Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
By Stars
#46096
Hello all! I am excited for my PCB and the kit to arrive.. I am going to be putting this in my 2002 Honda Civic to increase it's horsepower a bit, and hopefully make it more fuel efficient.

The idea is that I want to have a open source computer on my car so I can have complete control over what my vehicle does. I can do this with my personal computer at home, and my phone. So it would make sense that I would be able to do the same with my car! I will be building it from all the pieces and soldering it myself because I am gaining more experience soldering. I would like to get someone to 3D print a speeduino box for the board to sit in and I am probably going to mount it on the outside of my glove compartment for cool looks 8-)

I have been doing a lot of research over the last couple of months and I really think that I can do this with ease considering I have been working with electronics, open source software, and microprocessors experience. I have looked around at this community and I have to say it's pretty damn impressive in regards to how enthusiastic and motivated everyone is to making a cheaper alternative to overly expensive hacked ways to tune a car, instead of just making it tunable natively.

Anyway, as I am waiting on the parts, I was wondering if anyone can give me pointers as to how about I go setting this up in my vehicle. I know a couple of things already such as adjusting the timing angle, reading the crank gear tooth, and mounting the whole thing to the cars harness, but I don't know if there are any potholes in the way as no one has done this specific engine yet. So if anyone has any experiences on what they did with their engine it would be highly appreciated!

Thanks so much for reading my wall of text!!
By theonewithin
#46099
You need to be specific...

If you have read through the wiki and done the reading here you should know that experience in coding and microprocessors isn't not needed at all.

Any pitfalls you come across will likely be gaps in your knowledge which you won't know are missing until you try.
By Stars
#46107
Fair enough I never meant me knowing how to program microprocessors is, for the most part irrelevant in this project.

I'm more or less just checking with the community if there is anything I need to be aware of other than just hooking it up and installing the basemap. I'm going with that one that DCWEX used used on his d15 engine. I just don't really want to screw up my engine because I just dropped a new one in like last year.
By stum
#46108
As long as you connect up the important connections and get the wiring right....... It will start on the very basic map. Im surprised at how far you can be out with timing or other settings and it will fire up.

From My experence the most important ones to get right are the Trigger settings. And their edge........ Squirts per ......
Put a timing light on it and make sure you are seeing a stable spark (use the fixed timing ie 10')
Injector settings google will get you very close.
Few other sensors (TPS, Water temp and MAP line) and it will fire up and run. After that the more sensors the better it will run..... and then a Wideband O2 to tune it.

Good luck
By Stars
#46109
Thank you for the information! It's really helpful.

Is there an amount of time where it starts to hurt your engine when it's first started out of timing? Or what it sounds like if it's so out of time that it hurts the engine?

Thanks 0/
By stum
#46111
easiest way I have found is to set up your ign system, trigger wheel .........
either disconnect your injectors at the plugs, disconnect your fuel pump. Or set up flood clear (TPS required, and hold your foot flat) any of these options will prevent fuel being delivered.
And Crank. Timing light. Set timing ie Fixed 10deg (setting in tuner studio) Adjust to ie 10 deg. with offset settings
Timing sorted. I have run my engine at fixed 10 deg (BTDC) no problems

Then move on to fuel........
By Stars
#46226
ImageImage

Just a little progress update, my speeduino has shipped! In preparation I bought a old ECU from another car and I am going to use the old connectors so I can just swap back to my old ECU in case I have any issues.

I was reading around and I was wondering if anyone has input on wether I should put an adjustable cam gear to possible increase the performance a bit more. If anyone has any insight please let me know!
By LPG2CV
#46227
Get it running first on what you have. Add modifications one at a time if possible. That way if you get any issues, its probable its with the modification you have just made. :)
By Stars
#46940
Okay, so it has been quite a while since I have initially posted this tread. I have made quite a bit of progress, even getting the first """start.""" Although there are a bunch of confusions I am having with getting this to work, and will be going over all of them in this post!

For reference, I have been following this thread, also using the basemap from it: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=1323&p=20375

Again, this is the D17A1, but it is basically the same as the JDM D17 model besides a few small differences. And without the VTEC :(. I will post my configuration, and a couple logs of me starting my car so it is easier for people to investigate.

So, lets start off with the Pinout diagram:
attachment.gif
attachment.gif (18.34 KiB) Viewed 3974 times
Signal >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Speeduino pin name >>>>>>>>>>>> Honda pin name
Engine speed>>>>>>>>>>>>> RPM1 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>CKPS (A7)
............................................. VR1- >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>TDCS (A26)
Throttle Position>>>>>>>>>>TPS >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>TPS (A15)
Coolant Temperature >>>>>> CLT >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ECS (B8)
Air Temperature>>>>>>>>>>> IAT>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> IATS (B17)
O2/AFR signal >>>>>>>>>>>> 02 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Primary O2 Sensor (A6)(Narrowband)
Fuel Injector output >>>>>>> INJ1 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>FI1 (B5)
.............................................. INJ2>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>FI3 (B3)
.............................................. INJ3>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>FI4 (B2)
.............................................. INJ4 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>FI2 (B4)
Spark/ignition output>>>>>> IGN1>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> IG1 (A30) & IG4 (A27)
.............................................. INJ2>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>IG2 (A29) & IG3 (A28)
5v/vref output>>>>>>>>>>>>>Vref>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>SVS1 (A20) & SVS2 (A21) & IFPR (D1) & PFM-Fl1 (D7)
Sensor Ground>>>>>>>>>>>> GND>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>SG1 (A10) & SG2 (A11) & LG1 (A24) & LG2 (A23)
Idle Control valve>>>>>>>>>> IDLE>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> IACV (A12)
Fuel Pump>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> FP>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>N/A
12 volts>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>12v>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> PS1 (A2)
GND (Main Ground)>>>>>>>>GND (J3 connector with 12v) >>PG1 (A4)

