There are what seem to be a million choices of Hall sensors. Unfortunately, many of them are for specific purposes or actions, and we want to profile ferrous wheel teeth as a clean square signal. This means a specific type of Hall sensor*
with a built-in bias (back) magnet, which is the most common type for automotive uses. Again, there are many choices, but a couple examples could be a short threaded-cylinder type (ZF/Cherry GS100710) or a bare sensor element you glue on a spacer block to the inside of the distributor body (ATS617 in the image below). This level of choices can drive you crazy, or give you options that work with your sense of how to get a sensor in there. I have not tested either type on the specific wheel type you have. Good luck!
[Edit for info] *
Typically, automotive crankshaft and cycle (cam) angle Hall sensors may be a type that is: switching, non-latching, unipolar, back-biased, and either open-collector or open-drain. Use care in selecting "smart" sensors, as they may have features for other special purposes, such as reading dual-direction (transmissions or stop-start) or circuitry to purposely ignore damaged or missing
Here I'm holding an Allegro ATS617 engine crankshaft gear tooth sensor ($8-$10), along with some hardware store parts (+$) to make my own "smart" version of the ZF. Mount the sensor in other ways as you see fit:
Here is the ZF GS100701 short sensor ($25 and up online). Drill a hole and thread it, or plain hole at wheel height and use jam nuts to position the depth: