[sawboss]

Hi everyone,

This is the place that was made for me, I am so excited to come across the speeduino community.
Little Background
I am a newbie to the speeduino world, but I have assembled few megasquirt projects in the past, plus a software developer by profession, so I couldn't contain myself seeing the coding live stream session on youtube, cant wait to learn and get my hands on coding as well as assembling

TYSON project

It is a 1994 Mazda Familia 323 hatchback body with a 2.0 Ltr Mazda FE3N (4 cylinder engine) from the Mazda Mx6 coupe.
The plan is to firstly get the engine running properly on a standalone ECU (almost bought the megasquirt 3) and then turbo it at a later date.

As it relates to the Speeduino I want to buy only bear bone boards etc (and assemble myself), so far i leaning towards V0.4 version of the board, but I also see UA4C boards as well and a bit undecided which option to go (what's the advantage of either).

[Broke4speed]

Ultimately, all Speeduino-compatible boards run the exact same firmware. The hardware differs depending on the creator's design. The 0.4 boards are 'official' and are DIY-able, whereas the UA4C is a product of WTMTronics, which comes 99% assembled and built out of surface-mount components to decrease the size. If you want to build it yourself, the 0.4.3 or 0.4.4 (some SMD components) is for you.

The original Speeduino boards are the 0.3 and 0.4 versions, and everything else you see out there are designs created by end-users for the community . It all depends on what you want to get out of your Speeduino project. I started with building 0.4 boards and migrated to a pre-built unit (DIY-EFI.co.uk CORE4 board) because I wanted to make something that matched the design I had in my head. That's the beauty of Speeduino, it is completely up to you to turn it into what you want it to be. No (well, a minor few) rules .

[sawboss]

Ultimately, all Speeduino-compatible boards run the exact same firmware. The hardware differs depending on the creator's design. The 0.4 boards are 'official' and are DIY-able, whereas the UA4C is a product of WTMTronics, which comes 99% assembled and built out of surface-mount components to decrease the size. If you want to build it yourself, the 0.4.3 or 0.4.4 (some SMD components) is for you.

The original Speeduino boards are the 0.3 and 0.4 versions, and everything else you see out there are designs created by end-users for the community . It all depends on what you want to get out of your Speeduino project. I started with building 0.4 boards and migrated to a pre-built unit (DIY-EFI.co.uk CORE4 board) because I wanted to make something that matched the design I had in my head. That's the beauty of Speeduino, it is completely up to you to turn it into what you want it to be. No (well, a minor few) rules .

Thanks for your reply, its like an information overload for me right at this moment, literally couldn't sleep last night, never this excited about the prospects of where a project of this nature can take me before. Before i get too carried away tho, this is what i have so far in my cart.

• Arduino Mega 2560

• Speeduino v0.4.3 Unassembled

• BOM for the V0.4.3

If there are anything else i maybe overlooking to started please let me know. I also like the fact that i can make different PNP cases and wondering if the design for the connector was shared somewhere in our community.

N.B I followed the (no longer live) stream for Speeduino coding on Youtube and cant wait for the second one, great material.. Even though i have compiled a firmware before

[jonbill]

the instructions in the wiki on board assembly and Josh's youtube video on assembly I founs very helpful.
there isn't a default connector setup for this board, although there are quite a few threads here with connector board designs and other useful info.

[dazq]

You may need a vr conditioner unless your crank and cam triggers are hall effect.
Also you might need a stepper driver board, dependant on what sort of idle valve you have.

[sawboss]

You may need a vr conditioner unless your crank and cam triggers are hall effect.
Also you might need a stepper driver board, dependant on what sort of idle valve you have.

The CAS from all indications is a Hall sensor type and i will not need a vr conditioner.. I may be wrong is it? see with me, i am learning as i go along.

I glad you mentioned the need for a stepper driver board because i think i might need one for it, will check on that later.

[sawboss]

the instructions in the wiki on board assembly and Josh's youtube video on assembly I founs very helpful.
there isn't a default connector setup for this board, although there are quite a few threads here with connector board designs and other useful info.

Thanks definitely will be checking it out, once the instructions are clear enough, then I'm sure I will be making it