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Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
By jp_prat
I am having sync loss every tooth when cranking the motor, but when i rotate trigger wheel on lathe, there is no sync loss at all. I have tried many things. Disconnecting injectors and coils don't change anything. I dont understand what can cause this. I even made this new cover for new hall sensor ,so the sensor is far away from any surfaces other than trigger wheel

I have now nice laser cut trigger wheel that is 12-1.

I can get rpm and spark, and no sync losses, when i set the trigger wheel to be 12-3 on tuner studio, even it is actually 12-1. This seems weird to me. And trigger wheel and sensor on the lathe, it works with no sync losses, set to 12-1 on tuner studio. Like its supposed to. When i move the sensor on the bike, it does not work at all.

Here is picture of the thing on the bike.
IMG_20200828_182817[1].jpg (2.23 MiB) Viewed 4047 times
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By jonbill
so what is different between spinning it on the lathe and spinning it in the engine? electrical noise from starter motor?
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By Eric H
What's the gap between the end of the sensor and the teeth?
Closer is better. Get it as close as you can without contact and you will get a stronger signal.
Don't know if that's the problem, but it can't hurt.
By jp_prat
Thanks for the help. I have no idea what is the difference between lathe and the engine. I have even connected lathe to engine with wire, and it did not change anything. I just came back from garage, I connected speeduino to different battery, nothing else connected to it, and it did still the same thing. Only sync loss on the bike.

I have played with the sensor clearance, it does not affect this problem at all. 0.4mm - 4mm does just the same thing. In lathe it works and on the bike it doesnt :|

But i am wondering how it can get sync and rpm with 12-3 ignition wheel setting on the tuner studio, when i am using 12-1.

I have actually driven the bike at least 4000km with shitty self made 12-3 trigger wheel, and it did work somehow..

But when there was sudden rpm change, like if i were accerelating on 8-10krpm and push clutch in and close throttle and when i would open throttle again, then it started to break up and loose all the power.

This would not go away if i give it more rpm, but only when i let the rpm come down to idle, and idle for a couple of seconds, then it somehow found sync again.. probably.And i could give it throttle and it would work again.

And another problem i had, was that bike was runnig "rough" on high rpm, and it was not strong as it should be. It sounded a bit like one of those vw's vr6 engines :D :?

I tought that this was because my shitty self cutted 12-3 ignition wheel, and thats why i have now this new laser cut trigger wheel, and new cherry hall sensor. But it does not work at all, and i dont know what to do anymore. :(
By LAV1000
First of all there is a big difference between a lathe and an engine.
A lathe runs smoothly and at a constant rpm.
Your engine not so much every compression stroke it slows down and every power stroke it accelerates.
And on top of this it is a motorcycle engine whit low inertia compared to a car engine.

Try it whit the plugs out, so there is no compression effect.

Starter might be going bad an generates a lot of noise.
Battery might be low or bad.

Make a tooth log and a data log to see what happens
By jp_prat
Thats true, yeah, i tried it with spark plugs off, and it got sync! At least that solved what is the difference between lathe and engine testing. Only problem is now that i cant runt the bike without spark plugs xD. Thanks!

I have to look logging later, and isn't tooth log only in paid thing? I am not sure.. I might have some log from earlier this summer, where i had problems with sync loss and losing all power when driving the bike.

The bracket and screws in the back are for the stock sensor, there is small magnet too. I put them there, to see if it affects anything, but it didn't. I take those away.
By LAV1000
I don't know the sensor specs but it could be that tooth are to small (width) and just work on a lathe but not on the engine.
Check google on crank position wheel to get an idea.
5.0 mm tooth height wil do, I would be afraid to rev your wheel to 10k, it might loose a tooth :(

Also sensor needs to be aligned in proper way to the wheel and maybe the sensor itself clockwise to the wheel.
Any change to measure some voltages on sensor output with and without tooth in position?

Don't use old logs on this there just misleading and guide you in the wrong way.

Don't know if tooth log is for the paid version if it is it is well worth it.
You safe yourself a lot of time and it is much easier to share you problems on the forum.
By noisymime
A big +1 for resistor plugs if you're not already running them. How close does your trigger sensor wire run to any of the ignition components?
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