[JOhMyGOD]

Hello Everyone,

I have been trying to figure out (maybe I overlooked something) how the stepper control works with Speeduino. I see the outputs labeled A1-A2-B1-B2, but don't know how they are being implemented. I am looking for something similar to: "Outputs are pulsed to ground in the order of A1,A2,B1,B2." or "They are pusled A1(negative) A2(Positive), B1(negative) B2(Positive) then polarity reversed for the next round." Am I complicating this in my own head or is there a lack of documentation on this?

I am trying to wire this up to a Toyota IAC valve with 6 wires (two separate Power wires). Schematic on it looks as such.



I have a Speeduino V4 UA4C with the DRV8825 Stepper Driver.

[stum]

Ok i'll have a shot at this.

When I wired mine there where some additional photos of the stepper winding's in the speedie doc's. but now I cannot find them.

As long as you have your Pairs connected correctly it will work (either in a forward or reverse direction).

Your Pair's in the drawing are ISC 1 & 3 and ISC 2 & 4. These go to speedie 1 A & B as one Pair and 2 A & B as the second

ISC 1 --> Speedie 1A
ISC 3 --> Speedie 1B
ISC 2 -> Speedie 2A
ISC 4 --> Speedie 2B

The cool thing with the newer versions is there is a check box to change directions if you get one of the slightly wrong.

You doing a 3VZ-FE?? I have one I have a thread doc'ed. Good luck

[JOhMyGOD]

Ahhh, I was hoping you were still around. I did see a few of your threads as I was searching. And yes I am putting together a 3vz-fe. I started this project a while ago and paused on it for about 9yrs, hahaha. I have an MR2 that I put the engine into and I am trying to finish up the project. I got it running with the factory ecu, but I wanted to clean up the wiring and also turbocharge it, but I will say I am contemplating going with a 2gr just because... Newer technology...

Any chance you have your files for the 3vz-fe? Looking for some starting points with trigger settings and etc.

[stum]

Ill have a dig around. Its had a number of different setups.......

Currently on 2jz injectors, E85 and a Evo X turbo at 0.3 bar boost.
Im upgrading the lower inlet manifold to get rid of those Air Assist Injectors, and mounting some 550cc subby pinks. and hope to wind the boost up to 1 bar (15psi) should take it to 350sh HP.

I would love a 2gr but the price down this part of the world is crazy.

Best thing I did for my build is got a ODB1 board and 3D printed a case. brilliant. made every thing so much better, cleaner and less noise. But as you can see, some of my early speedie setup was pritty loose.

I'll have a dig, but It originally started on the standard base tune, correct injectors size (220cc), and timing is so dependent on dizzy and mod's to trigger........

I have a 1MZ on the floor which may end up in a MR2. the boy is keen on doing one.

[stum]

Inlet mainfold with epoxy inserts for subby pink injectors. 14mm ID.

InletSubbyPinks.jpg (2.38 MiB) Viewed 5255 times

ODB1 Kit

NewBits.jpg (2.31 MiB) Viewed 5255 times

3D printed box all packed up.

NewBox1.jpg (2.11 MiB) Viewed 5255 times

NewBox2.jpg (1.88 MiB) Viewed 5255 times

[JOhMyGOD]

That's awesome! Sorry for the short reply, but I'm hanging with my daughter for a bit, she's just turned 1 a few months ago, so she requires a lot of my attention, Haha. But the setup seems to have come a long way. I was hearing a Honda v6 lower intake is pretty close and can help with getting rid of air assist. Trying to remember where I saw that. I'll be back after the little one goes to bed.

[JOhMyGOD]

Sorry for the late reply, my daughter just fell asleep (haha, kidding).

So I did some digging through technical documents that I had as well as FSMs and was able to dig up this little gem.

