Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
#55339
PSIG wrote: Mon Feb 14, 2022 11:54 pm In order to determine if issues are on the Mega or on your board; test your Mega as described here: viewtopic.php?f=19&t=4024&p=43637#p43637

The caps are only to reduce signal noise. The circuit should work without them, but with more noise. ;) If in-doubt about the cap condition, remove it and test the board again.
Thank you for the link. Mega tested fine, the problem was at my wiring, the little idc plug was not locked in place and was not contacting the board, easy.
theonewithin wrote: To reuse an existing output for something else, you need to both change the pin the output is using and disable it


So if you want to use VVT output for fuel pump instead, you need to go to VVT output option NS, change the pin from default to fuel pump pin and then disable it.

Then go to fuel pump and change out to VVT pin and it will then work.

Even if something is disabled, the code doesn't allow you to use 2 pins for a single function.
I did it, changed to VVT and now it is grounding. Weird thing is that the boost idc 35 dont work, but have power at Q8 and J5 when boost is assigned to FP. Wont be using it, so its not a problem.
For now the wiring is all ready and is time to do the hoses and throttle linkage. Maybe the first start will happen the next weekend, cross your fingers.
#55754
Great news! Thats the dacia sandero! No it is not. The first start finally happened after a long time preparing everything. Below is a video from the second start, because i was not expecting it to fire that easy. The injector wiring was wrong, so it was shaking like it has parkinson but is already corrected.
https://youtu.be/27q2PxF98Gs
It idles very well without any control for it and i could rev it close to 4k, probably because my only vacuum hose is connected to the fuel pressure regulator and the distributor is doing half the job, not a big deal, solving it with a T by tomorrow.
Now it is time to learn how to do the thing. I will come back with a log probably very soon.
#55798
Not so great news, my coil igniter is toasted. I dont want to try and make it wasted spark while tuning the injection, wich is what i expect to do at some point and because of that i also dont want to pay for more than enough for it to work. That said, can a 3 wire coil like the bosch 0 986 221 000 be fired through speeduino with fixed timing while the distributor does the advance?
#55837
I do not have that coil's spec's here, but if it's a signal-triggered "smart coil", then yes. Can you operate it using fixed timing and distributor advance? Technically, yes. Suggested? No. What issue are you solving with that idea? Perhaps we can offer other solutions.
#55869
Thats because i was using a combination of hall distributor, a knockoff bosch 227 100 142 module and a plastic coil, but this combination dont last long as it is recommended the use of a specific cilyndrical coil (a white elephant, people only heard about, none has ever seen one). So this smart coil (delphi ce10104) is pretty common here and i was unlucky to get a good one, the module was fried, so not keeping the locked advance idea. All of this was to avoid doing the ignition while the injection was not good yet and spending a bit less on it (always a bad idea, ends expensive). Right now i am waiting for the proper coil/hall module to arrive to use in the distributor. I will keep things simple for now and avoid the combination of problems :D .
#56037
After installing the new coil and a new hall sensor, ignition is back to life! Before all the parts arrived, i also installed the idle stepper, with a hose to each header into part of what used to be a air box from a motorcycle. With that fitted, i get a stable 1200 rpm, when the rpm drops i can see the stepper working and moving inside, but cant make the idle go slower. Was trying to play with the home steps but with no sucess. Also, when turning power on it stays on the same position, it should move to a open position, is it right?
IMG_20220316_182233069.jpg
IMG_20220316_182233069.jpg (869.97 KiB) Viewed 3097 times
As you can see here, this is the position it sits all the time. There is still a bit of space between the housing the the rod. How can i test the maximum travel of the stepper?
#56508
After a lot of tests, i may have solved my reboot problem, turns out IDC ground 12 decided to die, and it was feeding directly my IAT sensor. The problem was solved feeding it with another ground and hooking the proto area grounds to the battery. Im sure i dont lack grounding anymore. Now i have to solve the synch loss problem.
PSIG wrote: Sat Apr 09, 2022 9:06 pm Cool. 8-) When you get to creating your ignition timing table, you can use your published timing data to create your Spark Table. I did an outline of a way to do that here: viewtopic.php?p=26832#p26832 That will set your OEM baseline and you can begin making it better from there, lots better, as we can do things with timing that distributors could only dream-of. Have fun!
After some research on the OEM advance, this table was born. Any opinions on it?
tabela.png
tabela.png (40.1 KiB) Viewed 2860 times
I didnt test this table too much yet, but playing with the fixed timing in TS and centrifugal adv bring me to a interesting question. With 14º i have very, very bad synch loss while 16º its not that bad, what can cause this? Im curious as to why this can happen. Maybe differences in the gap between cap and rotor can cause interference? interesting. log below.

