Any general discussion around the firmware, what is does, how it does it etc.
By noisymime
#43194
Ilotalo wrote:
Wed May 27, 2020 6:52 pm
DFCO problem. As you see at log that DFCO is not working right. When i press throttle first it works but next time it dose not work.
What do you have the DFCO delay set to? Is it possible that it's longer than the period you were doing the throttle blips at?
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By Broke4speed
#43196
noisymime wrote:
Sun May 24, 2020 10:44 pm
Broke4speed wrote:
Sun May 24, 2020 1:37 pm
Am I correct in assuming that this can only be used if VR2 is open?
You can use the secondary trigger input (if not otherwise used) or any of the other 'interrupt enabled' inputs. If you've got one of the newer boards with an Ethanol/Flex input broken out, that works well.
A straight open-collector pulse from the UAF2115 chip on the back of my cluster (from a 1993 Volvo 240) into the flex input with the onboard 2.49k pullup to 5v resulted in some wild fluctuations in speed at idle. It would jump randomly from 3-15kph, and increase proportionally while driving. I once saw 400kph! The filtering/smoothing didn't work, but I don't know if that's due to the signal I was using or a firmware issue.

The signal was perfect with a 330 ohm pullup to 12v on top of the onboard 2.49k ohm pullup to 5v, but that voltage would have killed my ecu pretty fast I bet :(.
By noisymime
#43197
Broke4speed wrote: A straight open-collector pulse from the UAF2115 chip on the back of my cluster (from a 1993 Volvo 240) into the flex input with the onboard 2.49k pullup to 5v resulted in some wild fluctuations in speed at idle. It would jump randomly from 3-15kph, and increase proportionally while driving. I once saw 400kph! The filtering/smoothing didn't work, but I don't know if that's due to the signal I was using or a firmware issue.
If you're seeing a speed reading at idle (And presumably stopped) then there is definitely something going on with the input signal there. There should be no pulses happening at all and hence 0 speed reading. Do you have a scope that you could look at the signal on that line with?

Just to rule out silly things, you don't have anything else assigned to that same pin do you?
The signal was perfect with a 330 ohm pullup to 12v on top of the onboard 2.49k ohm pullup to 5v, but that voltage would have killed my ecu pretty fast I bet :(.
Just reading through the datasheet for the UAF2115, it recommends a 680 Ohm pullup resistor on the 'taximeter' line. Can you try using a resistor around that value, pulling up to the 5v line?
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By Broke4speed
#43200
No sir, the eth pin is unassigned :).

I could try the 680 ohm, but the onboard pullup for the eth sensor would have to be removed. I'm using a CORE4 from DIY-EFI.co.uk, so I'd have to get the schematic from him, or at least the location of the pullup.

I tried using VR2+ earlier, with a 1k pullup to 5v, and got no signal, although that could be my fault. I want to try again, but skip ahead the VR conditioner.
By noisymime
#43205
Broke4speed wrote: I could try the 680 ohm, but the onboard pullup for the eth sensor would have to be removed. I'm using a CORE4 from DIY-EFI.co.uk, so I'd have to get the schematic from him, or at least the location of the pullup.
You can leave the existing pullup resistor in place, it will just reduce the overall resistance per Ohms law (IE 2.54k + 680 ~= 535 Ohm). Just make sure that they're both pulling up to 5v.
#43512
Those Improvements on PID closed loop idle are huuuge!

Struggling with BOSCH 2 wire rotary idle valve on m102 Mercedes. On hot engine idle drop was so bad. New firmware allowed PID closed loop control this valve!
By subzero
#43772
АлександрГусев wrote:
Tue Jun 09, 2020 6:18 am
Those Improvements on PID closed loop idle are huuuge!

Struggling with BOSCH 2 wire rotary idle valve on m102 Mercedes. On hot engine idle drop was so bad. New firmware allowed PID closed loop control this valve!
can you share settings for close looo idle?
I have the same m102 engine
And same idle valve i use original ecu to control idle :D
By SpartanSv
#43789
Fatman wrote:
Wed May 27, 2020 1:10 pm
Hello, I am absolutely loving Speeduino so far! I have been using a speeduino 0.4.3c in my Clio 1.2 turbo for 6 months or so. Had to make my own fly by wire controller which is a bit crude but works well enough for me.
I have an issue with the new firmware, in that tuner studio does not want to connect to it at all.

I usually download the arduino code and upload it and then add the .ini file to the tuner studio project.
This time it came back that the firmware version on the arduino was SP (whatever that means) but I added the .ini file anyway
It then failed the communications test and point blank refused to connect once the project was opened.
I tried this again with the same results and also re downloaded the firmware just in case. Also re installed tuner studio

I then decided to try using speedyloader, used the .ini file it downloaded. The results are largely the same except I noticed tuner studio looked like
it was trying to connect and failing (the progress bar came up and froze). I also noticed the
injectors buzzing away. I suspect that for whatever reason serial comms were being made and broken rapidly and the arduino was resetting continuously. After this I tried many things including creating a project from scratch, restarting the computer a few times also there were no further attempts made by tuner studio to connect.

After this I gave up and re uploaded 202002 which works flawlessly.
I have talked to my friend who says he has updated 2 cars with no issues..
So really I am at a bit of a loss with how to attack this next.
I should also say, this us using USB not bluetooth.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Regards,
James
I think I'm having exactly the same issue. Rolled back to the old firmware for now.

Anyone have any thoughts?
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By Broke4speed
#43790
I may have hit upon the same issue. I was out for a tuning run today and after stopping to do some tweaking...the laptop would not connect. After repeated tries, it eventually kind of connected but everything was a mess. My electrical system is in good shape with a steady 14.1v while cruising and a battery that's only a year old. At rest, the battery puts out a steady 12.2v. I had to swap ecus to drive home because I was running out of laptop battery and didn't want to risk a reflash.

I'm using a CORE4 ecu on a custom PCB header adapter I made, so I figured it was noise or something that caused the issue. I made a patch harness in order to swap back and forth between Speeduino and MS2 ecus, out of curiosity, and today it saved me from a tow home.

[edit]Yeah...it might be my fault. Doh.

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