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#47703
^^ This. The probability that the PCB is bad is very low. The probability that components are bad is fairly low. The probability that soldering is bad is 100%, by appearance of many poor solder joints in the images.

So, I would agree to re-flow all of the solder connections. I have done this countless times on my own and other's work, and the simplest system I found is to brush good electronic rosin flux on every soldered joint. All of them. Both front and back. It will be very messy, so use gloves. ;) Then get comfortable (with magnification lenses/microscope, etc) and methodically re-flow every solder point, one-by-one from one side, until they are all fully re-flowed to proper appearance on both sides. Examples are available online. Most will not need more solder, and some may need solder removed. Your soldering tip must be kept clean and lightly tinned for this to work, the first time and any rework.

At that point you can wash the board with solvent, or toss it in your dishwasher for a cleaning, if you live alone. :lol: When dry, re-inspect and begin new testing. If there are errors, test each solder joint in the error circuit for function with a meter, and the component if possible, reworking as-necessary. For me, this has reliably been the quickest, easiest and cheapest path to success. Good luck!

David
#47710
Hey mate,
don´t be too hard on judging his work. I have seen worse made stuff that worked fine.

I´m not familiar with this board, so maybe point him to solder bridges. To me it seemed some parts where missing, like LED and an IC. LED often have a function beside from lighting on and off. Don´t leave parts out if you do not know what they do.
#47711
Chris Wolfson wrote:
Mon Jan 18, 2021 11:14 pm
Hey mate,
don´t be too hard on judging his work. I have seen worse made stuff that worked fine.

I´m not familiar with this board, so maybe point him to solder bridges. To me it seemed some parts where missing, like LED and an IC. LED often have a function beside from lighting on and off. Don´t leave parts out if you do not know what they do.
There are bridges all over.

The previous 2 posts cover things. It needs going over and to be redone.

The LEDs are indicators only. Nothing more.

Any missing part or item would not cause the Arduino to just not work. It will be a shirt on the 5V rail somewhere. Best place to start is the not great solder work and go from there.
#47714
Even as PSIG has not said it very diplomatic (could have been me, 20 years ago :oops: ) he is basically right and his advice is fine.
Anyway, soldering has become more complicated over the years. Not every lead free solder works well, nor do lead free parts take it as good.
I have a huge stock of 40 year old electronic parts, soldering these with my old German made"Stannol" Pb containing solder is much easier than doing the same with new parts and Pb free stuff.

@PSIG: not working, new parts are very rare, you are right, but you can damage them during install and soldering. Removing and reusing them triples this process and stresses the parts. I would avoid it, at least with inexpensive parts. Integrated circuits in DIYS deserve a socket, anyway.

Not anyone was born with a soldering iron in his hand!
#47715
Just something personal: I´m extremely anal about soldering quality. I can show of electronics I build 40 years ago, that still work. I´m no try and see guy, but insist on doing things once and right. Over the years I have learned that you can not expect such work from others, especially not car guys. This might be sad, but the Pareto Principle has taken over. So you have to be happy when someone does soldering SMD without a 100W soldering iron and a 3 pound hammer. In this field his work did not look too bad, believe me.
#47991
I had a somewhat similar problem with a 4.4c board when I plugged it into my Arduino that was powered by USB and hooked to TunerStudio. I found success by shutting down TunerStudio and disconnecting the USB. I then connected the Arduino to the 4.4c board, plugged in the USB and started up Tunerstudio -- in that order -- and everything worked. I understand the problem was some sort of reset issue involved in putting the boards together when powered.

A kind soul at WTMtronics gave me that tip...

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