do it, which works ok with me:
(1) create the axis points for both Spark and fuel. I usually have more fine-grained steps in lower rpm / lower TPS / mid MAP to achieve good driveability
(2) ignition curve to be started with the Bosch 009 curve built in. Not ideal, but gets you started
(3) I have TunerStudio ve-Table generator generate a starting point for the fuel table. Again not ideal but gets you started
(4) road tuning with TS Autotune switched on. Foot on the brake, 2nd gear, very low RPM and one Throttle position. Then slowly release the brake, don't move the throttle and let the engine slowly work its way up in RPM. TS will do its magic and it does it best when slowly moving up the RPM ladder. Repeat that for every step of the throttle settings
(5) now with static calibration done, I have a look at the 3D view of the fuel map to see if there are major jumps from one set-point to the next. If so, this is the area, that needs a further look. Can also be done using MegaLogViewer
(6) now this is already a smooth running engine. Then move to the chassis dyno for spark tuning. Have one power run first and check the torque curve. Whenever torque isn't showing a smooth curve, try to increase spark (in 3 degrees steps) in this area and have another power run
(7) in case one is an anxious nature, you can now also switch on AFR control

I can of course provide ignition and fuel maps in here for a 1776 Type 1 and a mildly modded 2100 WBX engine in here in case there's interest.
By DannyP
#48576
Yeah, post maps. Maps are good. Thanks for the instructions Bugster!

I've been doing the new fuel plumbing, the throttle bodies, and throttle linkage.

I'm waiting on one part to get the fuel finished. Pump and filters are done, just need to attach the lines to the tank and make up 4 braided AN-6 hoses. Throttle bodies and linkage is installed. TPS, IAT, and CHT all installed.

I've got to run the MAP vacuum and run the injector and sensor harness(TPS, IAT, CHT), then I'll be ready to start it up.
By DannyP
#48675
I ran all the fuel lines and vacuum hoses. I terminated all the sensors and injectors at the ECU.Temp sensors, TPS, and O2 calibrated. I'm waiting on one plumbing part for the tank connections. The entire system is done except IAC and the tank.

I ran wires to activate a sequential shift light from the Aux outputs. How do I program them in Tunerstudio? Do I need to use the custom channel editor? I played with that but didn't figure it out.
By DannyP
#48677
A couple pics. I used the Megasquirt wiring schematic I found online.
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By bugster_de
#48687
that looks awesome!

What intake manifolds are you using? Looks like they are "flipped" with the injectors towards inside of the engine.
I started working on my 1956 beetle to go to FI (and away with rubbish spanish Webers :-)) and realized flipping th eintakes might help servicability a lot
By DannyP
#48688
Thank you. I actually enjoy wiring. The manifolds are CB Performance "Space Savers", makes the motor narrower by an inch on each side.

Autocraft dry sump pump, AN-10 lines feeding pump and sump scavenge, AN-8 on pressure side. Pauter 1.5:1 roller rockers, Webcam 86B, 44 x 37 Headflow Masters heads(Adrian Audirac), Mahle 94mm x 78mm stroke, 10.2:1. It does not run hot or overheat, runs 180-190 on oil temp. Jake Raby built it for me in 2002, I did new pistons and cylinders and valve job in 2018 after 40,000 plus miles.

Don't try these manifolds with carbs and a regular shroud, it's really tough to get to the mixture and bypass screws. But with the 911 shroud, it fits really nicely.

With EFI it's no problem, no adjustments to bother with.
By bugster_de
#48715
Holy sh.... Jake Raby monster in light-weight replica :-)

Intake manifolds are ordered. I do run a Porsche style cooling on my 1956 and I do have Victor Günther injection throttle bodies to go on them. These bodies are just millimeters away from the vehicle body so the space savers will help
By DannyP
#48718
If you have crossbar linkage, you'll need a shorter hexbar and the reversed air filter bases. CB sells a kit specifically for the space saver manifolds.

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