[Janus Cph]

Do you have a multi meter and know how to use it ?

Yeah I have one at my workshop. I will get it sunday, so I can measure the output on the SpeedySim.

[Janus Cph]

Everything seems fine with the tests of my NO2C board. I figured the RPM1 and 2 out with a spare multimeter I had in my "basement".

I connected the IDLE to a LS1 output and got that working in TunerStudio to.

Maybe not a big deal for most of you guys here, but for me it is. Especially when I havent been soldering anything in the past 20-25 years.

https://youtu.be/9Q-VDkh-Qnc

[R42BUG]

Cool!
Thank you.

Did you got the injector adapters from MSS in Germany?
Where did you buy the fuel pump?
There are some for €80 around... but i think they are junk....

What do you plan for a case and plug for the NO2C ?

Very cool project

You can get fuel pump from Mexico with shipping I think is cheaper.
https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.mx/ML ... 145f7235cd

[Janus Cph]

You can get fuel pump from Mexico with shipping I think is cheaper.
https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.mx/ML ... 145f7235cd

There are lots of cool beetle stuff in Mexico.

https://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB ... 26c36e767a

[Janus Cph]

Ok here we go.

My first startup of the engine was this morning.
Confirming that I have absolutely no clue about what I'm doing. My crank trigger setup was 180 degree wrong. But a few cranking sequences with the timing light on, and at a fixed value of 10 degree got that fixed.

After I had primed the fuel system, and put the spark plugs back in, it started pretty much in the first try. I guess I still have some luck left in me.

I tried making some logfiles of the tooth pattern, and I can see I have some work to do. I also have some sync losses when the engine is running. But I think it can be fixed, when I get a clue of what I'm doing.

First tooth log of 12-12-2020
https://youtu.be/cPRwrTq5IKg

First start of the engine 12-12-2020
https://youtu.be/vCVjFkIGFvY

2020-12-12_08.00.49.csv

(22.4 KiB) Downloaded 186 times

CurrentTune.msq

(70.05 KiB) Downloaded 172 times

First start datalog.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sazghtqkmf5vh ... 0.mlg?dl=0

Second start datalog.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9gvq4n0hjqig7 ... 3.mlg?dl=0

[LAV1000]

Nice to see some progress.
Looking at your last video and the tooth logger it seems that the VR senor is wired backwards.
Recognized by the somewhat smaller second pulse behind the longest one, should be one long pulse.

Did look at the data log, by the end it seems to run better.
Did notice a dwell of 2.0 msec, is there a particular reason to keep it this short ?
And noticed that CLT didn't get warmed up.

If you want to start tuning, first get engine up to running temperature and get a nice idle dialed in.
Don't start messing with enrichment settings before you set a good idle.

[Janus Cph]

Nice to see some progress.
Looking at your last video and the tooth logger it seems that the VR senor is wired backwards.
Recognized by the somewhat smaller second pulse behind the longest one, should be one long pulse.

Yes it's pretty nice I didn't have to much hassel starting it up.
The tooth logging was on my to do list for tonight. I needed to figure out what was going on. I was actually not sure what way to wire it up.

So I wired it up like my previous Microsquirt setup, as a starting point, and that seems wrong. But it's a easy fix with the screw terminals on the test setup.

Skærmbillede 2020-12-12 185702.jpg (58.36 KiB) Viewed 4819 times

Did look at the data log, by the end it seems to run better.

I did lean it out a bit and that made it a bit better, and fine adjusted the fuel pressure.

Did notice a dwell of 2.0 msec, is there a particular reason to keep it this short ?

I'm actually not sure. I set it up safe, because I couldn't t find my notes of the settings I used on my Microsquirt setup.

Do you have recommendation for the 106B?

20200312_213319902_iOS.jpg (42.94 KiB) Viewed 4819 times

And noticed that CLT didn't get warmed up.

I actually had the same problem with my last setup, and I have now bought an "original" temp sensor for the original spot in the cylinderhead I need to put in.

20201014_173219997_iOS.jpg (73.53 KiB) Viewed 4819 times

The one I'm using now is really sensitive to changes in airflow around the sensor, and gets heat soaked pretty quick.

