[MikkoR]

I just got the main board, Mega and the dual VR conditioner. Latest firmware is loaded.

The engine has now 60-2 trigger wheel and VR sensor with BMW sensor bracket. Delphi potentiometer style TPS is attached to the throttle body with an DIY adapter. I have also purchased a Bosch IAT sensor and a "Bosch blue" CLT sensor. I also have 14point7 wideband lambda with controller. So far only the wasted spark coils are missing, all other harware is available, more or less. This will be a naturally aspirated engine with no specialities, only additional fan control for A/C needs will be needed.

Just not to do anything stupid that may destroy the board, I have some questions (and will have in the future) to start with. These may be trivial, but I want to be sure to connect everything right. I had a MegaSquirt project ten years ago, very few memories from that available any more...

Let's start with the VR conditioner. Which is the correct installing orientation? The VR board has labels "Top" & "Bottom", if placed like in the picture, the connectors does not match the labeling on the main board. Or should they match at all?

After installing it correctly, how to connect the three wires from the VR sensor? The VR board has labels 5V, GND and Out1/2. Should I use the input on the main board connector? This is the most confusing part so far.

Also in the input connector there is a pin for 5V. Do I need to supply the board also with 5V? Or is that 5V output?

[LPG2CV]

Hi

It's saying to align the notch

5v is output

connect the crank VR sensor to the main plugs on the side of the main board

3 wires on a crank sensor suggests it either Hall Effect, and not VR, or one of the wires is a shield. This would normally be connected to a ground pin on the main board connector. Jumpers need to be set on the board as well to indicate HE, or VR.

[MikkoR]

It's saying to align the notch

Yes But, which side up?

5v is output

connect the crank VR sensor to the main plugs on the side of the main board

3 wires on a crank sensor suggests it either Hall Effect, and not VR, or one of the wires is a shield. This would normally be connected to a ground pin on the main board connector. Jumpers need to be set on the board as well to indicate HE, or VR.

It's meant to be on BMW M20, so it is a VR with shield.

Connect JP2 jumper as TSC? I don't see any other jumpers regarding this.

[PSIG]

But, which side up?

Take a breath. TOP means that side to the TOP, yes? It could also say THIS SIDE UP, meaning the same thing, but there isn't enough room to say that. There are multiple helpful indicators.

Speeduino_sig_cond.jpg (167.33 KiB) Viewed 10602 times

It's meant to be on BMW M20, so it is a VR with shield.

Connect JP2 jumper as TSC? I don't see any other jumpers regarding this.

If using a conditioner module, always set jumpers to route through it. Follow the jumper settings here, as they are the same as v0.4. I suggest placing both jumpers on for both signals, even if one is Hall or not used, so the module output and incoming direct or false signals do not fight each other.

[MikkoR]

Ok, I see Makes sense.

I misunderstood the notch to mean the small white "notch" at the end of the chip.
After reading the jumper setting guide, I ended up to this setup.



Next is the sensor itself. It has no pin indicators, but according to the BMW wiring diagram the pins should be like this. Pin 3 is the shield. But the diagram does not tell which one of the pins 1 & 2 is positive or negative. I'll propably keep the plug so I cannot see the wire colors, which might help. If I've understood right, the waveform will be just opposite if polarity is reversed, which is not a matter of life or death. But for clarity, I'd like to connect it correctly.

[LPG2CV]

As long as you have shield correct, the other two will run the engine. The correct way will help it run better. Timing can drift if incorrect.

If you have a licensed TS, then you can see the trigger pattern. I'm sure @psig can advise on the correct shape of the pattern, but it's been posted so many times, that research here may help.

[PSIG]

It's easy to test the VR sensor and wire it up correctly first. The two sensor pins with continuity are the sensor windings, and typically show a resistance of 500-1500 ohms. Now we set the meter to DC Volts to test the sensor for voltage output:

… To verify the correct sensor polarity, attach a voltmeter to the sensor pins or wires, stick a ferrous object to the sensor face (a bolt, tool, steel feeler gauge, etc.), and while watching the meter, snatch the object away from the sensor quickly. You should see a negative (-) voltage pulse on your meter. Ignore the voltage, only note the polarity. If you see a positive pulse, swap your meter connections and try again. When you see the negative pulse, the sensor wire connected to your RED meter lead is the positive (+) sensor connection, and the wire connected to your BLACK meter lead is of course the negative (-) sensor connection.

When wired with proper polarity; the sensor creates a positive pulse when a ferrous object (tooth) approaches, and a negative pulse when it departs.The sharper negative pulse is more consistent for the processor to read accurately, and proper polarity is required to read missing-tooth wheels. As it can be difficult to attach or sweep an object towards it (especially when mounted), the negative pulse when you remove the object is typically easier for testing polarity.

[MikkoR]

I'm pretty sure that now I have determined the VR sensor pinout

I did some standalone testing on my desk and got IAT, CLT and TPS calibrated, more or less accurately. The temp values were ok as well as TPS. There are little chances that this project will succeed, some day

Any good choices for wasted spark coil(s)? It/they is/are still missing.

[runesm]

I'm pretty sure that now I have determined the VR sensor pinout

I did some standalone testing on my desk and got IAT, CLT and TPS calibrated, more or less accurately. The temp values were ok as well as TPS. There are little chances that this project will succeed, some day

Any good choices for wasted spark coil(s)? It/they is/are still missing.

Any operating on a 5v trigger signal really. VR6 coils, but they are sometimes weirdly expensive. Golf mk3/mk4 wasted spark coils, but just two of them. That way you have a spare coil-set where you can just move a pin and 2 plug wires, if anything happens on the road. Those are cheap as chips

[PSIG]

Individual coils can also be wired in pairs as wasted-spark, so the choices are endless. Here's an example of 6 passive (dumb) coils run on 3 channels as waste-spark we did years ago:

6-CYL_WASTE_SPARK_2_MODULES.png (165.86 KiB) Viewed 10310 times