Engine starts with least amount of RPM noise with TDCS in VR1- and Crankshaft position sensor in RPM1. As in least I mean minimal on medium filter. For the most part the RPM reading is consistent but when the engine is chocking out or starting then that's when the noise starts.

Throttle position, coolant temp, and idle air temp all work just fine. And as far as I know the O2 sensor is working okay too considering it changes when I am cranking. But none of them have grounds. and if they do they go then they would obviously be the sensor grounds which are taken care of if they are in GND anyway.

Fuel injection is obviously firing properly, it is in semi-sequential, and the firing order is wired properly I know for a fact.

Spark output is in wasted spark. They are all individual coil packs just basic 3-wire form. Firing order is also properly wired.

5v/Vref have quite a few things connected to them as the fuel pump immobilizer relay, and the PFM-Fl Pump relay both need to be supplied with 5v to power the fuel pump, so there are two wires per Vref output.

Sensor ground I have covered. But all of the main grounds are all spread out across the various ground connections on the speeduino such as GND, TPS, CLT, IAC.

Idle air control valve I have set to open loop, 500Hz. Although I am not entirely sure how to control that valve as I have not had time to properly research that. Who knows if that is what is preventing my car from actually idling above 500RPM...

Fuel pump is just not connected because it is automatically powered by the battery with both fuel relays being powered by Vref. This really was confusing setting this up.

12V and GND both work fine considering I have power. But I am not too sure about calibrating my voltage sensor, and only PS1 and GND1 are connected, so maybe that has something to do about noise? Maybe? idk.

Currently, I am waiting on money so I can buy tuner studio, a new female ECU harness because I stepped on it a while back and broke a bunch of pins off. I am also going to be buying a wideband AFR controller, but I still need to get the damn thing running first.

But I want to start with the main issue which is why I am getting so much noise with my VR Conditioner. If you look at this diagram:
c329e8ee-5d20-45e0-9c97-94152b805a37wrhn02civic006a.jpg
c329e8ee-5d20-45e0-9c97-94152b805a37wrhn02civic006a.jpg (162.9 KiB) Viewed 3974 times
It clearly shows you that the top dead center sensor, and the crankshaft position sensor grounds are both connected together and the colour of the wire is brown/yellow, and the ONLY two wired that are like that on the pinouts??? Logic ground (A23 & A24). Soo with that being said I tried to check for continuity from logic ground 1&2 to crankshaft position sensor, and top dead center sensor. They all make continuity, so one would assume that you put Logic ground in VR1- and then crankshaft position sensor in RPM1 (VR1+) BUT OF COURSE, do I get it to sync? NO! but if I just put the crankshaft position sensor out put in VR1- then it syncs?? There is some noise but the fact that is syncs is confusing to me, because how everyone else hooks theirs up it's way different.
So if someone could shine light onto this that would be great, because there must be something I am not getting...

The next issue, can someone explain to me how the required fuel calculations, and AFR works? Or send me a video where it is explained in full detail. I checked my engine, and I know for a fact that it is 1668cc, with 270cc injectors, and obviously 4 cylinders. This comes out to 10.4. Which is fine, but why then when I plug my stock ecu back in I have to clear the flooded gas out of the engine? Would that not mean I am adding too much gas? but how could that be if I followed tuner studios calculations?

Lastly, is my trigger angle, and spark advanced angle. Luckily the Honda D17 trigger wheel is supported naively which would make be believe that other people have successfully made my engine run on speeduino, but I can't find absolutely anything in the forum or online about anyone doing this, so I have no idea how this information would even have come to be on the wiki, let alone be supported by speeduino. Although I have found a couple posts about getting the D17 JDM engine running on megasqwrt and they where saying something about how a 14 degree trigger angle and 8 degree spark advance is supposedly the golden ratio for this engine. But it still seems like there are issues with getting it started, let alone to idle. But on the other hand I could have something else completely wrong that I just don't know about due to lack of experience working with the speeduino far, hence why I am posting for help.

Other than that I believe everything else is good to go the board works fine. I feel like the average person would quit trying around this time but I am determined to get this working. I know I can do it, I can't be that dumb...

Here is my latest map, although I can't really get any logs considering, again, I stepped on the old connector.
(72.47 KiB) Downloaded 164 times
By theonewithin
#46953
Are you sure they are VR sensors?

Is A 12V+ve and B -ve????

Looks like they are Hall Effect not VR?

You can't use MS timing offsets as its calculated differently.

To find the offset you use a timing light.

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