Update v3 - 10 Jan 2019 - this was so old it was rubbish, so I totally rewrote it with what I've learnt - new in blue -.
THIS IS A DIY EFI, AND ONE OF THE CHEAPEST, SO DON"T EXPECT THE SERVICE YOU GET WITH A $1000+ EFI
People will try to help if you have a problem, but ultimately you will have to do the reaserch and work everything out.
The people making this happen make nothing doing so, and the help is just volunteers giving their free time.
******************************IT'S UP TO YOU TO GET IT TO WORK******************************
I'm a beginner, and when I started you couldn't understand much here without an electronics background. There was no central comprehensive instructions and bits of information were all over the place, so I read the whole forum and summarised it in this guide so everything relevant was quick to find. Prices are in $AUD unless stated.
A lot of problems have been fixed, instructions, supply, and more people involved and helping.
The Wiki still isn't fully detailed, but now there is enough to get you running. Hookup and actual tuning still needs work.
There are also multiple platforms to ask questions, i.e. Forum, Facebook, Slack, with the forum still being the best.
Supply is better these days with people selling kits around the world on easily accessible selling sites.
COMPULSORY before you do or buy anything - 1 hour here will save you 100's latter-.
Read every word in the Wiki before you begin - questions are still asked that are answered in the Wiki, and that wastes everyone's time -.
Read every word in this first post before you begin.
It took me a week reading the forum front to back to know all this, so trust me this is the quickest way.
You can even buy a MEGA2560 and load the Firmware and play with TunerStudio before you make a decision to buy.
PROCESSOR - $12 - $22
Arduino Mega 2560 R3 16AU - ATmega2560-16AU Board ( Arduino and compatibles )
The Arduino Mega 2560 was chosen because it has 4 hardware timers, uses simple well known Arduino IDE code for common Atmel chips, and is the cheapest - this project is all about cost -. Other Arduino's don't have enough timers or use different chips that have different instructions, so will not work.
There are 2 options for the serial chip on the Mega 2560, the ATmega16U2(small square chip near USB) version that connects to the PC the best, and the CH340(larger rectangular chip near USB) version having communication problems.
Use Bluetooth if you have a CH340, or read here if you want to work around the problem with the chip.
http://kiguino.moos.io/2014/12/31/how-t ... emite.html
The problem with the CH340 is that the Win drivers are flaky, so use the CH340 manufactures driver.
MAINBOARD - $138 - $160, DIY $?
Buying from the official store probably helps the project, but if you are in a country with high postage from Australia there are sellers around the world. Search Ebay, Speeduino Forum, and Facebook.
Speeduino is as hard as you want to make it, i.e. buy it assembled is easy, redesign it, source parts, and build it is hard.
Speeduino Assembled : Official(quality parts) - $160
A bit more expensive, but you will get that back ten-fold in less problems and time being wasted.
Speeduino Kit : Official(quality parts) - $138
Is just as good if you have electronics experience, but mistakes can happen with inexperience. Anytime I see problems with the official kit it's nearly always a mistake by the assembler, i.e. parts in backwards, solder shorts, dry joints, etc.
Speeduino Assembled/Kit : Unofficial sellers
Because Speeduino is open source there are many suppliers all over the world - probably near you -, so you will have to research what you are actually getting, i.e. some use official PCBs and source parts(branded/unbranded), some get PCBs made from the original plans, some totally redesign the unit, etc.
Speeduino Kit : Self Sourced(unknown cheap parts)
There is no reason it shouldn't work, and it's fine if you don't have problems. But if you do have problems, you are never sure if it's the software or hardware. Basically it's quicker to solve problems if the MB's quality is taken out of the equation. There are also other problems, like are cheap parts going to fail long term, do they perform the same, i.e. fake copies, is a homemade PCB going to fail with time. etc. Even the initial price isn't much cheaper, but like all things Ebay you get so many spares that all subsequent units end up being very cheap. My 2 Speeduino's are all Ebay/AliExpress parts, including fake copies, and they do work, but you have been warned.
Because Speeduino is open source you can make the thing just from the plans. You can redesign the PCB, DIY home PCB etch or cheap professional PCB made from the gerbers, source parts, and assemble it, just remember this one is the same as above but with added potential problems. I did mine the DIY home etch/Ebay AliExpress way, and it was hard for someone with no experience.
Mainboard - assembly and config
To assemble the board you need the Wiki picture and the BOM(Bill of Materials) - link at bottom of respective Wiki page -.
Video Guide - Assembly - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IjKlmIi_Dug
Mainboard - hookup and wiring
The output pins haven't been fully defined and there are no actual hook-up instructions or diagrams, so you have to sort that out yourself or ask - pic at bottom of this post is the best so far -.
Mainboard - circuit designs and BOM files
*****https://github.com/noisymime/speeduino/ ... e/hardware
INTERFACE ACCESSORY BOARDS]
Conditions high voltage analogue sine wave to digital 5V square wave.
MAX9926 - dual VR
Official design - tested working fine. $28
DIY Github files - small SMD chip is hard to work with if you DIY.
