Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
#47793
Well, going back to 202008 does bring someting, but not the permanent solution. The system now freezes less often. It does mean to me it has to do with the firmware, not my tune or set-up in the car. It is also supported by an answer I received a little while ago in another topic, although I didn't quite understand it back then:
pazi88 wrote: Wed Dec 30, 2020 6:49 pm ... There is bug in current FW where cam angle can overflow and what you see in TS isn't necessarily the real cam angle.
So, time to test more. I had very little if any differences on the pulls in the picture I posted (I'll add the RPM range next time I post such a pic). And my tune was very conservative, to say the least. The ignition angle especialy, with a VE to match. But in the meantime I gathered more tunes from other people with the same engine, and some show a lot more advance then mine. Others are more like mine, which pretty much means they stuck to the base spark tune and only tuned VE to match. But this engine clearly likes a lot of advance to make power. So, using Excel, I made a mix of various spark tables. Using my own tune around idle and cruise as that is where I tuned a bit myself, and copying more agressive values in the power sections. I did a similar Excel exercise on the VE table, but I multiplied the changed sections by 1.05 to make sure it was a little on the rich side. Last but not least, I did the same thing on the VVT table. My table ony went up to 20 degrees, but I found tables used successfully up to 36 degrees. So I made a smooth mix going up to 30. Yesterday I did a 30 minute drive (after warmup) and made a log, and I used MegalowViewer HD to come up with a better VE table. As expected the parts I copied from my previous tunes needed no adjustment, in the powersections it did find some improvements both enriching and leaning here and there. But only minor changes. So, we're certainly in the ballpark and my but-dyno says I have more power. I hope to get in another log-drive today with more variation; highway, country roads, in town, and some power pulls in differenc gears. That should provide MLV HD with more info to further smooth things out.

In the meantime I asked on Fakebook if I should set my 'squirts per engine cycle' (in the engine constants settings menu) to 1, as I run fully sequential. I can tell you from experience, now, you certainly shouldn't it doubles your 'required fuel' which means you should half your VE table, and that does not make sense. I got some people helping out with the theory behind squirts per cycle, but the final answer came in the form of a quote from the manual, a section I had not committed to memory as I started of not using sequential:
UserManual wrote:Squirts per Engine Cycle: How many squirts will be performed over the duration of the engine
cycle (Eg 720 degrees for a 4 stroke). most engines will not require values greater than
4. For sequential installations, this should be set to 2 with the injector staging set to ‘Alternating’(
Internally Speeduino will adjust the squirts to 1)
So those settings were returned to what they were, I acidentally had them correct before I started messing with them. OK, learned something again.

Next on my list of chores for the car is a new alloy radiator, which will be placed upright and lowered to allow the future intercooling piping to go over the top of it, new more sturdy engine mounts and I need to do the dreaded valve stem seals replacement. All will not impact the Speeduino, although even before the intercooler is mounted, changing the rad position will allow for a cold air intake. I now often have temps of over 40 degrees C intake air, when standing in trafic, as there is no airflow. This I will address soon, when the rad is placed. It will take out the variable of intake temp a bit, as it will be closer to ambient then, so more constant.

On the Speeduino side I am still messing with closed loop idle, I have settings that sometimes work well, but other times spiral out of control. I understand the theory on PID tuning a bit, now, but in practice I have no feeling for it, that's for sure.

Hugo
#47933
Yesterday was a very good day. Except for the closed loop still not working right on the IAC, I managed to get a very stable idle now. And because my car needs to go through MOT soon, I thought I'd have the exhaust gasses checked before the real MOT date. Here it is:
Image

I am really happy. The CO needs to be below 0,5%, so 0,11 is very good, and Lambda needs to be between 0,9 and 1,1, so that's good, too.

I will return to finetuning closed loop idle, soon, but I was so happy yesterday I decided to order the turbo manifold. As a treat for me. One step closer to the target...

Hugo
#47949
Excellent! I have found that closed-loop idle is more stable with less emissions variation. If your testing station either grabs numbers randomly, or reports highest value collected for each parameter (grabbing the worst values as closed-loop idle varies :x), you may have to tune for open-loop stability just for testing purposes. Save the special de-tuned file for next time. I tend to find a bit rich and retarded from optimum is typically necessary to hit the best relative numbers in a balanced emissions test tune, for the numbers and test methods they require around here. As I'm sure you've found, when one goes down, the others tend to jump up disproportionately. :roll:
#49518
Small update:

Big things have been done to the car now, but mostly mechanical. I have a new special radiator, which allows me to route the intercooler piping over the top of the radiator. I fixed the pwered aerial on the car and fitted a single din semi-period stereo. Taking out the two-din original radio means I now have space in the tomb-stone for some extra gauges. I bought some period-look gauges, AFR and boost, which will be fitted soon in a single din 3D printed mounting plate. But all this has nothing to do with the Speeduino...

