Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
#67786
TLDR: Mazda 3 with Honda V6 J30 and speeduino for ECU in parallel with existing ECU

medium TLDR: I bought this weird Honda car rebadged as Mazda 3, I don't know why Honda just don't put it's name on it, Honda Accord 2 or mini accord, or super civical... whatever.

So I'm planning to swap the the K25... or L5-VE thing for a J30 that I have there doing nothing...

Because I'm not dumb.... I bought the car and then check dimensions of the engines...

So there is a slight chance that everything might work... because you know I'm not dumb... first started disassembling and then and only then did all my homework including checking dimensions of the engines, clearance, etc...

I've disconnected most of the stuff from the engine being the last things I need to disconnect the transmission and the engine mount to get the Mhonzda K25 2.5 L5-VE whatever from the engine bay and put the J30 in all it's unused gloriousness inside the bay to see how much the see-saw needs to "fix"...

I'm planning to put whatever it's designed/created as part of the build in this GitHub repo

https://github.com/alainnothere/Hondzda30

These images I tried to be as much as scale as possible using images from the internet, I did several measurements and they should be somehow, good enough to scale, there is obvious parallax effect on them so not a perfect match like for example in the bolt holes in the engine/transmission and the transmission image was mirrored
Superpositions are centered using the crankshaft output as aligning item.

Honda J30 over transmission, circle is area where axle needs to go, so area that needs to be removed...
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Same but white for the area that needs to be removed
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L5-VE on top of the Honda J30
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L5-VE on top of transmission
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#68017
Ok, here is the first version of the adapter plate that I didn't bought by mistake too thin.... it's because it was perfect to use the dremel, I mean the beautifying wand and adjust the positions of the bolts.

first version of the thing is around 70 bucks... I'll call it pacman or the highway...... no, not convinced... well something more descriptive... domestic honda to almost honda mazda 3 si...
J30ToL5VEAdapterPlate.png
J30ToL5VEAdapterPlate.png (120.59 KiB) Viewed 220 times
And the final version will probably be built using the 12mm material
J30ToL5VEAdapterPlate_TickestMaterial.png
J30ToL5VEAdapterPlate_TickestMaterial.png (117.61 KiB) Viewed 220 times
J30 with adapter
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Hondazda 3 whatever L5VE with adapter
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Hondazda 3 whatever Transmission with adapter
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#68359
I've been doing some work on the engine and this is the current state.
Both transmission and engine mated perfectly, absolutely no change was required... not a single one... the two pounds of aluminum dust just accumulates there for some reason... some neighbor probably is sawing apart a whole engine with a saw and dremel... savages.

But on our side everything is perfect.

Image

Even the hole on that angular piece holding the starter... it's there for cooling purposes...
And talking about the starter, because the Mazda engine has the starter on the engine side and well the J30 doesn't have that space.... well I had to put this starter that comes from this european only renault "Acura RDX"... those Europeans... fit was perfect.... no dremel or saw involved...

Look people will say, hey there is 40% less aluminum on that starter than before... I differ... I'm just adding lightness... in a perfectly controlled way... no crazy saw saw...

Starter turned the engine happily and then return to it's "no my business" position after you move the engine by hand....

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the next step will be to add the adapter to support the AC from the 3, add this really funny air horn, I heard this air horn makes engines louder... this is some weird and exotic horn built by this Russian company call vw... whatever... global logistics I guess...

it's so frisking loud that needs to be cooled by water and oil....

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And last but not least.... the frisking passenger side axle needs 2 cms of space that the engine prefers to keep to itself... I'll take the fastest route in this case... will cut it and then add a couple of zip ties to transfer power.... As soon as I get a new pair of scissors... what's that thing made of? steel?

if the zip ties are not enough will try with zip ties and rubber bands... might be overkill but...
and in case that's not even enough well... maybe it needs something less rigid and a little bit of flexibility can be good, in that case I'll go with https://www.amazon.com/DRIVESHAFT-TUBE- ... C94&sr=1-7

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will probably need to buy 4 so I can take the side where it joins the other shaft a couple of cms away from the engine.
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