Firmware live stream happening this weekend: viewtopic.php?f=13&p=43195
For any discussion not specifically related to your project
Haha love the horse parable David! Sorry for slow answer had exams.

But got some time to think about it and yeah its prob better to go full on from the beginning with the injectors without messing with the signals of the original ecu.

The two part though is that im rigth now running the carb "top" on the engine (had it for regrestration) and wanted to get the cops working on that before i switch back to EFI since im looking for a better flowing 4afe head then the first gen.

But yeah got a triggerwheel made and fitted, builded a sensor holder aswell when i redid my engine mount.
When i did that i also free up some place against the firewall and did some mesurements. It's space back there to cut the original dizzy and use the 24 theet weel and VR sensor. So for fulley sequential i need a cam sensor right?
So would that sensor work well tougther with the crank sensor? (which i bougth a hallsensor.)
I 3D-printed a 36 theeth with moveble missing tooth, it just curious if it holds up.

Can anyone point me in the rigth direction for some reading about dubbel triggerwheel sensor for squential on speeduino? :D
I would suggest you just get a single missing tooth wheel working first. Then go to sequential if you feel the need. Though I suspect you would not notice the difference.

As ingenious as your trigger wheel is :D , I suspect it will unfortunately, not be accurate enough. Speedy is constantly measuring the distance (in time) between the teeth. Any inconsistencies could cause issues in timing.
The hall effect (HE) sensor is looking for sharp cutoffs, either rising or falling to determine its square wave.
At the moment it may be thrown by the 'cups' in the tops of the screws.

I do like the approach though. :D
Yeah migth be a good idea, but i can put it there and see if i get values, do i only need a resetpin for cam or will the 24 tooth with one grinded out work well?

haha yeah the triggerwheel is abit of a trail and error, i have a oscilloscope here at school so building a small electric rotation to put it on trail to at least 2000 rpm! i anticipated that i migth not work but will give it a try :D

For the small valleys in the bolts, the hall says 5mm range, i hope it will eat up the small wallys otherwise i will try to grind them down a little :D

the approch is just bc im curious to see the limits of 3d printing, otherwise i will order a metal one :D
ceasar wrote:
Wed Apr 08, 2020 8:28 am
Printing in PETG. PLA wouldn't stand a chance in car environment. been trough nylon, ABS and some polymermixes but PETG is still surprisingly good.
Apart from the high chance of it going sufficiently soft to be unable to maintain its structure and thus affect your timing, my main concern with that is you've basically developed machine gun. If the structure of the wheel fails, or those machine screws did not bite into the plastic well enough (or if you used glue it doesn't hold) then you have a 35 slot weapon ready to shoot threaded bullets into your face or through the hood. I'm being a bit extreme but the risk is there.

Personally I would just fork out the cash and install proper hardware.
Yeah its the soft/flexing part plus the valleys in the screws im afraid of, but for 3 bucks its a fun test. Will prob buy a propper wheel later.

Even if a always wanted a machinegun this is maybe not it haha but the mass of the screws are very tiny, they are threaded and glued so only think that till make it break is the triggerwheel itself which is solid. By really rough calulations the rotational mass should not be able to rotate it a part as long im under 8000 rpm. Only thing im afraid of is shock damage.

But yeah im a student, so rather do it myself cheap and learn from the problems i bring myself, been a lot during my engineswap but its working good now :roll:
Hi @caesar

PETG goes soft when exposed to fuel oils etc, been there done that. :)
PEHD doesn't and I know this is just a cheap test and all, but printed flat like that with screws inserted into fingers, isn't the strongest way of doing this.

Hopefully, they've still got metal making machines in your school, so you can make a metal trigger wheel, as part of your coursework. :)

Sorry for the delay! Sadly my school are very strict on the machines due to insurance so cant do anything private :(
But i have ordered a metal triggerwheel! :D

I was curious though about if the dents in the screws would give problems so i went to the signallab at school.

It seems like the signal is stable, even though its a little bit of flutter on the top of the square?

And now to the stupid part.
Also i mounted it in the car again, and added som metal protective plates around it if it would break. it survived my max RPM of the car which should be around 6000. The question is just probably for how long?

But enough with the experiment.

I want to thank for the help in this thread! "it dumb to control two horses" so i will go with one :D
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