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#44399
Updates in red.
DeeeeC wrote:
Fri Jul 10, 2020 12:58 am
[3] Things I want to do:
[f] I will use the stock missing tooth wheel (at flywheel) for the CKP and adjust the code if needed to accept this.
No code changes needed as my car uses a 60-2 crank wheel.
[g] Make sure I still get warning lights on my dash and to use the stock dashboard Tach and Speedo. I will add a display for TunerStudio.
Choosing whether to use a big-as* monitor like Tesla or carefully sculpt a tablet into the stock dash.
Extract information from my stock ECU maps and apply them in TunerStudio to get close to stock before I do real tuning.
I have my map but haven't got around to dissecting it yet. I heard it can be difficult.
#44403
You need to measure the injector voltage and current. The DC-DC converter stage can be tricky if you have high current because you can get voltage sag with the turn-on transient, big caps help but can affect the stability. You may also find that you only need high voltage for the peak and then battery voltage for the hold stage.
#44461
JHolland wrote:You need to measure the injector voltage and current. The DC-DC converter stage can be tricky if you have high current because you can get voltage sag with the turn-on transient, big caps help but can affect the stability. You may also find that you only need high voltage for the peak and then battery voltage for the hold stage.
This is where I'm a bit stuck because my car is not starting so I can't just hook up a scope to see what it's like. I'm gonna have to do some bench testing unless I find some info. I found some 'scope traces for similar injectors, it's an interesting form, with a pre-charge, massive spike, high hold, low hold and then off. The stock ecu and spares are all dead - hence the predicament.

I'm thinking, put a spare injector in a jar of acetone and try out a few voltages with some well-insulated wires outside with a bucket of water for safety. If I have to resort to this. Bosch part number 46805546 or 0261 500 013.

I found a motherload of oscilloscope traces here: https://www.forum.alfaholicy.org/156/61 ... anguage=en which I need to read through.
#46513
Many thanks to Andrey and JHolland. Your posts have been very useful. I had a feeling 200V was too high and the body of the injectors looked more like a solenoid - this saved a lot of effort.

The events of the pandemic put me under a huge load of pressure (like everyone). I diverted a lot of personal and work resources to help make face shields and masks in a charity effort. I really super burned out on those efforts, and health took a nose-dive. My clients ended my work contracts and I've just had to divert all efforts to personal survival to be honest. So I'm sorry I've postponed my work on this until better days. I also started a business which made some great products but more than 10,000 potential customers have effectively told me they just can't afford anything non-essential. I can't blame them.

For now I hope this thread helps someone. I hope I can come back to it someday. You all rock!
andrey wrote:
Sun Oct 18, 2020 2:07 am
Bosch 46805546 looks like a solenoid (not piezo) GDI injector, the ECU case also looks same as 2006 2.0T Bosch MED9.1 ECU.

Those solenoid injectors need "only" 65v - rusEFI has a working board for this (which is really just a cheaper and smaller alternative to NXP dev board).

https://youtu.be/Ha29INY53Sk
andrey wrote:
Sun Oct 18, 2020 2:18 am
These two pics are pretty cool:

Image

Image
JHolland wrote:
Wed Oct 21, 2020 8:34 am
There is information on driving high voltage injectors here:

http://publications.lib.chalmers.se/rec ... 219127.pdf

I was one of the hardware designers on the the ECU discussed.
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