*****https://github.com/noisymime/speeduino/ ... onditioner
JBperf - too expensive so not used.
LM1815 - single VR
DIY design - I merged the 3 designs and have it working.
If you permanently add this to your MB design you have to isolate the chip, i.e. jumpers or remove chip, if you want to switch back to Hall/Opto or it will ground the signal.
Reference design links.
Optically isolates the high voltage coil signal from the Speeduino if you want to run fuel only off the original ignition.
Official design - uses the other side of the VR board.
DIY design - I accumulated all the other designs and added it to my Speeduino but I haven't tested it yet. Others have their versions working.
Reference design links.
It's not likely you will ever be able to tune your engine without a oxygen sensor, and as a bonus TunerStudio paid version can auto tune the VE fuel table with it to save time. I recommend WB(Wide Band) because using a NB(Narrow Band) is slow and inconclusive. It is possible with a NB, but it won't be super accurate and will take ten times longer.
There are many WB that will connect with Speeduino, but I will only mention the cheapest.
SLC Free (Sigma Lambda Controller Free) $35USD - only uses the newer Bosch LSU4.9 WB sensor. I recommend SLC Free B $45USD with text display.
APSX D1 Digital Wideband WBO Controller Module (Board) $25USD - only uses the Bosch LSU4.2 WB sensor. The LSU 4.2 is slightly less accurate, but overall it's still more than capable if you want to save money.
Bosch WB sensors - LSU 4.9 is always designated 0 258 017 XXX. LSU 4.2 is always designated 0 258 007 XXX. They are not interchangeable.
Bosch WB sensors are known to fail if their heater element it turned on when they have moisture on them, so it's best to run a delay start until the started engine can dry them out. You can use a spare Speeduino control pin or run a delay board. *****https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_fro ... er&_sop=12
Never buy cheap unknown sensors because they are all fake copies - I will be testing a fake copy latter to see if it's good enough -.
IDLE STEPPER MOTOR DRIVER
Arduino DRV8825 Stepper Driver - $2
*****https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... pell_check
Plugs directly into V0.4 boards, but others have no provisions so have to be manually hard wired if they are needed.
Smart coils have them built in, but it looks like you can use any N-channel IGBT - P-channel is not common -.
The pull-up to reset the IGBT is already on the mainboard, so you only have to connect the trigger signal to the GATE, the coil negative to the COLLECTOR, and the ground to the EMITTER. Heat sink is preferable, but make sure you set TunerStudio Spark Settings to Going Low or it could burn out.
ULN2803 AUXILIARY CONTROL
I don't know much about this other than it supplies tach output and control for extra things, so you will have to research it.
*****https://speeduino.com/forum/viewtopic.p ... 588#p16588
RELAY FLYBACK TACH SIGNAL
Some old tachs need a big flyback to run, so this is how.
I think it can do WiFi, but everyone goes for the Bluetooth. You only need the slave HC-06.
Bluetooth HC-06 - $3
*****https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_fro ... 6&_sacat=0
*****http://speeduino.com/wiki/index.php/Com ... g_Firmware
Intermediate Releases - bug patches
As far as I can figure out you download the whole thing with the green button, and pick through it for the updated firmware.
Note : If you are updating the firmware you don't lose your tune, just upload the new speeduino/speeduino.ino to the MEGA2560 and start TunerStudio and point it to the new reference/speeduino.ini.
Video Guide - Pt1 : Getting Started - Firmware - https://youtu.be/h9xW07Zt6hk
Video Guide - Pt2 : Setting up for TunerStudio - https://youtu.be/-MQbsIg5Lg0
TunerStudio MS - $0 free ver - paid ver $70USD(on special $60USD)
Paid version has autotune.
MegaLogViewer MS - $0 free ver - $40USD(special $30USD)+
Free version isn't very useful because it only does 400 records. Not essential, but quite useful.
EmproDatalogViewer - $0
Simple but free and unlimited.
Not essential unless you want to bench test it.
Ardu-Stim - $0(requires an Arduino)
Video Guide - Pt3 : Trigger Simulation - https://youtu.be/tUrq7uhv7Eg
You can rpm trigger a Speeduino with a simple oscillator. Maybe one of these - I can't remember if I tested it -.
*****https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odk ... r&_sacat=0
There are so many designs on the forum I'm only going to link mine because I have it running. I find a built-in oscillator much more convenient so mine has one, along with provision for an Arduino to run Ardu-Stim.
Video Guide - Pt4 : Sensor Simulation - https://youtu.be/4ONM0RlkgJ4
Video Guide - Pt5 : Output Testing - https://youtu.be/fX9HU07Y21I
JimStim - $28USD
I don't know much about it, but it looks like you can DIY it - not tested
I don't know how anyone can be doing tuning without a timing light, so get one or build this cheap DIY LED one.
Not essential, but quite handy.
It's small, portable, and has become essential for me. Buy the original JYE and not a copy, because it helps the designer.