And for the last of today. (Dont mind the air filter)
IMG_20220415_130928178_HDR.jpg
IMG_20220415_130928178_HDR.jpg (222.56 KiB) Viewed 2860 times
It measures 55 cm from the tip to the pipe joint and the other side is exactly the same. I dont know what exactly is inside this muffler, so i dont know if it is possible to fit the sensor in the middle of it. Placing it on the joint sure will make it heat quick :lol: .
Where is a good location to the O2 sensor in this exaust?
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#56513
syncloss:
Don't know how your ignition numbers do add up.
But if you stil use the OEM vacuum unit and distributor you might end up on some misaligment in the distrubitor.
Ignition coil might be fireing when rotor inside distrubitor isn't aligned to its pole.
This might produce arcs inside distributor which causes syncloss.
#56518
roger.rrgt wrote: Fri Apr 15, 2022 4:24 pmAfter some research on the OEM advance, this table was born. Any opinions on it?
tabela.png
Looks fine for a place to begin tuning. Keep in-mind, the table represents the original timing to handle the original tuning, based on goals the OEM had. Fueling, emissions, response, power, economy, stability, etc, for their purposes. Your goals and purposes are likely rather different. Expect the table to look very different when you are done with it. 8-)
roger.rrgt wrote: Fri Apr 15, 2022 4:24 pmI didnt test this table too much yet, but playing with the fixed timing in TS and centrifugal adv bring me to a interesting question. With 14º i have very, very bad synch loss while 16º its not that bad, what can cause this? Im curious as to why this can happen. Maybe differences in the gap between cap and rotor can cause interference?
Rotor-cap alignment (called "rotor phasing") could be one issue here, but is unlikely if you are using mechancial advance. This is because the mechanical system works to maintain rotor alignment. External timing control does not, and why rotor phasing is so important. Unless you have some unusual configuration setup with your distributor, I would be looking for other causes to your sync-loss, which can simply be Speeduino thinking your rpm/s is changing faster than it is (trick of the centrifugal advance input against crank angle timing calculations).

That said, it is very quick to check mechanical advance rotor phasing by setting the crank to your base timing for #1 cylinder firing stroke, and pulling the cap to check where the rotor is pointing, which should be very close to the correct cap terminal. Check of rotor phasing when used with external timing control takes a small bit of figuring, as found in this post, and setting the crank to a different angle for checking. You are dealing with two different systems here, so don't confuse them and their different concepts.
roger.rrgt wrote: Fri Apr 15, 2022 4:24 pm… Placing it on the joint sure will make it heat quick :lol: .
Where is a good location to the O2 sensor in this exaust?
Bosch says as close to the head as you like, that does not overheat the sensor hex temperature. Most convenient with least impact to flow looks like your merge position. Note in your tuning that you must avoid taking Lambda/AFR readings literally, with the short exhaust that may allow reversion and skewed readings. Readings are still relative, though possibly (probably) not accurate. Tune for efficiency and performance using readings only as a relative reference. ;)
#56532
I changed the distributor to a locked one, with a resistive rotor and a small contact to the cap. The unlocked one had a non resistive rotor and a very wide tip, double the width of the resistive part. The change to the old bosch part improved a lot the synch loss, so maybe the alignment was not too far from correct.
One thing i can say for sure is that complete electronic control over ignition makes a huge diference, more than injection, response time to acceleration is not sluggish anymore. The correct way to speedy the things is to do ignition first :D .
I still have some synch loss here and there, but it is possible to drive. Could using aluminum tape as shield be of some help? Fight the interference is next on the list.
Also soldered a 1nF cap at C25, didnt see any change with it and will provide something bigger.
PSIG wrote:Bosch says as close to the head as you like, that does not overheat the sensor hex temperature. Most convenient with least impact to flow looks like your merge position. Note in your tuning that you must avoid taking Lambda/AFR readings literally, with the short exhaust that may allow reversion and skewed readings. Readings are still relative, though possibly (probably) not accurate. Tune for efficiency and performance using readings only as a relative reference. ;)
Some sources say the sensor need to be at least 100cm before the end and some 50cm after the header and i have none :roll: . The sensor is a NB, so no precise readings to begin with, but still better than nothing.
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