Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
By raven361
#50930
Howdy All! This is my first post so be gentle. First, I want to say that this is one of the coolest projects that I have seen for gear heads. I have been looking around for something like this for a long while.

That said, here is a run down of my project: I have a 1986 FJ60 with a Chevy 350 TBI. It has the stock computer but has a non-stock 350 (which I found out about about a year ago and have tried everything in the book to get it to run right). This crate engine is the GM 350 HO that has a 0.435" intake/ 0.460" exhaust cam that is at 212º/222º duration respectively. This does not make the stock programming happy as the vacuum is a little lower than what it is looking for (thus I have an engine that has no power and runs rich/lean depending on how it is feeling that day). Enter the Speeduino - something that I can tune with a laptop!!! (thank you for developing this)

Now for some questions:
The hall sensor that you have referenced a few times that is from diyautotune, is it required to go through the vr conditioner?

Does anyone have a picture of what their v0.4.3 board looks like on how they wired the pull up resistor?

Does anyone have a picture of how they wired up the tach off of the proto area on the v0.4.3 board?

I have read through a lot of the posts in the forum as well as the beginners guide (very handy), the wiki, and the manual - that said, pictures are worth a thousand words.

Cheers,
Nate
By theonewithin
#50940
There is a video on YouTube with build tips for the 0.4 boards.

When our say "pull up wired" do you mean the jumpers???

That's all detailed in the wiki.

No idea what you mean by a specific sensor referenced at DIY??? Ask them for details on it would be best.

Same as in regards to VR conditioner. If it's a 5v output hall then it's not needed. Anything else and you can choose to use the conditioner or a basic blocking diode circuit instead.

Tacho stuff in proto area. Buy a 0.4.4 board. It has everything already there. No need to add anything to proto area for tacho. You don't even need to for the 0.4.3 boards. Just use a spare output like boost instead for tacho.
By raven361
#50950
Thank you for the response (and I was hoping that you would as I've seen a ton of your responses and seem like a wealth of knowledge).

As for the DIY sensor, it was referenced by eve_lucian back in 2017 post #20979 (guess when I said "you guys" really just meant that it was said somewhere on the board). Anyhow, like you said I will have to ask them about the 1k pull up resistor that is needed. However, you did answer the one lingering question about whether or not a VR conditioner is needed and the answer is no (even though it literally came in the mail yesterday... better safe than sorry).

As for the v0.4.3 vs. the v0.4.4b, already have the v0.4.3 board assembled. The info on the wiki is helpful for sure, but like I said, a picture is worth a thousand words, and for me personally, seeing what it looks like on a physical board is more meaningful than a diagram or schematic.


Cheers,
Nate
User avatar
By PSIG
#50955
raven361 wrote: Wed Jun 09, 2021 12:23 pm… Anyhow, like you said I will have to ask them about the 1k pull up resistor that is needed.
I can see you're excited. :lol: That's cool, but as was mentioned, all the basic info is available — you just have to sort-through to find it for the specific hardware you have or want to use.

This is actually the most difficult part of a project such as Speeduino, as it can be configured to control literally thousands of hardware combinations, and you must find the info specific to yours (and how to use it). In this case, you can refer to the ZF (Cherry) data sheets for sensor info, and then to the V0.4 page of the wiki to the Jumper Config section for how to use the pullup jumpers.
raven361 wrote: Wed Jun 09, 2021 12:23 pmAs for the v0.4.3 vs. the v0.4.4b, already have the v0.4.3 board assembled. The info on the wiki is helpful for sure, but like I said, a picture is worth a thousand words, and for me personally, seeing what it looks like on a physical board is more meaningful than a diagram or schematic.
You have that — your board. Look for J4 in the corner. That controls your crank sensor pullup resistor that's right next to it. ;) Read about using it in the Wiki's V0.4 page.

You can get this if you relax and use the info only for your hardware. Trying to understand all the options is not beneficial at this point in your progress. Some patient searching will find you lots of info on throttle body injection, and specifically your type of GM/Chevy TBI. Get comfortable with something to drink or snack, and click the Search bar at the top of each forum or Wiki page. Welcome to Speeduino!
By raven361
#50958
Thank you! Was also hopping that you would chime in too!

That schematic helps a ton (I know what I said about pictures but I'm easy)! I'll have to look at the board - but from what I am reading into what you are saying is that there is a pull up there already for the sensor - which would be dope. I will consider that a checked off question (and just to clear the air, I'm very relaxed, maybe a little too excited to get this thing running however :D).

Next item is power, is the 12V from the battery as simple as hooking up key on power to the unit (with power while cranking too of course)? Trying to spreadsheet the hell out of this and trying to figure out how many of my current 12V source wires I can eliminate.

Cheers,
Nate
User avatar
By PSIG
#50966
You have a lot more to consider than that, assuming changes to powering injectors, coils and other stuff. Re-purpose the circuits you have of suitable wire gauge, with suitable fuses/breakers. If the age of your vehicle means you don't have a Main relay to source from, then create your own mini-harness with relays and fuse panel, for whatever new stuff you're powering.

This is a random example of an old MPFI project I did, where the new aux fuse panel and relays were attached directly to the ECM case, for a single-package solution. Modify circuits and fuses to suit your stuff, e.g., with only two injector channels with one injector each, you'd use a 3 or 5 amp fuse for both of those:

Cougar Fused Power Wiring.png
Cougar Fused Power Wiring.png (29.52 KiB) Viewed 4600 times

Likewise, plan your engine wiring to suit. You would also have two channels, but only one injector each, and perhaps different ignition coil setup, etc:

Cougar ECM & Engine-Partial.png
Cougar ECM & Engine-Partial.png (53.63 KiB) Viewed 4600 times
By raven361
#50967
This is pretty boss! Thank you! I'll be digging into the wire harness here in the next few days with a few beers (it's handy to be a brewer...)

I have a spare relay box with 6 slots that will hopefully do the trick for all of the extra stuff I will be throwing at the engine :D .

Cheers,
Nate
By raven361
#51114
Howdy all,

Quick question, when the engine is running, does the Speeduino ground the injectors? And is this why low Z injectors need a resistor? Asking for a friend...

Cheers,
Nate
User avatar
By PSIG
#51117
Yes, Speeduino (and the vast majority of ECMs) ground the injectors to operate them.

No, Speeduino does not have injector current limiting (usually PWM) for low-Z injectors, and passes full power through the connected injectors for the entire pulse width. The resistors are needed to hold current to a level that will operate the injectors properly, while preventing overheat of the injectors, ECM board traces or components.
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