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By apollard
#23059
M.Itani wrote:
Fri Dec 15, 2017 5:25 am
i did get TS registered but i dont really understand the ignition logger it shows a graph with lots of bars that i cant make sense of!
As said the bars are the signal for each tooth. The height of each bar indicates the relative time from the previous tooth. IE, higher bars mean a longer time from the last detected tooth.
By M.Itani
#23070
On another subject i found a spare cps in my supra junk and i saw ppl (megasquirters) modified them by removing evrything and only keeping the 24 tooths and cutting 2 tooths out next to each other !

Would that be something to look into ?
User avatar
By PSIG
#23071
M.Itani wrote:
Fri Dec 15, 2017 6:44 pm
They are all the same height ! Doesnt really help much... the faster i spin it the higher the bars
The goal is to have bars of relatively even height, and even spacing, with no anomalies such as extra or missing bars, lines, etc. Then, taking a log, your RPM should smoothly follow input, without any spikes, dropouts, or loss of sync. If you find all is good there, it should run. As you move ahead adding more noise such as ignition, charging system, motors, etc. may bring new issues, but those would be separate solutions, knowing your trigger setup is good.
M.Itani wrote:
Fri Dec 15, 2017 6:48 pm
On another subject i found a spare cps in my supra junk and i saw ppl (megasquirters) modified them by removing evrything and only keeping the 24 tooths and cutting 2 tooths out next to each other !

Would that be something to look into ?
Yes, it is an option, but different from MS (again!). Speeduino has a unique function to allow missing-tooth wheels at cam speed, exactly for this situation, that also enables semi and full-sequential up to 4 channels (soon 6). :D So, if following that direction, you would only remove one tooth, creating a 24-1 wheel at cam speed. Remember, this mod is only reversible with a new distributor or 24-tooth wheel. Setup in TS would be exactly that. Also, your Trigger Angle will need to be set, depending on where your missing tooth is, relative to TDC #1.

David

24-1 Distributor Setup.png
24-1 Distributor Setup.png (9.81 KiB) Viewed 1428 times
By M.Itani
#23072
I see!! Very well explained everything looks gold. bars are good no signal loss! I also already started and drove the car around the block!

I do have 3 spare cps so sacrificing one for science is okay in my book ;)

Now the question : is 24-1 or 12/1 (what im currently running) better ??

I am for sure updating to full seq if it becomes available but i would love to run semi-seq for now at least to make it on par with stock ecu
User avatar
By PSIG
#23073
M.Itani wrote:
Fri Dec 15, 2017 7:27 pm
I do have 3 spare cps so sacrificing one for science is okay in my book ;)

Now the question : is 24-1 or 12/1 (what im currently running) better ??
Either method should be as good as the other. However, there has not been much field-testing with Missing Tooth (Cam), so if you are willing to try it also then your effort would benefit the community.
;)
David
By stum
#23094
Hi,

On My 3vzfe I have the following setup, I believe the dizzy's are similar.
This is using the standard dizzy to trigger, using standard igniter and coil

In tuner studio I have it set up as duel wheel.
Dizzy driven by Cam, and spins at 1/2 engine speed
setting = 12 teeth on crank (12 pulses per engine revolution) 24 teeth at 1/2 crank speed = 12
setting = 1 on cam (gets a cam signal every second RPM from G2 only. G1 earthed (in my case just not connected) triggered once per engine cycle ie on compression stroke #1 cylinder
Need to use both inputs on VR

Deg offset = 0deg
Cranking timing set to 5deg

My biggest issue was the Dwell timings, If you have these sorted. great. If not try these to start with.
Dwell = 4ms
Spark = 1ms or even less 0.8ms is what I am using.

On page 5 of this thread, #22031 my settings are the same as this, except I have it set to start after only 1 engine cycle, not 3. You will also see my other comments and a picture of my dizzy,

Hope this helps.
By M.Itani
#23110
im using g1 sensor in my 7mgte! i dont think it makes a difference

i also tried to ground the sensor i wasnt using (g2) and it made the Speeduino not detect RPM until i spin the CPS very high to like 2000+ rpms then it would work like normal and i can even go to 300 rpm and it would still detect! but if i keep g2 disconnected ECU picks up rpm from 100 rpm

what gives ? any explanations for that ? im thinking of just removing the sensor im not using all together
By stum
#23111
Hi,

I have not grounded my not used G1 sensor (as Im using G2) and it works fine (I think). I sometimes get some odd ball running (engine seams flat). but if I turn it off and on again it goes away. and seems to be ignition related. so you may be on to something

I would be interested to see if removing the unused sensor has any effect.

Regards
By stum
#23642
Hi All.

Iv been playing a bit more. and have taken the 3vz-fe out of the camry and put it in the new rally track. There is definitely a miss trigger issues. maybe every 2-3 starts, its off song, and some times back fires, which I expect is a cam trigger issue. And some spme times mid run it will go off song. much worse than when in the car.

Has any one found a fix, or is removeing the un-used cam trigger (G1 or G2) the current answer.

kind regards

StuM
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