I've been working on the tune on and off, and I have driven the car a lot. It runs well, and I seem to have fixed the bad starting habits by adding fuel during cranking. The settings were just too low, there, it obviously needs some juice to get going. I think I have the VVT working well as the performance is there and constant, despite the displayed values in TS still freezing from time to time. The closed loop idle is driveable but not perfect yet, for the MOT I set it back to open loop for a stable measurement.

Next on the list are closed loop AFR, I have started on that but I cannot find the correction values in MegaLogViewer. If someone can point them out, I would appreciate it. Or should I add them to the log, first, in TunerStudio? If so, how?

Last but not least on the current short-list is to set safeties. Not allow for over-reving, over-boost, etc. The change to turbo is getting closer, I want to understand the safety settings and fine tune them before the turbo is on. Just in case.

Cheers,

Hugo
#50778
Hi just reading through your thread.
Cannot access any logs or tune files as I was interested to have a look through.

In regards to your lean spike on AE and having to substantially increase added values, I switch my map sampling to instantaneous as I was seeing a delay, and the change was night and day better.
This 90% removed the spike and inconsistencies I was seeing, and gave me logs to what I was expecting, please give it a try and let us know.

Also there is a lot you can do to give a really strong and quick reacting idle using spark table and VE table to catch rpm drops several factors quicker than can be achieved with a mechanical valve, on my 94 1.8 I left it turned off most of the year as the tone irritated me.

My current ecu build is for a 2003 vvt, testing starts in a couple of days. Working on adding an extra high side driver and ecu control of alternator output with pid, all accessible via tunerstudio.

IF you can set up a new link to logs, tune and current ini I would be very interested to see if i can replicate the vvt freeze bug on the bench with a stim.
#50808
Hi,

thanks for all the input. Here is my current tune:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VWP15S ... sp=sharing
Pretty much everything is working fine, also in closed loop, except for the lean spike.

I have just tonight switched off the closed loop AFR by raising the minimum RPM to 7500 and I switched off Decelleration Fuel Cut Off. This because I fear I fried another WB sensor. Despite the fact that I have the 20 second start-up delay working well. I hate this, as those sensors cost me € 100,- each here in the Netherlands. I heard positive things about the AliExpress sensors, I might go that way until I found the problem.

The irritating hum of the IAC on your new engine is because the IACs on the NB engines run on higher frequencies (400 - 500 Hz) than the ones on the NA engines. If you run the NB valve on the NA frequency, it is indeed very annoying.

Cheers,

Hugo
By neovin
#50812
Without a log i can only point out a couple of things, first of all is injector prime delay is set to 25.5 that will not help with starts, set it to 5 to align with fuel pump prime of 6.

Ah just found the lean spike, ae table. you have it set to pw multiplier which is currently set to 40%, so there you are its multiplying any pedal movement by 40%.
Set it to 100% to disable it then report back, lol.

I'm no expert at this but I have fresh eyes (He says replying to this as pages of code are blurring into one.)

I'll upload my tune so you can see the cells around idle, i have no iac and full load from lights wipers and heaters will not stall the car
#50819
Thanks! I never changed those settings as far as I am aware, as I didn't know what they did. I cannot post a current log, unfortunately, as my third WB sensor just packed up. I will upload the changes today and go for a drive. I also hope this solves it's bad starting habits. I'll report back.

Your input / help is greatly appreciated. I learn every day. I am getting good at tuning for regular driving, but the extras I have no clue about, yet. This really helps.

Cheers,

Hugo
#51083
Hmmmmm, the Speeduino is on the low burner for now. I was just going to clear a little rust from the quarter panel, but that quickly changed into a project...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1QYyKECyq3o&list=PLB-lVrIFE4BeSFhJnnFor112FdaU2z_wa

I burned out the third wideband LSU 4.9 sensor, BTW, despite good positioning (same as on other MX5s which don't spit out sensors), not temperature problems (says the controller) and delayed controller startup. I just bought two cheap Ali sensors, if they fail just as soon as the original Bosch ones I save 70 bucks per sensor...

@neovin; since I don't have a working sensor in the car and the car is now on jack stands in the garage, I have no feedback on the changed settings. If you in the meantime have your tune for the more stable idle, feel free to share.

Cheers,

Hugo
#51157
I'd say now with The findings in hand, lean spikes and at a guess a follow up of rich wet exhaust gases are the cause of sensor failure. Probably not long enough of a temperature increase for the controller to log the fault and a factor in differential heating, all bad in hindsight.

Before you run again, I would check spark plug condition.
Photos and post here if you are not sure what you are looking for, that lean under load could crack the ceramic or vaporise the electrodes. There is a lot of information that you can determine, this was where you determined your fuelling back when.

I'll post back a mod of yours but my vvt ecu is still on the bench, fired up the 94 and still without IAC a few cranks and a blip and it was up and sitting at 850/900
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