Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
By rallikuski
#47393
rallikuski wrote: Tue Dec 29, 2020 11:01 am I think bosch didnt use "so many" different specs for "motorsport" coils. At least connections are identical and that 010 and 002 coils looks same. Only connector seems to be at different location...
I did get answer to my e-mail from finnish store who is selling that 010 coil that coils 010 and 002 are identical, only connector is at different position.

I tuned car little bit, like 10minutes and did get it running ok at idle and it starts now without touching at gas pedal:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EfR_9YS6oY
By rallikuski
#47442
Next stupid question... :mrgreen:

Can i use programmable output like rpm/idle up with automatic trans, like below:

rule number 1 = output pin 22
output polarity = active low
activation delay = 0.0s
2nd condition = disabled
condition 1 = RPM < 660

And then if i put jumper wire between arduino pins 22 and 23 and then turn on idle up and set it like:
idle up pin = 23
polarity = normal
idle up ammount = like 20-30%

If that works like in my mind i save lot of wiring in car...
I have good 880rpm idle, but when i put gear in my tranny it drops to 600rpm.
I want my engine idle be 750-800rpm with gear on too.
So i need about 20-30% idle up.
User avatar
By PSIG
#47455
rallikuski wrote: Tue Jan 05, 2021 8:56 am condition 1 = RPM < 660
...
I have good 880rpm idle, but when i put gear in my tranny it drops to 600rpm.
I want my engine idle be 750-800rpm with gear on too.
So i need about 20-30% idle up.
Agreed - try it. You learn a lot more a lot faster by doing it. Both conditions should be the same rpm target.

A couple thoughts - one is that you want to counter deviations as early as possible. So if your target idle is 800 in both neutral and in-gear, then you would want to catch the deviation just outside of "normal" wavering. Maybe 750 or higher in this case. Waiting until 660 rpm means the drop is already present and well on it's way down. Recovery to 751 will end the correction, and the cycle will repeat from 751 to 750 (or less) and back. A 660 trigger point will have it bouncing at that rpm, not at normal target idle.

Also, you may find that a stronger counter action will produce better stability, as it has to not only stop the rpm drop, but push it back up to target. So, catching it early and with a reasonably close and strong counter force will allow less rpm drop, returning quickly to the target with less oscillation.

Now a (likely) more stable alternative - make your input signal any in-gear position other than P or N (out-of-gear). One way to do this is the neutral safety switch, which is not closed when engaged in any gear. When in any gear, it will then trigger the input to apply the proper amount of correction (your 20-30% air or timing or whatever) to maintain full target rpm, without waiting for an rpm deviation to trigger it. Just giving alternative scheme concepts for your consideration.
By rallikuski
#47471
Vauhtivaunu wrote: Wed Jan 06, 2021 10:56 am Have you tried closed loop idle?
Not yet, it idles very good at open loop just now.


PSIG wrote: Wed Jan 06, 2021 12:21 am Now a (likely) more stable alternative - make your input signal any in-gear position other than P or N (out-of-gear). One way to do this is the neutral safety switch, which is not closed when engaged in any gear.
Yeah that is the right solution for my "problem".

Car has starting "lock-out" via shifter/transmission, but it only connects ignition lock and starter allowing starting signal going thru it to starter at P or N position.

I planned to modify it with relay and little bit of wiring to make it work as grounding for speeduino at P and N and allowing relay be "ON" when starting at P or N.
By rallikuski
#47532
At weekend i did get car out from garage and started tuning.
Car did get 50-60km at trip meter and lot of tuning.

I had little bit problems with usb-cable. Tunerstudio freezes randomly with usb, sometimes when starting engine and sometimes it did run several minutes before freezing.
Then i changed computer and used BT and it worked well, no freezing at tunerstudio at all :)
I didnt even try usb connection with that another computer, but i think my usb cable was just too long and its not protected...

I didnt modify that starter lockout relay thing yet for idle up, but i think i will do it later...
User avatar
By sagiasGEORGIOS
#47939
rallikuski wrote: Mon Jan 11, 2021 9:06 am At weekend i did get car out from garage and started tuning.
Car did get 50-60km at trip meter and lot of tuning.

I had little bit problems with usb-cable. Tunerstudio freezes randomly with usb, sometimes when starting engine and sometimes it did run several minutes before freezing.
Then i changed computer and used BT and it worked well, no freezing at tunerstudio at all :)
I didnt even try usb connection with that another computer, but i think my usb cable was just too long and its not protected...

I didnt modify that starter lockout relay thing yet for idle up, but i think i will do it later...
can u share idle valve settings i have the same valve and i need some start point thanks
By rallikuski
#47963
sagiasGEORGIOS wrote: Sun Jan 31, 2021 4:01 pm can u share idle valve settings i have the same valve and i need some start point thanks
My setup works good with 154hz. I dont use closed loop idle yet and i dont know should i even use it because my car ir running really smooth now in open loop mode.

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