<Ignition Technical Document>


<Trigger Setup>


I am assuming that I can use this to determine the trigger pattern of the trigger wheel in the distributor. From what I see here, the G2 sensor gets a pulse right before Cyl-1 gets to TDC. From lining up the sensors, the next tooth on the NE wheel is at 0' TDC. So I'd set my trigger Pattern to Dual Wheel and Primary Base Teeth to 12 (NE =24 teeth @Cam speed, and would be 1/2 at Crank Speed) and the Trigger Angle to 0. I have my Skip Revolutions set to 3 to allow the motor to get spinning before attempting to start. I left both the trigger edges at FALLING (default, will switch one if the teeth seem to overlap. I left the Filtering at WEAK and have the Re-sync Every Cycle turned on (Yes). I figured this will get me close enough and I can rotate the distributor to dial in the timing (locked the Dist in the middle of its adjustment). If it is too far out of adjustment, I can just modify the Trigger Angle to pull it back in. My only concern at this point is that I wired up G1 instead of G2, which looks like its about 360'ca <-(Crank Angle) out of phase, so I am contemplating pulling the pin on G1 and swapping in G2, or just updating the Trigger Angle to fix the phasing...

I am wondering what value would be correct to fix the phasing. I think I saw somewhere that it takes values -360 to 360. I think for the sake of simplicity, I will just swap in the wire for G2 rather than messing with the math.

On another note, I also found some info on the Temp Sensors. I currently have the MR2 N/A Air Temp sensor and the ES300 3vzfe Coolant Temp Sensor wired up.

<Temp Sensors Resistance Charts>


I plotted 3 points that I thought would be decently spaced and temps I would possibly see and used those values to calibrate the sensors in TunerStudio. After doing this, the readings seemed to be pretty accurate, but I will switch to an open element Air Temp Sensor when I finish up the Turbo install. Plan on getting it running N/A first then add the turbo and tune that.

The last of the To-Do list is wiring in my Flex Fuel Sensor, A few pressure sensors (Oil, Fuel), and the Boost Control solenoid. Those are all things I can do while I work on getting the motor dialed in.

Figured I send an update so you didn't think I had a narcoleptic baby, even tho it feels like it sometimes.

-J

[stum]

Unfortunately none of your your pictures cam up.

There are a number of different options when it comes to the triggers.
Yes you can use the duel wheel. 12 + 1
You can use 24-1 cam speed by removing one of the 24 off the NE wheel
You can use 12-1 crank by removing 2 off the NE wheel.

I have tryed all 3. the Duel wheel decoder has had some work since I last used it.

When it comes to offset. easiest option i have found is set the flood clear to 80% TPS (about) and Timing to Fixed 10 deg. Get someone to floor the throttle (basically turning off the injectors) and crank it. Use your timing light to set the timing to 10 deg. adjust your offset plus or minus till it lines up. Easy as.

Temp sensor, I think there is a drop down option of toyota. is what i use. works fine.

I think the 3vz-fe injectors are 220-240cc. and it will start on the base tune. And get a wide band O2

Boost control is on the list, I have mounted my solenoid valve. And yet to buy a flex fuel.

regards

[JOhMyGOD]

Crap, I will try and fix those photos...

I have a WB02, just waiting on a connector to come in so I can wires up and LS4.9 sensor I have, those are supposed to be better than the older LS4.2's. I have quite a few LS4.9 from when I was chasing down an issue on my BMW 335i and swapped out about 3-4 sensors and it turned out it wasn't the issue. I also have two new LS4.2 sensors from an older project that never came to fruition, so I can reuse those as well, I would just like to use the newer sensors as they are supposed to have a wider range and less issues with free air calibration.

I am going to try dual wheel and see if I can't get it running correctly (I saw you had some issues back in the day), and if not, I will just go with a #-1 on the NE wheel just in-case any 6cyl sequential/COP updates come out.

From what I read, the 3vz has 240cc injectors, but who knows what time has done to them, will prob pull them after I get her running and see about upgrades and getting rid of Air-Assist.

For some reason, the temp values in TS were still giving me odd readings. When I dialed them in, I got more realistic values so I stuck with those, maybe I needed to reset the ecu or something... Not sure, it was late... ha.

I am going to wire up the Flex Fuel sensor and Boost control solenoid today in preparation for spooly things once I get her sorted.

-J

[stum]

You using the two wire temp sensor on the water manifold at the fly wheel end (back). This is the EFI water sensor. Or the one up the front of the engine (pully end) this is for the gauge.

Cheers