[LAV1000]

On the picture there is a rim on the flywheel/magneto.
Is it possible to turn it in to a tooth pattern, cut out parts of the rim to get a nice pattern?

[PJ1678]

This is a KLR rotor which has had a number of setscrews inserted (the rotor is mounted on a dividing head) Not my picture but its something i am going to try (I intend Speeduinoing my KLR) . Cant see any reason why the same technique wouldn't work on the Virago

[Lenny]

I will try to test a basic distributor setting on my current trigger pattern. I will use odd fire setting and 2 channel ignition.
Does not hurt to try does it?
If/when it does not work, I will modify the flywheel.

[theonewithin]

Can you let existing ECU handle ignition instead?

It will do a better job.

[Lenny]

Can you let existing ECU handle ignition instead?

It will do a better job.

existing ecu is DEAD

[theonewithin]

Worst that could happen is Speedy can't accurately control ignition and engine failure occurs.

Your best to sort out a higher resolution trigger before anything.

[theonewithin]

Have you got it all hooked up already?

You could test to see how bad it will be with a timing light.

Make sure you remove plugs and disable fuel system and ignition system before hand though.

Expect it to be terrible though as the Speedy will have to make some big guesses with such low resolution. Especially during acceleration/deceleration events.

[apollard]

It's worth noting that the original ECU had no more information than Speeduino will with this trigger. The error inherent in low resolution triggers can be made worse by and ECU, but they can't be made better. So, trying the speedy isn't a bad idea. But, expect sloppy timing on accel / decal - just like the original ECU would have shown.
I used an old GM ignition that had simple advance curves built in, and it showed lag and timing scatter on RPM changes. Speedy does much better, but I'm not using a high res trigger (8 teeth), so it can't be perfect.

[PSIG]

This is a KLR rotor which has had a number of setscrews inserted (the rotor is mounted on a dividing head) Not my picture but its something i am going to try (I intend Speeduinoing my KLR) . Cant see any reason why the same technique wouldn't work on the Virago

Agreed. The sensor only has to see a distinct feature change in the ferrous surface in order to create a sensor target. So, removing the bolts and just reading the holes (perhaps enlarged) would also do. Or slotting circumferential, or longitudinally (crappy doodle below); all done easily with a mill and dividing head as you show. 101 options. I don't have a photo, but I know of one where a strip of small bar-stock was slotted across almost through, leaving a thin strip between the uncut sections (▄_▄_▄_), then easily wrapped around the wheel/rotor and tack-welded (actually brazed), creating "teeth" without machining the rotor. Let your imagination go crazy.

David

KLR_Rotor.jpg (8.66 KiB) Viewed 6994 times

[panpan]

+1 for modding the outer rotor. I'd use a dividing head, and slot drill holes or indents of about 2-3mm , and worst case move the sensor in a couple of millimetres, or swap it out.
These sensors are the dogs doodahs, and can sense very small surface changes, and I make custom enclosures for my projects using them. This bottom pic is 18mm across and a 24-1 tooth pattern. They even can sense a cam lobe reliably too.