[ric355]

I just realized we posted the same pinout. I have some photos that I snapped and will post those up when I get back in the house. I am still trying to chase down what seems to be a vacuum leak of sorts, It's only pulling about 40-50kpa, so I wonder if its vacuum or something else. I will check timing now that I can knida get it to idle a bit (kinda high ~1500rpm), anything less and it starts to die out.

-J

It may just need tuning. MAP is representative of torque, and you can get poor torque if timing or fuel or both are not correct. So perhaps try tuning it more first. This is best done on a hot engine with the stepper closed. You can alter the tables and watch what happens to map in real-time.

[JOhMyGOD]

So I think my timing is still out, which I assume could be the reason for the low vacuum... And that was running... it what it tries to do when it's running, haha.

I put the timing light on it again while it was doing what it calls running and I didn't see a mark near the 10* at all... so I'm thinking I need to make more adjustments to get the timing back in spec...

I hear you... I'm biding my time right now as my daughter is 1.5yrs old...

-J

[stum]

yes when I put the engine back in my truck and fire it up, there are two things I check. First is the manifold pressure when it is running, as the gives me a good indication of if its good, and second is ign timing.

Once I have done these and they check out, I know im good to go.

If not its time to go looking for problems. And i have had a few of them. Once I had turned the engine backwards while changing the big ends (sump off only) and it had skipped some teeth on one cam. engine started and ran (not great) would back fire if you rev'ed it........... one cam was 180deg (crank) out. lucky they are a non interference engine

So might be a good idea to just do a check if you can not find any thing obvious.

Cheers

[JOhMyGOD]

The thing is, this engine has been rebuilt and ran off of the stock ecu just fine before I ripped the harness out and got down to the minimum... Kept all the wiring that I needed to run the ecu, nothing else... The donor car was an auto and the harness was backfeeding power wires and popping fuses due to the connectors for the auto trans being demolished and shorting out. So I know the car ran just fine (minus no muffler) before I tore into the harness...

Here is a video of a quick run to the gas station... Speedo cable is disconnected and tach is still reading the 4cyl signals.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XtIzi8ERNHI

-J

[stum]

I see your problem. your sitting on the wrong side of the car, and road.

One thing I have lured. take nothing for granted. Just because it did........... I have burned a lot of time on that one.

If you check you can tick the box and move on.

Cam timing. I have been 1 or 2 teeth out and it still ran. One whole bank way out. still idled and ran (bit rough)
IGN timing. I have been +30 deg over advanced or - 20 retarded. It would still idle and run.
Fuel. as long as it close(sh) it will run.
HT leads swapped on 2 cylinders.... still ran...

Other than the whole cam bank out by 180 deg, mine has started and driven.

Hope this helps.

StuM

[JOhMyGOD]

Hahaha, I think we here in the states say the same about the RHD drivers... Haha...

I hear that, and one of the first things I checked when I initially had issues was the timing. I put the crank at TDC and the cam gears both lined up with the marks on the rear cam cover. Everything seems in sync, I believe the issue has to be something else. Almost certain it has to be something in the tuning that I am overlooking, or something with the hardware... My FPR is sitting in free air, which I assume locks it into high pressure mode, and vacuum lowers pressure... Maybe it has to do with that... I am going to get back out there tomorrow and see what I can find. When I can get it to idle a bit longer I will check timing with the light and can really dial it in better.

-J

[stum]

Yes,

Your FPR will not be helping. Normal fuel pressure about 45psi (sh)
Vacuum will make injectors see more. 50psi + ==> more fuel. (10-15% more) or More.

your spark plugs will tell you a story if you have a look.

I have run my engine with the FPR not connected. but on E85, which is a bit more forgiving. was a bit rich

StuM

[JOhMyGOD]

I thought vacuum pulled pressure lower, and as it gets closer to atmospheric pressure it ups the pressure. From reading the manual, it seems the 3vz has a fuel pressure up solenoid which vents the FPR to free air which raises the fuel pressure to around 45psi. I will see if I can find the page in the BGB. But I did also try it with it connected to a vacuum source as well and it didn't change much of anything, but then again... That was when it wasn't running so hot...

Let me see if I can find that page in the BGB about the FPR...

-J

[stum]

FPR's job is to keep a constant pressure across the injectors. Normally 45psi I think on toyota. This makes it easy to calculate fuel, as flow changes with pressure.

at WOT you should have 45psi in fuel rail (or engine not running) 0psi inlet, 100kpa on speedie

at full vacuum (-15psi, 0kpa....) you will only have 30psi in the rail. but the injector still see's 45psi across it.

At boost +10psi. Rail at 55psi. Injector still sees 45psi.

The Toyota system you talk of removes the vacuum from the FPR and increases the pressure in the rail as it has no vacuum reference to bring it down (when engine is running). Helps with hot starts etc.......

[JOhMyGOD]

Oh, I get how it works. I was just saying that the FPR wasn't connected to any source, wasn't sure if that was causing issues. I've got quite a few things to check out when I get a chance tomorrow... Also, its time to wire up a WB02...

-J