If you want to start tuning, first get engine up to running temperature and get a nice idle dialed in.
Don't start messing with enrichment settings before you set a good idle.

Yes I need to get my heat sensor to work correct, and actually measure something useful.
But I'm looking forward to get some time in to it now.

[PSIG]

• connected (+) to VR1+ and (-) to VR1-

Thats to come. I'm doing a test setup on my motorstand to tinker with. The car is not ready to run at the moment.

It's easy to test the VR sensor and wire it up correctly first. A previous post on testing VR sensor polarity:

PSIG wrote:
… To verify the correct sensor polarity, attach a voltmeter to it, stick a ferrous object to the sensor face (a bolt, tool, steel feeler gauge, etc.), and while watching the meter, snatch the object from the sensor quickly. You should see a negative (-) voltage on your meter. If you see a positive pulse, swap your meter connections and try again. When you see the negative pulse, the sensor wire connected to your RED meter lead is the positive (+) sensor connection, and the wire connected to your BLACK meter lead is of course the negative (-) sensor connection.

When wired with proper polarity; the sensor creates a positive pulse when a ferrous object (tooth) approaches, and a negative pulse when it departs. As it can be difficult to attach or sweep an object towards it (especially when mounted), the negative pulse when you remove the object is typically easier for testing.

How do I hook this up to the speedrino v3 ?

Connect your verified VR(+) wire to RPM1 (VR1+ on v4), and the other to an available GND terminal. Some board designs have a dedicated VR(-) terminal for each sensor.

Is there a visual light on board that light to show the sensor is working?

If your VR conditioner module has one (e.g., DSC, MIniMAX-A2, etc), then yes. The stock Speeduino board and module do not have diagnostic LEDs, though the injection and ignition LEDs will light if a simulated RPM is fed to the board, such as Ardu-Stim or other regular pulse.

Can this hook directly to the board or do I need something else?

VR sensors require VR signal conditioner circuits to be added onto the Speeduino board, usually as a plug-in module as linked above. See the Speeduino Wiki Crank sensor section for how they work.

David

[Janus Cph]

• connected (+) to VR1+ and (-) to VR1-

Thats to come. I'm doing a test setup on my motorstand to tinker with. The car is not ready to run at the moment.

It's easy to test the VR sensor and wire it up correctly first. A previous post on testing VR sensor polarity:

PSIG wrote:
… To verify the correct sensor polarity, attach a voltmeter to it, stick a ferrous object to the sensor face (a bolt, tool, steel feeler gauge, etc.), and while watching the meter, snatch the object from the sensor quickly. You should see a negative (-) voltage on your meter. If you see a positive pulse, swap your meter connections and try again. When you see the negative pulse, the sensor wire connected to your RED meter lead is the positive (+) sensor connection, and the wire connected to your BLACK meter lead is of course the negative (-) sensor connection.

When wired with proper polarity; the sensor creates a positive pulse when a ferrous object (tooth) approaches, and a negative pulse when it departs. As it can be difficult to attach or sweep an object towards it (especially when mounted), the negative pulse when you remove the object is typically easier for testing.

How do I hook this up to the speedrino v3 ?

Connect your verified VR(+) wire to RPM1 (VR1+ on v4), and the other to an available GND terminal. Some board designs have a dedicated VR(-) terminal for each sensor.

Is there a visual light on board that light to show the sensor is working?

If your VR conditioner module has one (e.g., DSC, MIniMAX-A2, etc), then yes. The stock Speeduino board and module do not have diagnostic LEDs, though the injection and ignition LEDs will light if a simulated RPM is fed to the board, such as Ardu-Stim or other regular pulse.

Can this hook directly to the board or do I need something else?

VR sensors require VR signal conditioner circuits to be added onto the Speeduino board, usually as a plug-in module as linked above. See the Speeduino Wiki Crank sensor section for how they work.

David

That’s a really great explanation, and something I can understand.

Thank you David.

[LAV1000]

For the ignition coil:
Set dwell to 3.0 msec and check coil heat whit your fingers, warm no problem, auwts, set it back .

One wire temp sensor not ideal, can cause a noise issue due to a shared ground.
The heat soak thing, due to construction of engine and cooling system it is hard to find a solution.
Do you have some values on this sensor ?
What threat size is it ?