[jp_prat]

Hi
Thanks for replies! I have got now scope too, and i took some tests. I chopped one tooth off the trigger wheel, so it is now 12-2.

And with that i managed to get it running poorly. It was barely running, no matter was it lean or rich, when i tried to adjust fuel. I had to keep throttle half way open to keep it running, and then it would suddenly take rpm like crazy, and then sound like its knocking. and it sometimes did sound like its knocking on low rpm too.

So i took some pics of the scope while cranking, and that tooth log. How do you think it looks? Now the engine wont even start. It just sometimes tries to start and sometimes explodes in the exhaust like someone would shot a big caliber rifle next to me. Fucking annoying. I think ill put megasquirt to this really soon.

That difference in rotation speed that is caused by compression, was not present when engine was running, tooth log was even (in these pics its not even, because i took it while starting). Also it did not have sync loss when it goes crazy and breaks up and sound like its knocking. Those small blinking leds looked like they were on constantly when it break up.

[jp_prat]

Did look at your tooth log.
Since you have 12-1 wheel I suspect to see 11 lower pulses and 1 longer.
Bud it looks like you have twice the amount of teeth, 21 lower pulses and the 22th longer
Otherwise tooth log looks good.

How did you set filter setting on crankwheel sensor.
Lower compression shouldn't be a problem.

22-1 problem,
Could be 2 reasons I can think of.
1 like Johnbill mentioned, space between tooth to big
You need to get the tooth no tooth space even at the circumference, except the missing one of course.
2 Tooth are squared of at the top.
So it could be it only sees the corners of the teeth and not the straight spot in between.
Would be better to have tooth whit a radius according to the circumference.

When making a new toothed wheel get the missing tooth about 90 dgr. BTDC, that is missing tooth not sensor.

Hi I had no filtering for crank sensor. So should it be like 24-2? or something. Its not easy to design, have laser cut, then make mounts to fit the bike with lathe and tig welder.
I have some plasma cut trigger wheel that are pretty rough but they are 12 tooth, no teeth missing yet. They have about 6.5mm teeth and equal gaps. And those have rounded teeth as well.
I could try that if it would be good idea.
I have also one 26 tooth moped transmission gear, that i have tried as well and it did not work.
Only thing that has worked so i could ride the bike, was the 12-3.
If 12-1 is catastroply, 12-2 runs like shit. 12-3 is driveable, but breaks up. Maybe 12-5 would work perfectly Not really.. I dont know.

[JHolland]

It may be the way your scope is connected but your ground looks to be quite unstable. The input to the processor is a Schmitt trigger so you need to be close to 5V and 0V to get a reliable trigger, if that is an accurate trace then you have very little noise immunity. OEM ECUs generally use a comparator circuit on Hall inputs to avoid this issue

[LAV1000]

If it only could run on a 12-12 wheel

Did you try a 22-2 setting ?

I would go for the evenly spaced 12 toothed nice rounded wheel and knock 1 teeth out.
Some megasquireted hayabusa's also use a 12 toothed wheel.
Remember you have a motorbike engine which runs much higher in rpm than a car engine.
And I think almost 90% of EFI related stuff is car based and not so much motorcycle engines which run higher in rpm and low mass on the crank.
My point is you can get to much teeth, so speeduino or sensor looses count at higher rpm.
With 12-1 you have a more common type, so no risk of bumping into a software glitch.

Check injectors if they don't stuck.
Check Fuel Pressure, if it stays at pressure.
Make sure ignition is happening where you want it.

[Cristhian Romero]

Hi how are you? . Once the motor has run, did you correct the Trigger Angle? (may be one of the reasons why the engine runs so bad).
It is very important to make this correction every time you make a modification to the phonic wheel or sensor.
The latter if you are using a Hall sensor because the voltage is so varied in the oscilloscope reading? are you not needing some additional pullup?

Greetings from Chile

[LAV1000]

Looks like his scope is in a AC setting, also visible in the scope screen.
Don't know if he can set it to a DC setting.

[jp_prat]

It may be the way your scope is connected but your ground looks to be quite unstable. The input to the processor is a Schmitt trigger so you need to be close to 5V and 0V to get a reliable trigger, if that is an accurate trace then you have very little noise immunity. OEM ECUs generally use a comparator circuit on Hall inputs to avoid this issue

Hi, I am new to this level of electronics stuff and i was not sure/ forgot to check that the scope is on dc. I have new picture taken with it set to dc, that i post later. Grounds should be good, maybe that the scope is on the ac setting causes that? I mean i don't know very much about reading a scoper or what to search there to solve this Thanks!

[jp_prat]

If it only could run on a 12-12 wheel

Did you try a 22-2 setting ?

I would go for the evenly spaced 12 toothed nice rounded wheel and knock 1 teeth out.
Some megasquireted hayabusa's also use a 12 toothed wheel.
Remember you have a motorbike engine which runs much higher in rpm than a car engine.
And I think almost 90% of EFI related stuff is car based and not so much motorcycle engines which run higher in rpm and low mass on the crank.
My point is you can get to much teeth, so speeduino or sensor looses count at higher rpm.
With 12-1 you have a more common type, so no risk of bumping into a software glitch.

Check injectors if they don't stuck.
Check Fuel Pressure, if it stays at pressure.
Make sure ignition is happening where you want it.

I haven't tried it on 22-2 setting. Tried that 12-1 evenly spaced trigger wheel, and it did not work any different. I got it barely running couple of seconds
Yeah, this bike makes best power at 10k rpm, and the engine basically has no flywheel.

I have driven the bike this summer earlier when it worked somehow with that 12-3 trigger wheel, and injectors and systems worked fine, also fueling and starting was good. I have always checked timing with timing light and degree wheel on the crank, so it matches what i see on laptop. Fuel pressure is stable 3bar , i have measured it.

[jp_prat]

Hi how are you? . Once the motor has run, did you correct the Trigger Angle? (may be one of the reasons why the engine runs so bad).
It is very important to make this correction every time you make a modification to the phonic wheel or sensor.
The latter if you are using a Hall sensor because the voltage is so varied in the oscilloscope reading? are you not needing some additional pullup?

Greetings from Chile

Hi I am okay, thanks! I have corrected the trigger angle of course every time i changed something. I am using hall sensor yes. That oscilloscope picture might not be any good because it was on ac mode when i was measuring it. I put a new picture with it on dc. I am not sure about additional pull up?

[LAV1000]

If it did run on a 12-3 wheel what did you change ?
Did you ever use to much dwell on the ignition coils ?

Can you post a data log from a starting attempt.
Type of data log which needs Mega Log Viewer to open.