[Chris Wolfson]

Maybe you mixed up metric and imperial values with the fuel settings?

[Billboswaggins]

I changed from sequential to semi/wasted COP and got the car to idle somewhat. For the composite log it seems like the 36-1 wheel will sometimes trigger double and the cam sensor will trigger twice in 360* of crank rotation. This is with a medium trigger filter.

I made my cam sensor by cutting the end off the distributor rotor and gluing in a solid steel rod and filing the sides to a point.
Is there something else I need for it to work properly? The gap between the sensor and rotor can't be more than 2mm.

For the tooth log there is one tall trigger and one about half that, is this correct? Or does that mean the polarity is wrong? I am using the Mini MAX A2 TSC.

During idle the car shakes much more than it did without speeduino,(not really surprised) but smooths out at 1.1-1.2k and 1.6-1.7k rpm. everywhere else it shakes. What mainly causes this shaking? I know I have big injectors(750cc/min) but should it affect it this much?

I uploaded the tune, composite log and trigger log

[neovin]

how are the injectors wired to the ecu? individually? you can run sequential
make sure the correct injector is firing to the correct cylinder, speedy outputs from 1-4 and does not correlate to actual cylinder same with ignition.
Also 74ve in idle tables with 750cc injectors, that is a massive amount of fuel, my 1.8 with 300cc takes 25-30 ve to idle smooth

[LPG2CV]

Tooth logs are of little use at this moment. You need logs of the afr, advance etc. So click on Data Logging - Start Logging.

For the Injector Prime to work, it needs to be set after the end of the Fuel Pump prime. So if FP prime is 3 secs, then Inj prime could be 3.1 secs. The FP prime moves fuel around to purge air and return and warm fuel to the tank as well as getting the fuel pressure up. The Inj prime adds a small amount of fuel to give it an initial shot of fuel. As PSIG suggest, ignition ON, FP prime, Inj prime, Ignition OFF. Repeat. Gives extra shots.

if you put the VE table on screen when you are cranking. Look where the indicator is pointing. That will give you an indication of the current VE that other values are acting upon. Note that, unless you are at altitude, with your foot on the accelerator pedal a little, the indicator should show about 100kpa. If the throttle is closed it will be further down the scale dependant of you engine vacuum. My point being it changes with throttle opening.

When you get it started, your first task is to set the trigger angle correctly with a timing light. After that, data logs are your friend.

[theonewithin]

You should be checking trigger angle before trying to start.

To at least.make sure you are in the ball park of being correct.

[Billboswaggins]

I found my problem, the injector wiring and ignition wiring was wrong, and was running on two cylinders. I didn't think it would be that easy to mess it up but I was wrong. The engine no longer shakes, and starts up almost instantly while running sequential. My crank sensor was also wired backwards.

how are the injectors wired to the ecu? individually? you can run sequential
make sure the correct injector is firing to the correct cylinder, speedy outputs from 1-4 and does not correlate to actual cylinder same with ignition.
Also 74ve in idle tables with 750cc injectors, that is a massive amount of fuel, my 1.8 with 300cc takes 25-30 ve to idle smooth

I was actually having a problem with tuning for idle. If I let the VE box go to say 30-40 the RPM will start to rise. At 30-35 the RPM is at 1500 and adjusting the idle valve duty % won't change it. My AFR at with 74 is at 10, while idling at 850-1000. The stock idle speed is 850, but I don't know if I should try to go lower.

Tooth logs are of little use at this moment. You need logs of the afr, advance etc. So click on Data Logging - Start Logging.

For the Injector Prime to work, it needs to be set after the end of the Fuel Pump prime. So if FP prime is 3 secs, then Inj prime could be 3.1 secs. The FP prime moves fuel around to purge air and return and warm fuel to the tank as well as getting the fuel pressure up. The Inj prime adds a small amount of fuel to give it an initial shot of fuel. As PSIG suggest, ignition ON, FP prime, Inj prime, Ignition OFF. Repeat. Gives extra shots.

if you put the VE table on screen when you are cranking. Look where the indicator is pointing. That will give you an indication of the current VE that other values are acting upon. Note that, unless you are at altitude, with your foot on the accelerator pedal a little, the indicator should show about 100kpa. If the throttle is closed it will be further down the scale dependant of you engine vacuum. My point being it changes with throttle opening.

When you get it started, your first task is to set the trigger angle correctly with a timing light. After that, data logs are your friend.

Yeah I should of taken a log of cranking. At least I rectified a problem with my obsession of trigger logs.
That is a great explanation of the injector prime. I'm not sure if I need it since I got it running, but I'll meddle with it a bit to see if it helps with starting.
I'm not sure what you mean by your second point. kPa at rest is ~100, at idle it's 40-50. Should it be lower or higher?

You should be checking trigger angle before trying to start.

To at least.make sure you are in the ball park of being correct.

Yes I did confirm the crank offset angle, it was 70*.

Does anyone know where I can find some tuning guides for turbocharged cars? I've just been watching youtube videos, particularly HP academy.

Thanks for the replies.

[theonewithin]

You need to fix your idle control...

Idle RPM increasing indicates more efficient engine operation.

So the VE that gives you such a high RPM is likely the right amount of fuel.

You are just going super rich because you haven't got your idle control working.

Fix it.

[PSIG]

+1 to that, and you are tuning for best efficiency. Use indicators of that, such as increasing RPM with more or less fuel, and targeting minimum MAP indication.

I'm not sure what you mean by your second point. kPa at rest is ~100, at idle it's 40-50. Should it be lower or higher?

It should be the lowest MAP you can attain, at your target warm idle RPM.

[neovin]

here this may help you with your understanding

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OKaeM0u ... ionChannel

[neovin]

Quick breakdown

set fixed timing to 10 degrees (confirm this with timing light as has been said) and use the idle screw to close the throttle body till you reach 30kpa reading on your map sensor.

I disable idle control completely, you may have to set the cells to 0 opening dependant on iac type.

Then you will be able to lower ve to reach near stoichiometric.