Original JYE Tech DSO138 DIY Digital Oscilloscope Kit SMD Soldered 13803K Version - $21
Original JYE Tech DSO-SHELL DSO150 15001K DIY Digital Oscilloscope Kit - $29
Xprotolab Plain - $20USD
The $20 version uses a PC to display traces, but I don't know much about it. Could be good.
http://www.gabotronics.com/oscilloscope ... -plain.htm
There are plenty oscilloscopes so look around, but this is a cheap one the forum found.
Hantek 6022BE PC-Based USB Digital Storage Oscilloscope 2 Channels 20MHz 48MSa/s - $75
*****https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_fro ... BE&_sop=15
Video Guide - Pt6 : Triggers Explained #1 - https://youtu.be/4SE6KfMJVKg
Video Guide - Pt7 : Triggers(crank) w/ IGN Demonstration #2 - https://youtu.be/k6gEccn17Ro
Video Guide - Pt8 : Triggers(cam) w/IGN Demonstration #3 - https://youtu.be/vYRM0G9Z160
No experts have corrected errors or filled in missing sections, so this is my beginner interpretation of the layout.
This uses the V0.4 as an example and doesn't have the individual wires shown, but at least you can work out what you need and what to research.
right-click save drawing and zoom in with picture viewer -.
VR(Variable reluctance) - Mainly 2 wire.
VR makes it's own voltage so only needs 2 wires.
VR makes voltage in an AC way so the output is a sine wave alternating from positive and negitive
VR makes voltage when a ferrous metal passes it, and can reach 130V.
VR needs a conditioner to change the high voltage sine wave to a 5V square wave.
Hall - Mainly 3 wire.
Hall is usually powered so needs + and - and has an output wire back to the Speeduino.
Hall senses magnetic flux to produce a signal
Hall usually has conditioner built in so it outputs a 5V square wave. 12V square wave ones have to be reduced to 5V.
Optical - Mainly 3 wire.
Optical is usually powered so needs + and - and has an output back wire to the Speeduino.
Optical Mitsubishi units(4G63) have conditioners built in and are usually(?) powered by 12V and output a 5V square wave.
Dumb coils - Mainly 2 wire for singles, but more for packs.
If you see a coil-on-plug(COP) with 2 terminals it's probably dumb and needs an ignitor unit.
Smart coils - Mainly 3 wire for singles, but more for packs.
They are powered so needs + and -, plus have a trigger wire from the Speeduino to tell it when to fire.
I'm not sure every 3 wire COP is smart, so check it before buying.
V3.0 TERMINAL CONNECTIONS
inj1 - Injector channel #1 - Speeduino GNDs injector channel #1 to control it - To negative of injector
inj2 - Injector channel #2 - Speeduino GNDs injector channel #2 to control it - To negative of injector
inj3 - Injector channel #3 - Speeduino GNDs injector channel #3 to control it - To negative of injector
inj4 - Injector channel #4 - Speeduino GNDs injector channel #4 to control it - To negative of injector
12V - 12V power in - Connect to power source that supplies 12V when key is turned to ON or RUN
GND - Ground or negative - Connect to any ground point
Idle - Idle Air Control valve(IAC) - Control of ON/OFF or PWM IAC valves by GND - Connect to negative of IAC
FP - Fuel Pump - Control of fuel pump relay by ground - Connect to negative of fuel pump relay
S2 - Optional control - Control Thermo fan, VVT, Boost, etc - To GND of control relay or directly if under 1 amp
S1 - Optional control - Control Thermo fan, VVT, Boost, etc - To GND of control relay or directly if under 3 amp
ign1 - Ignition channel #1 - Triggers ignitor channel #1 - To signal IN of ignitor or smart coil
ign2 - Ignition channel #2 - Triggers ignitor channel #2 - To signal IN of ignitor or smart coil
ign3 - Ignition channel #3 - Triggers ignitor channel #3 - To signal IN of ignitor or smart coil
ign4 - Ignition channel #4 - Triggers ignitor channel #4 - To signal IN of ignitor or smart coil
IAT - Inlet Air Temp sensor - To IAT sensor
IAT Ret - GND for 2 wire IAT - Not needed if IAT GNDs to car body
CLT - Coolant Temp Sensor - To CLT sensor
CLT Ret - GND for 2 wire CLT - Not needed if CLT GNDs to car body
TPS - Throttle Position Sensor - To signal OUT of TPS
TPS Ret - GND for TPS - Not needed if TPS GNDs to car body
vref - voltage reference - supply power to 5V sensors - To + of TPS, external MAP, etc
O2 - Oxygen sensor - To signal from NB or WB controller
GND - Ground - Ground connection
vref - voltage reference - supply power to 5V sensors - To + of TPS, external MAP, etc
VR1- - To negative side of main VR sensor
RPM1 - To signal of main trigger, ie Opto, Hall, or + side of VR sensor
VR2- - To negative side of secondary VR sensor
RPM2 - To signal of secondary trigger, ie Opto, Hall, or + side of VR sensor