Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
#61088
Rednaxs60 wrote: Sun Feb 05, 2023 2:39 am Went back out and removed the plugs. New never used. Came out a bit sooty. Needs less fuel or more air. Thinking the fuel is the best place to start.

Checked the engine constraints settings. Their RF is at 7.0 for 7.0 ms with the injector staging at alternating. Change this setting to simultaneous and the time goes to 3.5 ms. May try this setting tomorrow.
When you get it operating as it should, then see if it is too rich. If so, then tune it. Change fuel — not how fuel is calculated. You have a data point. Work with that and improve it. Else a change in how it operates means starting over with what it does under that new setting. There is no indication anything is "wrong" with alternating, except that it is rich in WUE. Correct the rich. However, that requires a good warm tune that WUE adds-to. Put your socks on before your shoes. Trigger first, warm tuning next.

Irrelevant until triggering is solved: Tuning is diagnostic, comparing one response to other responses, and you have nothing to compare against, yet. Use what you have and move forward. Also, 3.5ms is a very low number, and may have control issues at low loads. You have already been here, remember? You are opting to move from a fuel quantity situation to a control situation. This is not advisable. Until you have enough data to support a mode change for specific reasons, don't change anything except adjustments to the settings you have. Making random changes without cause is called "shooting in the dark", while ignoring what is obviously wrong - it's too rich. But, let's wait and see what it does when it's triggering correctly.
Rednaxs60 wrote: Sun Feb 05, 2023 2:39 amRunning dwell time changed from 3.5 to 3.0.
One change at-a-time. You have a known condition. Rich. Tune only that, as there is no clear data indication for changing anything else, yet, such as dwell. This advice will apply once it is running correctly on a good trigger. Find your socks.
Rednaxs60 wrote: Sun Feb 05, 2023 2:39 amEngine operated with WUE until engine at operating temp. Necessary or not at this stage?
Assuming your trigger signal issue is solved, absolutely warm it up. All adjustments such as WUE are based on the warm tune. It has to be warm to tune it properly, so yes, warm it up. Again this assumes everything is correct and ready, such as triggering, so that tuning is on a solid foundation. Are your socks on yet?
#61091
@psig - thanks for the comments. Will go back to the settings I had for yesterday's engine trial. A different perspective is sometimes needed to get back on track for the way forward. Thanks to everyone who has commented on my project so far.

The engine was at operating temp for at least 75% of the time. The cam sensor wheel change was beneficial in that I was able to idle down to around 1120 RPM, but had to increase idle every now and then to keep the engine going - progress.

Going to cut the OEM wiring harness outer sheath open and determine how Honda has connected the wires, and what may be routed near the cam sensor wires - more than 25 wires tightly bound together. Need to find the reason for the sync loss issue. Will connect new wires for the cam sensor, external of the wiring harness, for today's trial. Sync loss cannot be because of the new cam sensor wheel, it's PVC, only metal is the tooth. The cam sensor coil should not be an issue, never know.

I noticed on the VE and spark tables that the fuel and electrical load is in the 70ish percent range.

Still seeing two timing marks when I use the timing light - very weird, and 180 degrees apart. Will take a picture today and post.

Looking forward to starting the engine today. Hopefully it will fire up and more progress can be made.
#61092
With the new base tune, turn O2 to no correction.
Did you calibrate all sensors again when you used the new Mega? The calibrations are not stored as part of the tune.

Edit

In line with that @psig is saying. Stop doing random changes :)

You have 2 priorities.
1st Solve the sync loss, as you don't know how it is affecting your fueling.
2nd Fix the O2 sensor reading, as you cannot tune without it.
#61093
Did another trial this afternoon. Wired the cam sensor external of the wiring harness, cleaned up the signal considerably. Watched it while engine was operating.

Noticed that the fuel pump cycles properly when key turned to the ON position.

Engine started not too bad - almost seemed normal. There is air in the fuel rails because it bleeds down - been searching for the reason for a while, and until the is out air got out of the system, engine struggles a bit. The start was good from the perspective that there was no backfiring or "timing lock". Timing seems to be where it should be.

Still have sync losses. I am going to look at the crank sensor and injector wiring next. Wire these external of the wiring harness. Crank sensor has a good signal, but can be picking up noise that does not impact on the signal being shown in the composite logger. Spark igniters will not be so easy. Process of elimination.

Took the spare wiring harness sheath off this morning. Wires are tightly wrapped, grounds are wrapped around wires, have multiple wires joined together. Will try a new ground wire to the ECU from the accessory fuse box. The accessory fuse box is connected at the battery, not through the frame, to the engine, to the battery. Can you say new wiring harness to suit?

Today's tune:
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Data Logs:
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#61106
Spent the afternoon connecting temp wiring for crank sensor, power and ground to ECU from accessory fuse box. Verified O2 sensor wiring. Sent email to 14point7 regarding O2 wiring. Waiting for a response.

The wiring info for the O2 sensor:
O2 Wiring .jpg
O2 Wiring .jpg (122.72 KiB) Viewed 783 times
Using Terminal pins 1/2/3/4/6

Pins 1/3 - from accessory fuse box - switched power
Pin 2 - electronics ground from ECU (using ECU sensor ground)
Pin 4 - LSU heater ground from accessory fuse box
Pin 6 - signal (?) to ECU
#61107
Wiring O2 controller.
Heater, 12V and ground need a separated source due to pwm heater control, noisy signal.
Don't connect heater ground with the sensor grounds.
6 needs to be connected to O2 input of Speeduino.
You do need to callibrate O2 sensor in Tuner Studio.
14point7 O2 callibration values should be already in the drop down menu.
#61114
@LAV1000 - thanks for the comment(s). Will look at the wiring today.
LAV1000 wrote: Tue Feb 07, 2023 6:01 am Wiring O2 controller.
Heater, 12V and ground need a separated source due to pwm heater control, noisy signal.Sensor heater power from accessory fuse box - Have used pin 13 as the sensor +5VDC - There is an IDC pin #28 that is a 5VDC connection. Will connect the controller to it for electronics power
Don't connect heater ground with the sensor grounds.Heater ground to accessory fuse box - sensor to ECU sensor ground
6 needs to be connected to O2 input of Speeduino. Done
You do need to callibrate O2 sensor in Tuner Studio.
14point7 O2 callibration values should be already in the drop down menu.Will look at calibration values. When I click on the tab to calibrate AFR Table, I choose 14point7 and write to controller. The custom linear WB box is greyed out. Will query 14point7 if the settings in the TS software are for Spartan 2 and will be the same for Spartan 3 Lite with the LSU ADV sensor
The Spartan 2 controller setting is:
"0[v] @ 0.68 [Lambda] Linear to 5[v] @ 1.36 [Lambda], equivalent to 10-20 [AFR] for gasoline fuel"

Spartan 3 Lite Controller setting is:
"Factory Default is 0[v] @ 0.68 [Lambda] Linear to 5[v] @ 1.36 [Lambda]. Output is a 12 Bit DAC with a 0.1% voltage reference."

Are the preloaded settings in TS for the 14point7 for the Spartan 2? Not much difference between Spartan 2 and Spartan 3 Lite. Should work the same (?).

First time ever having to contend with an O2 sensor. Learning experience.
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