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I posted on the FB pages and struggling to find a path towards an answer.

My car using a UA4C Fishdog from SpeedyEFI, I love it so much I bought another for a future project, and got a 3rd for a customer project.

Here is some back story. I have no previous standalone tuning, but some piggyback stuff with an AEM unit. I am familiar with tuning parameters, not exactly green, but not tech savvy one bit.

Last year I got it running on my car, a 96 Tercel turbo autoX build, using the existing batch injection & batch fire. I initially made a jumper harness to be able to go back to stock when I needed it to work. I had it working within a couple hours, but it took a few weeks of occasional messing about to get it driving. Once I started getting my head wrapped around it I permanently installed it by eliminating the jumper. All was well. The only change to the car was to a GM IAT so it can be screwed in. Car was running good. Started upping the boost, went to bigger injectors but then started running out of ignition at higher boost levels. Decided to go "all in" and while going sequential COP with VAG coils, I also made the injection sequential. Also implemented boost control.

This allowed an immense improvement in overall drivability. Car ran cleaner, smoother and just better.

Ran like that for a couple months, then the GT2554R turbo went bad. In a pinch I threw on a GT1548 I had but it overboosted to the moon regardless of wastegate setting, even off which should default to around 6-7psi it would moon boost over 20psi. So that sent the rods out.

Fast forward to xmas break. I rebuild the car with a gen1 bottom end with better rods and slight more compression, built a new tubular manifold, got a GT1752 turbo. I could not use the gen2 pump on a gen1 to retain the stock crank trigger, so I got an external 60-2 wheel and made a new mount for the original sensor. The mount is steel.

Got it running and retimed and it seemed ok. But then I had odd cutout at 3800 like a switch. Checked everything, 100times, tunerstudio, car, grounds, etc. The only real standout was slight runout of the trigger wheel. I minimized that and it seemed to help a little. Played with trigger settings, even switched to falling edge vs rising just to see. No real changes other then occasionally I can rev it out. Somewhere along the line I lost the 3800, and now it often in the 43-4800 range with the occasional 5200. Redline is 6300. I should note it does this regardless of load or throttle...strictly RPM. In the beginning it would nearly shut its just blips/breaking up.

Today, I thought well maybe its something else like dwell. Kicked the dwell up a little, revised the curve too to make it 100% at running voltage. No difference. Still does it. Meanwhile I have been retuning the car for larger injectors (with actual offset data) so that had improved idle quality with lights and fans. I have the tune pretty sorted out until the cutout issue. I have returned the main dwell back to where it was.

On top of all this, the tooth logger does not work for me at all, I even tried uninstalling TS with no change. Makes it really hard to diagnose this issue.
current tune
(10.76 KiB) Downloaded 27 times
lastest log
(141.25 KiB) Downloaded 26 times
Last edited by malibuguy79 on Wed Jan 18, 2023 6:30 pm, edited 2 times in total.
A possible cause is you have vss set to the same pin as the fuel pump.

//Pin mappings as per the UA4C shield
pinInjector1 = 8; //Output pin injector 1 is on
pinInjector2 = 7; //Output pin injector 2 is on
pinInjector3 = 6; //Output pin injector 3 is on
pinInjector4 = 5; //Output pin injector 4 is on
pinInjector5 = 45; //Output pin injector 5 is on PLACEHOLDER value for now
pinCoil1 = 35; //Pin for coil 1
pinCoil2 = 36; //Pin for coil 2
pinCoil3 = 33; //Pin for coil 3
pinCoil4 = 34; //Pin for coil 4
pinCoil5 = 44; //Pin for coil 5 PLACEHOLDER value for now
pinTrigger = 19; //The CAS pin
pinTrigger2 = 18; //The Cam Sensor pin
pinTrigger3 = 3; //The Cam sensor 2 pin
pinFlex = 20; // Flex sensor
pinTPS = A3; //TPS input pin
pinMAP = A0; //MAP sensor pin
pinBaro = A7; //Baro sensor pin
pinIAT = A5; //IAT sensor pin
pinCLT = A4; //CLS sensor pin
pinO2 = A1; //O2 Sensor pin
pinO2_2 = A9; //O2 sensor pin (second sensor)
pinBat = A2; //Battery reference voltage pin
pinSpareTemp1 = A8; //spare Analog input 1
pinLaunch = 37; //Can be overwritten below
pinDisplayReset = 48; // OLED reset pin PLACEHOLDER value for now
pinTachOut = 22; //Tacho output pin
pinIdle1 = 9; //Single wire idle control
pinIdle2 = 10; //2 wire idle control
pinFuelPump = 23; //Fuel pump output
pinVVT_1 = 11; //Default VVT output
pinVVT_2 = 48; //Default VVT2 output
pinStepperDir = 32; //Direction pin for DRV8825 driver
pinStepperStep = 31; //Step pin for DRV8825 driver
pinStepperEnable = 30; //Enable pin for DRV8825 driver
pinBoost = 12; //Boost control
pinSpareLOut1 = 26; //low current output spare1
pinSpareLOut2 = 27; //low current output spare2
pinSpareLOut3 = 28; //low current output spare3
pinSpareLOut4 = 29; //low current output spare4
pinFan = 24; //Pin for the fan output
pinResetControl = 46; //Reset control output PLACEHOLDER value for now
I'm not familiar with board installation. I just saw you had selected pin 23 for vss, and looked at the code to see if it conflicted. It would appear to do so. Was there an instruction to select pin 23 for vss?

This is not necessarily the issue though.
LPG2CV wrote: Wed Jan 18, 2023 9:31 pm I'm not familiar with board installation. I just saw you had selected pin 23 for vss, and looked at the code to see if it conflicted. It would appear to do so. Was there an instruction to select pin 23 for vss?

This is not necessarily the issue though.
I had messaged SpeedyEFI asking what pin was the grey w/purple wire was and I was told 23. I did not get much further then that. I do not fully understand assigning pins and stuff in a computer.
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Once FP is sorted… ;)
MAX9926-based conditioners have features to help with some level of wheel run-out, wobble, and damaged teeth. Test at various sensor clearances for best signal.

Just for a test, turn dwell protection Off and test for effects.

I would put coil dwell corrections back in, on general principle. If it runs differently or better with no corrections, the corrections were poor. What coil number?
I do not have a fuel pump issue thats the funny thing it comes on and primes as it should. This was a perfectly running set up (perfect as in no issues) all last year and now I have problems. Didnt change the sensor or wiring just the wheel.

I pulled the whole harness out tonight and just going to go over everything in the next couple of days to rule out that nothing happened when it sat for 4 months.
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